Scando

Do you know much about the car? A few people have told me it was quite quick

I'll second that, some great advice in this thread. If you have your heart set on restoring a Z then the best advice I can give you is to buy a cheap daily driver for about $1K. I used to have a Datsun Sunny as a daily and it was great little car that was increadibly cheap to run. Then spend the rest of your cash on a Z to sit in the shed and restore. It'll most likely take a lot longer and cost a lot more than you can possibly imagine but the end result will be worth it. By the time you finish it there's a fair chance you'll be off your P's and won't be restricted to certain engines.

My first car I've been racing karts since I was 8 years old so I had no excuse. Was only stupidity.

You missed this one http://www.nwcctas.org.au/Ade%2034.JPG RB30ET

I like Z's and I like 180SX's......................but I don't like that :-\

I think there's photos of this car on the NWCC web site. It's a gravel rally car right? I think I saw this on the hill at Baskerville at the last round of the super series. I only saw it from a long way away but it looked pretty cool. On a side note. Probably pays not to get too specific about locations on these kind of threads. My car lives in a very secure location but others may be vulnerable to theft if the wrong person reads this.

Mine is located in the Huon Valley Other Z's I know of in the Huon Valley include this early 240Z: http://www.garagepanda.com/images/07rnd4/31.jpg It has quite a quick N/A L28 and runs in Targa C in the Super Series. The owner also has a 2+2 260Z and has just purchased a V8 powered Z (another 240Z I think but I haven't seen it yet). There's another guy from the Huon Valley who has a 260Z 2+2 and an imaculately restored 240Z with an L28 and a few other minor modifications. The effort that has gone into this car is amazing. His son also has a restored 240Z but I haven't seen this car yet. In the Hobart area I've seen a very tidy original looking 260Z 2+2 where I park my car to walk to work each day. Unfortunately it doesn't look like it's being garaged so I don't know if it'll stay that way. I've heard of a few other tidy original cars lurking in garages that don't see daylight.

My car has always had overheating issues even with a 3 core radiator. I recently had a 4 core one built from a Torana core and it made a huge difference. On an N/A L28 I think your 3 core one should be fine once flushed as long as the core is still in good condition.

Already posted that a couple of times in this thread 174rwkw when it was dynoed a while back. It's not a massive power figure but it has a heap of torque from 2,500-5,500 rpm which is what makes it quick.

Cheers, will do. It'll still be a few months away if I do upgrade the computer (currently saving for a deposit to buy a block of land) but I figure it's handy to start researching early

Matty260Z, so about $1500 just for the computer then. I would like to stick with Haltech because the F9 seems to work well, just doesn't have the features I need. There's a family here is Tas that run 2 RX7's in IP. One runs Microtech and the other runs Haltech. They reckon the Haltech is much better. The Microtech only has load points every 1,000 rpm. That doesn't give me many load points when I only rev it to 5,500 rpm! Zedman240, that'd be great if you would let me know how it goes. I'm after all the information I can get my hands on. I'm hearing you about the installation, I hate wiring! I think I'll be paying somebody to do it when I get one.

They do have an advantage over lots of other chassis in their weight distribution. They put the power to the ground exceptionally well. As for chassis flex, nothing a cage doesn't fix

haha, no probs. Thanks.

Thanks Yeah, I'm happy to do a write up but maybe leave until towards the end of the year and see if I can get the cash together to do the other modifications i want to do? At least I'll feel like it's finished then............even though I know it never will be 'finished'

What sort of price does the Haltech E6X go for? The guy that tunes it said he can get me a Microtech which will do everything I need for about $1K and that's what he likes tuning. A few people have told me the resolution on Microtech's is very poor though so I'm not sure which way to go. The car produced 174rwkw on the original engine at 10psi with 15 deg timing advance on 98 fuel. I haven't had it on the dyno with the new engine but I'm running it at 13psi with 20 deg timing advance on avgas so I'd assume it's got a bit more now. The lap times seem to suggest it does.

