Scando

hehe, it's even more relaxed than Melbourne here in tas.

I think these are worth money because of their ratios not their strength. Can probably buy a new close ratio gear set for that price though?

A proper crack. I cracked both front rotors earlier in the year but they were a slotted set and every crack started in one of the slots (lots of small cracks but nothing too serious). I got a set of non-slotted rotors to try to fix the problem but DBA only make the higher grade ones as slotted rotors in the disc I'm using (Honda Legend) so I had to use the standard grade ones which it would seem aren't up to the job. I'm using PMU pads now which are brilliant! I haven't managed to make them fade yet but they're too good for the discs. I only have one more meeting to go this year and it's at Baskerville which is much easier on brakes than Symmons. I'll just get another set to get me through that then put on the 17's I got from Ben and find some bigger brakes that will fix the problem for good.

I have R32 rears but a different front conversion. I used a modified R31 calliper mount on the rear. They work very well but you may need to run a proportioning valve to get the bias right.

If I were to do mine again I would enlarge the holes in the front bar. The standard holes aren't very big and don't catch that much air. It will definately make a noticable improvement over having no ducting though. I cracked another rotor on the weekend

Pics from the weekend: Me: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=115629&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=90 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=115611&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=90 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=115719&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=180 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=115819&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=270 Mick: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=115813&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=270 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=116015&category=gallery/0811/tssr6-08&start=495

Try looking for a door handle from a 120Y. I'm pretty sure they're exactly the same part

Did a new PB for Symmons Plains on sunday with a 1:02.8576 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?09/11/2008.SYMM.Q2 First time I've been under a 1:03 and I've been soooooooo close for a long time so it's good to finally do it. Only finished 4th for the day but my main opposition in the series broke a hub early in the day so I've pretty much got the series wrapped up with a round to go. Not the way I wanted to win it but I guess I'll take it.

I'm also looking for a set. I contacted Ash and he said he doesn't have any left and his mold is getting a bit dodgey so he doesn't think he'll be making any more. Also contacted Ben and he doesn't have any in stock. Any other ideas

The hook is just a piece of steel rod (about 8-10mm diameter) heated in the middle with an oxy and then bent 180 degrees. Welded the ends to a flat peice of steel and drilled a couple of holes in it to bolt it to the car. Hope that makes sense It's plenty strong enough to tow the car with.

If you look closely on the passenger side in this pic: we made a tow hook that bolts onto the the original tow point and sticks out above the front bar on the passenger side. Could be an option?

The 4 round series the Victorian guys are talking about does sound like a great idea. I doubt I'd be able to afford to take the car over though. Damn that bit of water in between! I guess it wouldn't be too bad if you drove the car and tow vehicle onto the boat and hired a trailer over there. I've had a walk around Sandown and I reckon that would be heaps of fun. Very tight and technical.

My front bar is a different style (similar to the Adelaide Z Car one earlier in this thread) and to get it to fit properly and firmly we made a brace that goes from the little piece that the horn mounts on to the middle of the front bar. We also made braces that go from the inner guards to the bottom outer edges of the bar. This may not be necessary in most cases but the mold mine came from was a bit dodgey so it was the only way we could get it to sit right.

That looks great! What size tyres did you go for and are there any clearance issues?

Received my wheels today. Now I just have the fun job of making them fit Like everybody else has said, thanks heaps to Ben for the excellent service.

I run a Holley Blue. Only problem I've had with it was it started leaking real bad around the gasket a couple of years ago. A dodgey homemade cardboard gasket fixed the problem and has been there since.............should really do something about that! Mine is very noisy though. I think it'd drive me nuts if it was in a road car.

Nice work on still supplying them at the same price when you could have easily taken advantage of the situation with the dollar. I think a few people owe you an apology..........

lol, I love that explanation. Exactly the look I was going for with my front end.

That sounds familiar

Nice work Zedman240. Might have to try this sometime cause mine aren't exactly quick. I had a similar problem. Turned out to be the ignition switch wasn't aligned properly so when it was on the 'ON' position it was actually halfway between on and start. For all the people that have slow wipers and are lazy like me then carry some rain-x with you, it's magic stuff. Some of the guys I race against have removed their wipers cause they get in the way of your vision when you sit so low in the car and just use rain-x. It's magic stuff!

I'm not too sure about this one. I know PZG302 suggested it and I think he's a lot more switched on with car set-up than I am. Generally a softer front bar and a stiffer rear bar will reduce understeer. PZG302, is removing the rear bar something you'd suggest to fix chev z's problem or more something you find works well on Z's in general? I know I got good results going from a 22mm rear bar to a 16mm rear bar but that was to reduce oversteer not understeer. As you said, it made the car "easier to drive on throttle." Results may vary, batteries not included, please see your doctor if pain persists.

I was going to disconnect my rear bar aswell for the wet but thought I'd give it a try with just the front bar disconnected first. The car was putting the power down really well so i don't think I need to. I do run fairly soft (by race standards) springs though.

That's the one Last time I drove it in the wet it just wanted to go straight ahead at every corner with the welded diff. With the front bar disconnected it was magic.

Pics from the weekend: Me: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=112166&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=135 Mick: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=112179&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=180 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=112185&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=180 http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=112191&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=180 I had a good weekend, finished 2nd for my class and now have a decent lead in the series. Had some great races with this Evo: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=112164&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=135 And this Commodore: http://www.circlework.com.au/lightbox/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=111999&category=gallery/0809/HQNAT&start=0 Had a wet final and worked out a little setup trick to make the car work in the wet with the locked diff. Was about a second a lap quicker than any other 2wd car including the cars in the class above me

lol, I didn't say he was, I think that was hunter. That's another good point. I find changing my pressures by as little as 1 psi can make a huge difference in the longer races. See if you can find other cars running the same tyres at your next track day and ask what tyre pressures they're running. Might also be worth trying some different tyres. I run Bridgestone RE55S which wear quite well. Dunlop's are as good as you'll get but wear quickly and are expensive. Toyo's seem to be good value for money.