Scando

Well I already own a 180B SSS, an R30 Skyline and a Bluebird and have owned a sunny so i guess they have to be on the list. As far as a wish list goes, other than the obvious ones like the 432r, hakosuka, etc, I'd like: - 280ZX Turbo 2 seater tarmac rally car - 1600 with a 2.4 stroker L4 for gravel rallys - 120Y with a FJ20ET to run improved production - 1200 ute with an SR20DET for a toy - My Bluebird Wagon with a RB25/30DET for a daily driver - 720 4WD ute with VH45DETT for a tow vehicle That'll do fow now

haha, must have both been made from the same backyard special template

You can just see mine in the bottom right corner of this pic if that helps at all.

No, but I'd be interested to hear what you think if you try them. I know a guy ran some Silverstone super softs in a tarmac rally here once and was bloody quick but they didn't last long.

There yas go fellas

That's right, my cage also came with the flat pieces of metal to weld to the mounting points and make boxes out of to mount the front legs to.

haha, does Sonia know that 535i's rev to 6,500rpm or is that a secret I'm not sure which model they're off. Best to give Mick a call cause he sorced them (from the US I think?). I'm not sure how good they are. Mick did destroy one but that was when his throttle stuck on and it pulled enough revs to destroy the engine too!

I found the rules but keep forgetting to bring them to work so I can scan them and post it up. There's nothing in their that should stop either of your cars running. Best get that cage in sco-aus

Ahh, that's the difference. The Bond cages don't come with a certificate. It's up to the installer to declare that the correct materials have been used. For signing off purposes it's as if you've built the cage yourself, it's just the bars come pre-bent.

No problem at all there, anyone can weld a cage in if their welding is of a quality standard. You just have to get one of the deisgnated CAMS scruitineers/inspectors in your state to approve it BEFORE you paint it so they can have a good look at the welds. As for the door bars, have a look at the pics of my car on the first page of my members projects thread. If you angle the door bars down at the front like mine are then it's not too bad getting in and out of the car. Or is it a registration thing in Vic that you can't have door bars in a road car? The only problem is that you have to re-locate the inside door handles because this puts the bars fair in the way of them. With the seat, in my car we chopped away the original mounts and bolted it to the floor with the mounts the seat came with so the bottom of the seat is almost touching the floorpan. This was the only way I could fit properly and I'm only about 6'1". The problem is that the top of your helmet is supposed to be lower than the hoop of the cage. Not to sure about that. What do you call a kit? There are race cars all over Australia with CAMS approved Bond cages that people have welded in themselves.............including mine. They just come with the bars pre-bent from the correct steel and you have to cut them to size and weld them in.

Go the R30! I've had two of them as dailys (only cause the first one met an unfortunate end) they are incredibly reliable and pretty good on fuel. I now have a bluebird wagon just cause I wanted a wagon (plenty of room for carting Z parts around). It's nowhere near as indestructible as the R30s were. I still have my second one but it's been demoted to a paddock basher. It's now done 580,000K's of which 540,000 were done on the original engine! Back to the topic though Zedevan, I bought an early GSR turbo Lancer with a few mods a while back for a daily and got bored of it very quickly because you can't drive them on the roads the way they're supposed to be driven and it just wasn't as fun to drive as the Z. So I sold it a few months later and got the Bluebird which costs me bugger all to run and fix which gives me more spare cash to spend on racing the Z. I've also had a Datsun Sunny which was a perfect daily cause I could drive it like a race car everywhere without breaking the speed limit

haha, same I reckon that colour with a pearl of some description so it doesn't look quite as flat would look great Lurch.

I use a Monza Evo for the simple reason that it was very cheap and a perfect snug fit for my butt! most race seats are too wide for me. It's not FIA approved but that's not an issue for most racing that people will do with their Z's. It's perfect for 10 laps races on a circuit but was very uncomfortable after sitting in it for 2 days for Targa Wrest Point. I was blown away by how light Bluerat's Velo was when we put that in the passenger side. Also felt very comfy when I had a sit in it so this could be the way to go as a lot of other people like them too by the sound of it!

Mick got me one when he got his. They were $170 each I think? Although I think Mick has mine again now cause he destroyed his when his throttle jammed! I never bothered with it cause I don't rev mine hard enough.

The rounds of our series are highlighted in blue on this calendar: http://www.hobartsportingcarclub.org/events.html I'll see if I can find the rules sheet and post it up. You can enter just one round. The entry fee is normally around $200.

Yep, the only rules for our 'targa class' is that the engine block must be made of the same material and have the same configeration (ie. in line 6) as the original. You have to run on DOT approved tyres and there are a few other rules to stop the cars turning into sports sedans but it's pretty relaxed. It's the biggest class in Tassie by far and we even have a couple of guys that come over from interstate to do every round!

Nice car, will make an excellent tow vehicle for Boofs trailer

Pitty you don't live in Tassie. Your car would be perfect for the class I run in. So would Ash's car with ADR approved tyres fitted.

Welcome to the forum, good to see another Tassie member joining up. Good luck with the search.

It made a big difference to my car but that's on a circuit car with an oil cooled turbo. They're pretty simple to hook up. You need adapter block that sits under the oil flitler as 260Coupe described and some good quality hose and you well on your way. As the others have said, shouldn't be necessary on a street car though.

I've got a set of R33 calipers on the way. Apparently they're not too much different to the R32 ones but will take a slightly wider rotor. I plan to go for something along the lines of a 340x30mm rotor. I'll let you know how I go.

I wouldn't say cleaned up but got a pleasant surprise Went to the track yesterday to test the LSD and a new front end set-up with more -ve camber thanks to some offset strut tops from Bluerat. The car felt fantastic to drive but the lap times were no different. So now I'm puzzled whether we've actually made an improvement but the track wasn't quick yesterday cause there hasn't been a race meeting there in 3 months or whether the car is simply no quicker. It definately felt better though. I also destroyed 3rd gear so it looks like it's time for the FJ Turbo box I bought from d3coy. A season of racing plus Targa Wrest Point from a standard 280ZX box behind an L28ET is a fair effort though!

Maybe when yours is finished so you can take me for a run in it and show me what they're like Luckily I was at my brothers place with broadband to watch the videos otherwise it would have been an epic disappiontment!