Scando

Should work fine. Make sure the clutch is aligned properly. Also, have the gearbox in a gear and try turning the output spline as you try to wriggle it in.

This is rediculously cheap! I don't think a lot of people understand all the 'extra' little bits and pieces you have to buy to complete an engine conversion. Stevo, buy it and spend the money you save on the engine conversion on a Corolla for a daily driver if you want to save fuel!

Looking good. As everybody else has said, great colour! Can't wait to see it when you get it all back together.

Pics from the weekend http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=102187&category=gallery/0807/TSSRND4&start=45 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=102219&category=gallery/0807/TSSRND4&start=90

Had a good day at round 4 of the series at Symmons Plains yesterday. Ended up 2nd for the day and the guy that is running 2nd in the series finished 3rd so I marginally extended my lead. It's still very close though. I set a new PB of 1:03.0666. A massive 0.0034 of a second quicker than my old PB Any improvements are good I suppose I was expecting to dip well into the 1:02's with the new intercooler but it wasn't to be. Three oil spills throughout the day meant there was gravel/dust on the track to cover it up for 2 of my races and even when it did clear off the conditions weren't there for quick times. So far it looks as though we've solved the cooling problems we've had in the past. For the last round it had a new intercooler and radiator and this was my first round with the oil cooler. Both the temperature and oil pressure stayed perfect all day, even when I was slip streaming other cars. I hope it stays the same later in the year when the weather gets a bit warmer. I think we had a high of about 10 degrees yesterday! That's all for now. I'll see if I can find some links to photos from the meeting over the next couple of days.

haha, cool. Should be good in all black. I'm kind of regretting doing mine green inside. Impossible to keep the floorpans clean!

I can confirm that an old L series Z can Would you mind telling us what the LD28 crank cost?

There's a guy on this forum www.datsunownerstas.com called datsunreal that has one. He's really into 240K's so he might no were there's more. Could be worth sending him a PM. So what's the plan, GT-R replica?

Looking good. All stripped out and ready for business, just the way I like it

How old is your exhaust? Could possibly be a stuffed muffler. Give each muffler a tap with something and see if it rattles then.

It happened to a guy that races a Z here in Tas and he's just had to do a complete rebuild because of it! He's installing a rev limiter now.

If everything seems to be fine then it wouldn't hurt to spray some CRC, Inox, etc around all the linkages to makes sure they're all moving freely.

That's one thing I forgot to mention. If you're using the car for track days then don't get a viscous LSD. They overheat and stop working when you punish them too hard. Make sure you get a mechanical one if you go for the LSD option.

Has the fluff been in your belly button since your last post? Would be real nice after 5 days

I can't say at the moment sorry. The guy that put me onto them runs in the Australian Sports Sedan championship. They're what he runs in his car and he said none of the guys he runs against know about them yet and he'd like to keep it that way for as long as possible. So I'm sworn to secrecy until everybody else finds out how good they are sorry. They cost $800 for a full set front and rear and are absolutly useless cold so I don't think they would be any good for the applications that most people on this forum use their cars for anyway.

I run a welded diff and it does the job ok but causes a little understeer into tight corners at times. If you go with this option then you may have to do some minor suspension adjustments to get the car to turn in. an LSD will give you the best handling but is the most expensive option.

Yep, it's all about the balance of weight front to rear. Z's are fairly well balanced out of the factory but the more weight you can shift towards the back the better. If you can't do any of the work for the engine conversion yourself then I'd say the 5-6K for the conversion (not including the cost of the engine) would be on the cheaper end of the price scale. There's a lot of work in an engine conversion and labor is very expensive these days.

A mate of my dad's built a Falcon for the salt lakes. He said there is no traction at all. Sounds like you wouldn't even break an R160 from what he said no matter how much power you were putting through it!

Is an LSD really necessary for salt lake racing though? You've got heaps of time to reach your top speed so the bit you'll loose taking off shouldn't make any difference. I'm not saying it's going to make it any easier to find the ratios you're after but there's no point spending the extra on an LSD if you don't need it for the application you're using it for. They're heavier and may actually cause a little bit of drag depending on what the pre-load is set at so it might marginally reduce your top speed compared to an open diff??? Just a thought.

Makes a bit more sense now if you're going for an L28ET because they produce a lot of torque low in the rev range. 300km/h is still a very big target! If you're going to one of the salt lakes mettings then maybe you could take a few different ratios and try different ratios each run. I'd assume you have a fair bit of time to change the diff between each run? Good luck with it

Here's the info on the car http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2662.0.html It's not a carbon bonnet. Just a normal bonnet painted black. Carbon fibre is a bit out of my price range. I didn't like the colour when I bought it either but it's grown on me since That 2+2 looks alright. Maybe a bit expensive for what it is. There's been a couple of 2+2's advertised recently for similar prices but in better condition. Stick with the original engine. They may be old but they're very reliable and easy to fix if something does go wrong. An engine conversion takes a lot of time and money.

I'm a bit cautious about slotted rotors now. Just pulled a set off the front of my car and both rotors had massive cracks and every crack started from one of the slots. Probably unlikely to get hot enough to do this on a road car but be warned. It's the first time it's happened to me but not the first time I've seen it happen. As the guys above have said good pads make a big difference. I was running EBC Yellow pads which I thought were supposed to be good but I was still getting fade. Switched to a more expensive pad and it solved the problem. They also last three times as long which means it works out cheaper anyway.

A bunch of people have said this is ONE OF the nicest 2+2's they've ever seen. Well it is THE NICEST 2+2 I've ever seen. Something about that colour hides the lines I don't normally like on the 2+2. Nice work!

I'm with you there. I did see a photo the other day that I liked though. It was an R34 GTR front on a Stagea. Thought that was pretty cool cause it's not trying to be a GTR, it's something different.

On flat ground in top gear? Probably the 3.7 it came with! haha, nice Zedman240