Scando

David Clifford that took those shots is pretty handy with a camera hey! He comes to all of the rounds of our series and does a great job. I might have to stop being such a tight...... and buy some of his pics off him

I finally managed to find some pics from the first couple of rounds of the series Symmons Plains http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=252 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=324 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=520 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=748 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=2328 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=2488 Baskerville http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1079 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1103 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1127 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1209 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1291 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1425 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1475 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1501 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1521 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1571 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1769 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1789 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1847 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=2075 http://dcpgallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=2077

You probably already know this but keep an eye out here: http://www.my105.com/ Good luck with the search

I want these gone $700 with the pads or $400 without. The pads are the same type and compound as what the V8 Supercars use.

I was a bit concerned before buying my Rota's after seeing the same stuff on the net and knowing what I was going to be using them for. But I've done two race meetings with them now with no issues. At the last one I bounced the car off ripple strips pretty hard a few times and it didn't cause any damage to the wheels. I'm very happy with the quality of mine. All of the casting on the inside looks brilliant.

I reckon Dimitri and NZeder are spot on with the rear sway bar advice. Best part about that modification is it's free But like you said, best to wait until you get the LSD and adjustable RCA's and go from there. LSD's normally cause a little understeer on entry, hopefully in your case it will just reduce oversteer instead

That's been one @#%*ing quick engine conversion Peter! Even if it was performed at a workshop it's still quick. Sounds like you've found yourself a good mechanic Peter Hope the road test goes well. My bad, I know somebody that's been running it in classic so I assumed it was still legal. Now that I think of it, knowing other bits that are in his car this doesn't surprise me

I'm running 220lb/ft rears but I'm not sure what the fronts are. They were in the car when I bought it and I've never found a good reason to change them. I don't think they're much stiffer than what's in the rear though. Mine is the exact opposite with a slight bit of understeer but only into very tight corners. Through flowing corners it's fine. What sway bars are you running? Could the oversteer be caused by the half cage stiffening the rear of the car? When I had my cage put in (full cage) I had to go for a smaller rear bar because the cage stiffened the rear of the car and caused massive oversteer. 51:49 weight distribution is nice! I've never done the corner weights on mine but I doubt it would be anywhere near that good.

Thanks for the info Scrumpy. Sounds like I better start ringing around some places

You can still run it in CAMS events. You just have to apply for a log book from the department of environment through CAMS. You have to have a CAMS license and a log booked car and it is only to be used in the car that you supply the log book number for (but how would they know!). It's pretty easy to get, expecially with a 1973 car They have banned it from a lot of classes of racing now though. For most tarmac rallys you can still use it in classic classes but modern have to run on 98 pump fuel. Sorry for the thread hijack mrp69. Make sure you put some pics up when the conversion is finished

Bet you can't wait wait to have you're first drive with the RB I think the 25/30 and 26/30's are definately the way to go. There's a guy that races a 2 door R31 here in tas and the entire car has cost him around $15K to build including an RB25/30, suspension, some Harrop brakes he bought 2nd hand, etc, etc (he does pretty much everything himself and is very switched on). It produces around 300rwkw and if you saw it in action you'd believe it! I've got somewhere around 200rwkw in a car 300kg lighter and he leaves me in a straight line like I'm standing still! As far as dyno figures go...........Lets just say I don't pay too much attention to them. You never know if the dyno is calibrated correctly or how the power run has been done. But the thing to remember when you read these power figures in magazines is fuel. Some of the front runners in my class run elf at around $7 a litre! I run the avgas used in light planes. The guy that has the lap record for both tracks here in Tas for my class runs a 200SX which apparently has around 360rwkw. I heard recently that he runs the avgas used in large passenger planes that most of us can't get our hands on but I'm not sure how true that is. With this kind of fuel you can get away with much more boost and timing advance without detonation and make crazy amounts of power.

Nice Z Roastbeef. Definately looks the goods I'll look forward to hearing how it goes with the new donk. What did you have in mind for spring rates? What are you currently running? I've got the same problem with the rear toe.

At over $2K for the dash it's not for me for now either

Yeah, it does look like a good thing for the price. And if you want to get really serious you can buy a dash with a g-meter to go with it which will do full data-logging with a track map and readings for pretty much anything you can put a sensor on

Hi Dimitri, I've bought this Haltech that's just come out: http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=105&Itemid=20 It can work off the signal from the standard L28 distributor but obviously not with sequential ignition or injection. I'll just get it set-up like that for now and go from there. This computer is overkill for what I want to do now but if I do an RB conversion down the track it'll do everything I ever want to do so that's why I went for it rather than saving $500 now and then finding out I need to buy another new computer later on.

