RBZ 260

LOL i got the same one in white. and hoping to get my 240z transformed to look like it. Welcome to the forums.as you know theres plenty of info around and if not im sure theres a lot of us here that can help.

for racing use i have mix of ethanol with premuim. and sometimes use it on the road. only prob its hassle doing the mix. if they had 98 or 100 octane ethanol mix at the pump ill be using it. and still save 10-15c per liter. most of them are urban myths of this and that. ran ethanol 95 in a pulsar 2000 model. lot smoother and more free reving.also felt it had bit more power. all i say go ethanol as long as price reflects it.

it was on ebay few weeks ago. i had some more pics of it may have to hunt them down. fair bit of rust near the hatch hinges and around the gutters. if anyone has replaced a car roof its not a simple bolts off replace bolts on. Also from memory seal panels and dog legs have seen better days. also recall the back slam panel fairly corroded and few other wierd spots like on top of the front guards near the doors

upgrading to new 134 refrigirant usualy consist of replacing the drier reciever module with new one. replacing all the o rings and filters.. but being a real old system they don have O rings but a taper screw connection.so realy all you should need to do is to replace the reciever/drier bottle maybe new lubricant and fill it with new gas. it wont be as efficient as with old gas but it will be sufficient. the major difference lies in the condensor design. new condensors have lot smaller cores and more dense. as for fitting the 280zx to 260z may be lot more difficult than just getting the stock 260z one. i havent seen a 280zx system but assuming there could be lot of similarities between them. one way to find out compare the two and than you will know.

Im very curious what other members will reply to this. 100% it will be an aftermarket. some aftermarket ones have indicators but some dont. usualy there is a master switch somewhere to turn on the cruise control. drive the car at some speed above 40kmh and hit SET button. if its holding at the speed u can speed up by pressing the ACC button or to reduce speed press DEC (usualy thats the accronims they use) there also should be SET and RESUME button. if u press the brake the cruise should turn off to restore to previous setting press resume. or drive up to the new speed and press SET. thats if it has all operational and all of other goodies installed. send a pic of the engine bay. to see if u have the servo installed and set up correctly. other things u have to find the brain module and look out for the wiring, fuses, master switches etc..... cruise will not work if master switch isnt turned on. or if fuse is blown or if u missing any of the ecu modules. also if the servo module is not set up correctly to the throttle linkages even that it does power up and set the speed. the servo may be too loose ont he throttle linkage and therefore not able to hold the setting.

http://www.thezgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=222&highlight=sr20det The guys name is Nick and his in NSW. i believe he is also on AusZcar with same user ID. contact him for details his SR20det conversion is work of art. or he probably post on this as well. its probably an easier conversion than the RB. i have seen another Sr20det in a 240z in SA but my cd that i had the pics burnt on to died. but that wasnt as impressive as Nick's engine brakets.

lol mines bit lower at 1860 though it is early 72 model. though but this one in NZ is one clean 240z. cant believe how good condition the id plate is. good car and buy for someone thats looking for that sort of thing. i prob still preffer getting my hands dirty. to me its also great fun building them than just owning and driving. even though finacialy my way wouldnt be an advantage.

plastic chroming yeah it exsits. if u have issues getting it done near buy let me know and ill forward you the number.very reasonable prices. but you need to send it to adelaide and be without it for 2 weeks. i got the whole rear garnish on the 260z done in chrome, the surround around the air vents etc... for the rear garnish it cost me $250 to get plated including the rear number plate backlight housing. i think the vents were around $40. not cheap but can be done. though ive changed the route of the project so these things are not required and probably be for sale on ebay in near future. with chromed parts you got to be carefull with sanding otherwise u rub down to copper layer and u have one ugly looking part. only way to fix it is rechroming.

do not try to plate stainless as it wil turn out crap. stainless can be repaired and polished fairly easy. use wet rub depending how badly the scuffs are. if realy deep and bad (run your finger nail over the scratches if ur nail catches on the groove) start of with 320 or 400 and work your way up with 600, 800, 1200 and eaitehr 1500grit if u got a polishing machine like dremel or the like or finish with 2000grit if hand polishing. you can use autosol cream for initial or autosol liquid for final. or any respectable metal polish. for best results would be the proper metal polishing kit consisting of various grades of buffing pads and pastes. but you will get better than factory results with bit of hard yakka and basic equipment. mine were painted as well some with fairly deep scratches.most people will prob throw it away. used above technique as good as new. stainless and alloy trims can be repaired with bit of patience and lot of time.

you got any pics of this? (before u went to the scrubs) i got an rx4 too but the front lip that u can get for them are yuk.. realy interested to see this.