Cheers It's currently on engine number 3. Not any fault of the L28 though. The first one was a snapped fan belt in a race causing it to overheat and crack the block. We only had about one month to the next meeting so we built a temporary one using the old bits in another block. Unfortunately the block I got had scores in the bore. Still went just as good and I got my only round win for last season with it but the officials didn't like the big puffs of smoke on decel That's why we built the engine it has now. The Haltech F9 does the job fine for what it is but it's fuel only and fairly basic. The guy that tunes the car wants me to get something that controls ignition so he can reduce the timing advance as it comes onto boost. Then we should be able to crank up the boost a bit more and get some serious power out of it.

A sponsor sourced and paid for them for me so I can't remember exactly how much they cost but I think it was around $250-$300 for every product they make for the 240Z. That included off centre bushes for the rear contol arms for adjustable toe/camber.

I got mine through Noltec who are an Australian company.

Nope, you didn't miss anything. Definately won't be selling this car anytime soon.

I was going to leave this until the car was finished to the level I want it to be but when is a Z project ever finished So here goes I purchased the car over three years ago. At the time I had a 180B SSS sitting in the shed that I had stripped back to metal and had saved money to do an SR20DET conversion. Just as I had finished saving and was looking for an engine I spotted this 240Z in the trading post that had been built for club days and hill climbs. It already had the L28ET conversion, coilovers and a brake upgrade and all of the work had been done very well. The body and paint however was more like an afterthought but I ended up getting it for $6,500 which is about what the engine conversion on the SSS was going to cost whithout out even thinking about brakes, suspension, etc. The car how it was when I bought it Looks ok in the picture but the closer you got the worse it got. Another reason for purchasing the car was that my dad did his mechanics apprenticeship at a datsun dealership so he knows most datsuns inside out and the L series is so easy to work on compared to the later engines. So we set about fixing little bits and pieces and after a while had it ready for some track days. I bought the car with the intention of running some club days and hill climbs like it was built for but after two track days with some mates I had the bug and stripped the car out ready for a roll cage. While it was stripped we replaced the drivers side floor pan and fixed some other bits of rust and then got the car painted inside and out. Luckily my best mate is a spray painter so it cost me not much more than the materials. I didn't like the colour when I bought it but it seemed too much effort at the time to change it and it's grown on me since. Here are a few pics from just after it was painted Since then it's had a couple of different engines and gearboxes and many minor modifications. It's amazing how many little things go wrong when you turn a club car into a proper circuit car. Everything is under much more stress and gets much hotter with the longer races. We have never really tried to make the car go quicker than when I bought it. Just tried to make it more drivable and reliable and as a result have taken 3 seconds off my laps times without trying! Here are the specs as the car is now Engine -F54 block -P90 head (combustion chamber volume slightly increased, 8.2:1 CR) -Standard crank -Standard rods -CP flat top forged pistons -B grind cam -Horrible looking home made log style exhaust manifold, does the job so it's still there -T04 turbo -Turbosmart dual stage boost controller (normally set around 13psi) -Tial external wastegate with screamer pipe -4" dump pipe -3" mandrel bent exhaust -Huge custom made intercooler (I don't have any pics of this but it fills up the entire front of the car) -Turbosmart BOV -Commodore throttle body -Modified 280ZX inlet manifold -Bosch injectors (haven't been touched since i bought the car so I'm not sure on size) -Custom fuel rail -Holley Blue lift pump -Custom surge tank -Bosch main pump -Haltech F9 computer -4 core Torana radiator -High pressure/volume oil pump -Oil Cooler (currently fitting) Drivetrain -Standard 280ZX box (to be replaced with modified FJ20 box purchased from d3coy) -Button clutch -Welded R180 diff (3.9 ratio Baskerville, 3.5 ratio Symmons Plains) Suspension -Koni adjustable shocks -adjustable ride height -unsure on spring