Here's some pics of the front brake upgrade as requested. Sorry for the dodgey phone pics and sorry it's taken me so long to get off my lazy butt and post these up! -The first pic is of the bracket, I know it doesn't look much but it does the job! It would be easy to make something that looked neater. -The second pick shows the hats and the assembly all bolted together in the car. -And the third pic is how it sits under the wheels. If anybody is serious about doing this conversion then I can provide more info but I don't have measurements of the brackets sorry.

I'm after enough to mix it with a V8 supercar a carrera cup car and a 200SX with 360rwkw that's rumoured to have cost in excess of $200K to build. Oh, I almost forgot the Falcon that broke the IP lap record for Bathurst at the easter meet..........from a standing start! It's probably not going to happen but there's no harm in trying I could go crazy and get a set of forged pistons?..........Already got those........... By false economy I mean for the power AND DRIVABILITY AND RELIABILITY I'm looking for I'll need: serious head work = $$$$$, RB already has a twin cam cross flow head. tuned length exhaust manifold - no room with the L series and everything has to be custom made = $$$$$ - RB has heaps of off the shelf items to choose from inlet plenum - again custom for the L series vs off the shelf items for RB then there's the problems with the excess intercooler piping causing extra lag because the inlet and exhaust are on the same side. The L28ET is an excellent engine and I've found it to be a great reliable package for a tight budget. I most likely will sitck with it simply because I can't afford to do an RB conversion at the moment but If I were to get serious about running at the front of my class then sticking with the L28ET vs an RB conversion would be a false economy.

I'm not sure if I'll go for another turbo for now or not. I've stuck with the L28 because it's been a good cheap package but if I start to spend too much on it then it's a bit of a false economy vs doing an RB25 or 25/30 conversion. I guess if I did get a good ball bearing turbo it could be used on an RB in the future if I did decide to go that way. Might have to keep an eye out for something second hand. Thanks again for your help

There's a bit of confusion over the turbo. The guy I bought the car off said it was a T04. But the flange gasket is a T03 which makes me think it's a T03 exhaust housing with a T04 compressor housing. Last weekend I was talking to the guy that actually built the turbo and he was sure it was a T04 and said it come off a Leyland bus I think the A/R ratios on the housings are 1.00 and 0.60 but who knows if this is actually what's inside! I've been reluctant to change it because it seems well suited to the engine but maybe we are loosing a bit there. Maybe something I need to look into in the future. The manifold is a custom made tube item. The design isn't ideal but there's not a lot of room to work with as you would know. The inlet manifold sitting above is a killer for any good design ideas. We think there are some small improvements that can be made within the space we have to work with and will probably be getting a new one made up shortly because it got very hot at the first round of our series this year and has slightly warped it.

Hi Sinisha So did that cam work well in the rev range I'm looking for? (3,000-6,500rpm). I remember reading in the article that you were always short shifting it on the track because it had heaps of mid-range torque which is what I'm after. Thanks very much for the info.

I'm looking into upgrading the cam in my L28ET. I want to try to get more power while keeping the good mid range torque that the car has at the moment. The turbo provides good boost from around 3,000rpm and it seems to provide it's best power to about 5,500 rpm. So I'm looking for a cam that works best from 3,000rpm and hopefully will still provide power up to around 6,500rpm. I've been searching around the web and from the information I've found I think this is something like what I'm after: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-0921 There's an old Zoom magazine with a feature article on Sinisha's car when it had the L28ET in it. From how he describes it in the article this also sounds like it would give the characteristics I'm looking for. These are the specs I've found: MSA Stage I Inlet Duration: 260 Exhaust Duration: 250 Inlet Lift: 0.460 inch Exhaust Lift: 0.440 inch MSA Stage 2 Inlet Duration: 270 Exhaust Duration: 260 Inlet Lift: 0.460 inch Exhaust Lift: 0.460 inch Sinisha's cam Inlet Duration: 270 Exhaust Duration: 256 Inlet Lift: 0.470 inch Exhaust Lift: 0.420 inch I'm currently running the factory L28ET "B" grind cam which has the following specs: Inlet Duration: 240 Exhaust Duration: 248 Inlet Lift: 0.400 inch Exhaust Lift: 0.416 inch Anyway, does anybody know any companies in Australia that do a cam for an L28ET? I'd also be interested to know what other people think I should go for? Cheers Shane

haha, trust me not to read things properly........or have a decent look at the pic...... Now that's what I'm torqueing about.............ok, sorry that was lame.

Yeah, good point, might upset the weight balance a little. I'm also not sure if 5,608,312 lb/ft will be enough torque.........Do they make a turbo version? Maybe I could make my own out of a couple of windmills.

Well that's solved the issue of the extra horsepower I need to get on the pace. Anybody know any workshops that would be keen to do this engine conversion for me?

I'd spend about $15K on a decent RB25/30 and a dog box to go with it for my current car. Then spend the other $25K on a tarmac rally spec 240Z something along the lines of what Bluerat's 'big red racer' will end up like.