Scando

Karting can be cheap and a lot of fun. It can also be very expensive if you want to do it at the top level. My budget to run my Z in our state series for the year is less than what my karting budget for a year used to be. Only difference is that in the karts other people were paying for everything so this made it a lot cheaper I know of some karters spending over $100K in a year! So what I'm trying to say is $3K will get you a good package to have a bit of fun and be competitve at club days but if you get carried away it can get very expensive very quickly.

Thanks guys, Yep that was with the new spoiler fitted Ash. My brother took some pics of the car in action so I'll post some up soon to show you what it looks like with it fitted.

Set an new personal best for Baskerville yesterday (1:01.45), was enough to put me on pole too

I don't even want to try to imagine the hours you've spent on that. Great job! Good choice of colour too.

Mine still uses a standard oil pump and dizzy and it's been together for over 10 years and done many hill climbs and track days. I will say though that a better oil pump is on my to do list. If I can run 10psi with only shaved pistons then you should be able to run a bit more throught a F54 block and P90 head. Mine would be running higher compression because shaving the pistons doesn't take the compression down as much as a P90 head would. Also my pistons will be weaker due to having thinner crowns so I can't see why that setup wouldn't be happy running 13-14psi or even higher!

I'm pretty sure the main difference is that the Neo has a variable valve timing and lift setup, similar to the later SR20's. That price sounds good for a Neo engine if it's in good condition Add.

My car simply run a normal n/a L28 with the tops shaved off the pistons for decompresion which I think is a bit dodgey but it runs 10psi and produces 300+ hp with very good reliability. I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of getting a proper L28ET engine when most parts such as the pistons and head are going to need to be modified or replaced to produce big power anyway. Turbo, injectors, computer, etc will all have to be replaced to produce big power whether you go for an L or an RB. At the end of the day an RB conversion will probably be more cost effective and produce slightly more power in the long run. The reason I bought my car is because it is much much simpler to work on than one with an RB conversion.........And it was cheap :wink: If I was you Add I'd just do the turbo conversion on your engine you already have. Without spending massive dollars it'll produce a fair bit more power and give you truckloads of torque compared to what you have now and it'll definatly get you up those hills much quicker That's my $2 worth

Baskerville (TAS): 1:02.0 240Z, L28ET, T04, 10psi, Bridgestone Potenza RE540S, Dry Track Done a bit of work to the car since then, hope to shave about a second off the times. Should also have some times for Symmons Plains in the next month or two.

Before I put a cage in mine it used to lift the inside front wheel up to 20cm on the ground on some corners on the race track. It also used to lift one front wheel an inch or two on hard launches. Now it sits perfectly flat and I picked up over a second around our local race track. So they work VERY well, it just sucks about your registration issue. You can get away with just about anything here in tassie if you get an engineers certificate

I'm 6'1 and I fit in my 240 easy, heaps of leg room. The only thing I've had to do is redo the seat mounts lower to the floor because my helmet was hitting the roof. If he doesn't want to do track work in it then it won't be a problem. My brother who is 6'6 has also sat in the car and he fitted just fine.

The holes for the lower control arms have been re-drilled further out on the cross member, I haven't measured how far but it looks like a bit over an inch. I've just received noltec bushes to put through pretty much the whole car and I got the ones for the rear suspension arms that enable you to adjust camber and toe so I'll be able to get the -ve camber that way if I choose. What class do you run your car in?

Thanks Matt That's excellent info. The front suspension arm mounting points have been moved on my car so it has plenty of -ve camber on the front, but I'm not to sure on the actual degrees. Rear has pretty much no camber but I think I'll be lowering it a bit (has adjustable ride height) so that sould give a little -ve rear camber at the same time. I think I'll definatly try some more castor to get rid of the understeer from the locked diff, it sounds like it works well on your car. As I said, my biggest problem is keeping it straight and getting the power down off turns. The class i run we have to run semi slicks and I don't have flares or anything so I only run 15X7's. The car runs an L28 with a T04 on it so it's a fairly fine line between getting on the throttle early enough to eliminate lag, but not to early or the car's sideways and frying the tyres. I'll have to try it with no rear swaybar next time I'm at the track to see if that helps. Thanks again for your help, Shane

I'd love to put an LSD in it but the expense of an long nose R200 is too much for me to justify at the moment. I only use the car as a circuit car, it's not registered so road legality isn't an issue. The handling is far from horrible but just needs fine tuning and I'm hoping I can keep improving it without the expense of an LSD. I plan on running more castor to attempt to eliminate the understeer. Probably the hardest thing with the handling at the moment is getting the power down. I have to be very tentative as it comes onto boost on the exits or it kicks the back out big time! When I bought the car it had a standard front sway bar and a 22mm rear (probably to get it to turn in with the welded diff) I've now gone ot a 18mm rear and this helped it off the corners but it still needs improving. PZG302, I'd be interested to hear what you've done to your car to make it handle with the locker?

Thanks Zeddophile, that's what I wanted to know. Sounds like it should be exactly what my car needs. I run a welded diff so I struggle with understeer on turn in and oversteer on exit. Hopefully the front strut brace should find me some time on the track then I already have a cage in the car so the harness bar has the same effect as a rear strut brace. The cage made a massive difference to the car, I droped a second and a half off my lap times at our local track after I had it put in! Thanks again for your help

I should have explained myself better sorry. What I'm trying to find out is how the car handles differently with a strut brace. For example, did it give you more bight on turn in, better stability, less/more understeer/oversteer, etc? Thanks

A friend of mine is making a front strut brace up for me at the moment. I've had heaps of people tell me that they make the car heaps different to drive and that I "have to get one." The only thing is that nobody can tell me me how it actually effects the cars handling. All anybody can tell me is that "it makes it better." I'd be interested to find out how it changed the handling from anybody who has put one on their car.

Thanks guys, Here's a link to another forum where I've posted some more pics and the specs on the car. http://datsunownerstas.proboards79.com/index.cgi?board=memcars1&action=display&thread=1147259931

Here's my car It was all green when I bought it. It looks heaps better with the bonnet black.