DO NOT BUY EVER XTREEM CLUTCH OR ITS DERIVATIVES. i cannot stress this enough. absolute waste of hard earned money. absolute heap of cow doo. Only one i will ever buy again is the Daikin clutch. usualy used by the OEM and mobs like Nismo etc....just look at nismo clutch and will have daikin symbol. they are bit pricey but work lot better. I have a 3000LB pressure plate (moded by hardocore performance in QLD) with Organic single plate clutch. (organic is what they call it but its actualy very similar to metal King brake pads material) In car for last 4years. with hard abuse and still no slip.cost 550 posted to Adelaide for the upgraded pressure plate. daikin only supply 2100LB pressure plate. xtreem clutch i paid 650 for for 2000LB pressure and sprung ceramic button. 6months later it was shot. absolute garbage. the car in question is a S14 200sx with few mods.with the daikin clutch installed I destroyed 1 gearbox and 1 R200 lsd Diff in it. the car was pushed and still driving very well on the daikin. still possible 3rd and 4th gear chirps after 4 years. Feel is lot heavier than stock but drivabilty is same. no gearbox shatter like with button or with ceramics.

nope nothing zero... bit disapointing having to wait for so long.

yeah it sunk i heard it hit an iceberg. our copies lost forever

thats awsome. i wish my old man was around helping me with mine. but unfortunately wasnt the case. but he has left me with the knowledge to do it by myself. he always wanted to restore an old car.so i made it my priority to do so when he passed away. now i got 2 other ones to do.because its my dream now. something about Z that i actualy like. i actualy enjoy working on them as much as driving. 260z near completion and allready cant wait to start on the 240z. good luck with the car. looking forwad to updates. reminds me where i was 3 years ago. itching to do all over again.

lol when i got my 2+2 it had the same treatment done. but then i went through all the trouble making it back to stock when i started working on it. would have been cheaper and easier if i left it as it was. oh well. i wanted a nice shiny chrome bar at the time that i paid an arm in rechroming and a leg for spent time returning it back to original. good work Rev looks million bucks. (now going to the shed finding the spaners and can of body filler ) PS: are your rear overider rubbers in any good cond? wanna sell?

till he gets the real ones here at the ones ive installed in my 2+2. realy nice seats. apperently done by recaro for mitsubishi. so they comfy but still firm. they were pain to install with mitsubishi rails but as this one is fitted to original ones its just a bolt up job. http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10205&pos=22

for the older engines im with NZeder. i use penrite or penzoil in my oldies 20W/40W 20w/50w but for modern type like the SR20DET i use Motul full synthetic 5W/40W. exy but the SR loves it. tried mobil one and absolute crap for SR. didnt like it at all. ran rough and felt like i had an anchor throw at the back of the car dragging along. with Motul change its brilliant, runs smooth and very free reving. but price tag of $65 on special kinda sucks. for the RB im using Nissan Special Blend 7.5W/30W recently tested in one of the magazines proven to be one best for the money. also its priced very well. so i can afford changing it every 5k km or less.

All i can say to that thank god some people still use their brain instead of their wallets. Clark Rubber and Fitch the rubber man (in adelaide) are my best friends LOL. everything besides the rear hatch window seal i got from them for 1/2 price than from rares or genuine nissan. bit of DIY and u cannot tell the difference. so u can pay $50 for one seal for tail light or make your self two for $10 Love your work. Rev

nato i think u still may have some stuff stuck in your ears from the bike crash. get it checked out. since u cant hear properly it has hint of skyline but not ur typical skyline sound. one the mates has a r32 and sounds noticable different expecialy idle and at full bore,only common RB sound is the turbo sucking. now is it beause of the muffler or resonator i dont know. Yeah but it is loud when the foot is pressed hard down wont argue with that one

autos are good. bit stronger they can take more abuse and are proven to be quicker down the 1/4. also good for those that are lazy and dont know how to drive manual because its too complex for them. BUT personaly i will never put one in as long as i can use my left leg. autos just bore me to death even in traffic jams. i didnt even bother trying selling my auto out of the 260z (dont think anyone will buy it anyway) straight to scrap metal yard. so it doesnt find its way into another z. who ever came up with idea for autos in sports cars should be punished by electric chair.

im happy with my rb20det . approx 11L/100km and still heaps of power to suprise the latest and greatest in V8 and turbo form and this is still in untuned form. has a great sound maybe the lenght of the pipes or something.sound bit different than ur average skyline. never looked back on the L26

i had a recent issue with fuel pumps. like Craig's it will occasionaly stop. but mine being efi that was causing few issues. my pre pump was failing (a holley blue)electric feeding a VL turbo high pressure. basicaly ran good till u boot it. than jus splatters and dies. after searching around found out that holley was still value for money so i ended up replacing it with new holley red no more issues. lot more quieter and no issues of engine splatting. looks like the bearing need to be replaced in the blue. u can get holley blue with reg for decent price. otherwise any of the repco, sprint replacement will do the trick. make sure you change all the fuel filters. when changing the fuel pump. still i think electric is more relaible than the mechanical ones and makes engines start bit easier. i had issues starting my 240z with mech pump. plumbed in my old 260 z electric and had no issues. even after sitting for few months just let the pump prime hit the key and it was running .and this still with blown head gasket.

yeah i was never a fan of the 260z rear. 240 i can live with but 260z no way. As time is against me ive only did a colour coding to make it bit different. but my rear beaver panel is modified to accomodate the future R32 rear lights conversion which is on the back burner for the time being. i did purchase a 240k rear round light combo like the above 240z but ended up selling it (for lot more than i paid) so kinda never went for it. i guess its passable.would be interesting to get the set from the 240k skyline coupe as one is larger than the other GTR style. may fill the back a bit better on the 2+2. maybe dont the line ill attempt it but for now stays as it is.

LOL love that comment. good luck with it. i like when owners get their hands dirty and work on their cars. makes the car that much more special.