brands or rating (haven't found a reason to change them yet) -standard front bar -16mm Whiteline rear bar -Noltec bushes right through -Custom front strut brace -Relocated lower control are mounting points -Adjustable castor rods Brakes -Honda Legend ventilated front discs -Mazda RX7 series 4/5 front 4 spot Callipers -290mm ventilated rear discs (I had these given to me and I'm still trying to work out what they're off, possibly R31 GTS Sillhouette) -R32 GTS-T rear 2 spot Callipers -Wilwood proportioning valve -15/16" master cylinder Wheels & Tyres: -15 X 7 Superlites -215/50 Bridgestone Potenza RE55S Body: -6 point CAMS approved roll cage -Factory style rear wing -Not sure what the front bar is (I got the mould with the car) -Undertray from the front bar back to the radiator support Performance: -174rwkw on 10psi (old engine set-up, would have a little more than that now) -I've never ran a 1/4 mile in it but it's on my to do list -Baskerville 1:00.8003 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?18/05/2008.BASK.R8 -Symmons Plains 1:03.0700 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?01/04/2007.SYMM.Q2 That's all I can think of for now. Here are a few pics of the car in action. http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=88606&category=gallery/0805/tssrnd3&start=90 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=80898&category=gallery/0803/300308-tssr2/tssr2-G1&start=45 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=81609&category=gallery/0803/300308-tssr2/tssr2-G2&start=0 I run our state circuit racing series in a class called Targa class. It's designed for modified street cars on DOT approved tyres with very little rules on modifications as long as you don't get too close to a sports sedan. It's then split into three classes based on capacity and times (how much money you want to spend ) I run in the 2nd class (Targa B) which is mainly full of Skylines and Evos. Sounds a bit dodgey but the class structure works well and it usually draws the most entries to each round of the series. In my first season last year we had a few relaibility problems but were still very happy with 2nd for the series. This year the car has been great (touch wood) and I'm just in the lead of the series with two round wins and a third after three rounds. 2nd place is only a handful of points behind me and there's still four rounds to go. Then there's those Evo's which will be straight back into the game if we get a wet meeting or two Looking forward I'd like to move up to our Targa A class but I'll need to find around 3 seconds at Baskerville and around 6 seconds at Symmons Plains! The Targa A cars include a GT3 RS, a 200SX with a $200K+ build cost and a VS V8 supercar with the suspension changed to suit radial tyres! The modifications I hope to be able to afford so I can run Targa A are: -Better engine management (I need something that controls ignition) -Possibly a stroker engine if I can find an LD28 crank at the right price -R200 LSD -Front brake upgrade -17 X 9 wheels under ZG flares (Not sure what wheels I'll find without spending big $$$'s to do this. I would go 16 X 9 but Bridgestone don't make the RE55S to suit) Also looking to buy a block of land and build at the moment so who knows when/if this will happen. Finally here's some pics of my helmet

My car has them relocated approx 20mm up and 20mm out as you say. It has coilovers in it so I'm not sure how much lower it is than standard but it's quite low. The car works well on the track so I'd say you're about right with those measurements

I'm running the little Nissan bobtail wing too. When I put it on the car it went about half a second quicker but I also put noltec bushes through the car at the same time so I think that was what made it quicker. The only place I can feel the effect of the wing is through the sweeper on the back straight at Symmons Plains. Speed is normally 210-220 km/h through there and I can feel the back really stuck to the track and it just gives a slight push in the front. There aren't any other corners on our two tracks in Tassie that are really fast enough to feel the effect.

When I had my car dynoed it wasn't strapped down, just had wedges either side of the front wheels........It almost climbed over the wedges. Nice purchase, should give you a bit more kick in the back

I run a 16mm Whiteline rear sway bar. When I bought the car it had a 23mm rear bar to help it turn in with the welded diff but after I got the cage put in it had too much oversteer on exits. I changed to the 16mm bar and it's much more drivable now.

Go with gunmetal, should go well with the blue.