RBZ 260

yeah i got mine from rare spare for the 2+2. had no issues installing it. the guy only commented that i was pissed paying $140 for it. that he could get one for $30. but only catch was i couldnt install the chrome strips back in as it didnt have the little gutter to do so. so on the end i had to get it from rares as i wanted the chrome strips back in. maybe they didnt know how to install it. the guy i used has been doing it for 30years. it was in in less than 5min.

have a look at the clutch assembly there should be a screw or some sort of fill point to the fluid. than u have to get the right fluid. to make your job easier buy a new one from repco or motortraders. delco makes them for various cars. u can prob use one from l24e r30 skyline or even from 280zx too. they would be indentical. alos u could use the later model one from r31 skyline or even the r32 etc... but lot more $$$$ i can vouch for electrics fans. lot quieter and definetly frees up the engine at the higher rev range. ive had it tested on latest adelaide heat wave. temp did not go past mid point in full traffic jam on 40C

idle bump switch these things are located in the pressure side of the steering rack. its basicaly a switch when pressurised it closes or opens and that is fed to the ecu input.Than the ecu adjust the idle slightly higher. i guess u can do that to yours to but being carby and all not sure what u can do to tell it to idle higher. than again being a v8 im sure its got plenty of torque and power on idle to run a small power steer pump. i need to extend the wires to the loom to wire this thing up. im asuming that when switch is open it tells the ecu to run bit faster idle. as currently my idle wont go bellow 950rpm. should be 800. but too slack and busy to wire it up and check it out. im more interested in squizing more power out of it at the moment LOL. to test it while car is stationary just slightly turn the steering wheel and u notice a bump in idle from ie 800rpm to 1000rpm. similar thing happens also with airconditioner. it bumps the idle up when a/c is switched on to maintain correct idle speed but thats a seperate switch and seperate input. as for the bump steer i though having power steer in eliminates it? what adjustments has to be made to get rid of it. ie toe in, camber,castor? i was thinking its doing that wondering because of crappy worn tyres. ill try and wire that PS switch up tonight and let you know how it works.

http://www.thezgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=601&highlight=power+steering there was another post with a yellow 240 with subaru rack but its pretty much like the first one the link above. you can see what ive done on my replies to original post. LOL Craig you have replied to that post too. i guess this was more of a info to SCO_AUS what is involved with such conversion.

write up? ill prob confuse ppl more LOL. yeah could do with one but i think ive done it on the other forum. ill try and dig it out and link it up. also has some pics on there too. Craig yeah that wondering is annoying thoug like i said only happends on certain roads. i remember my s14 used to do the same thing till i changed new tyres and got it re aligned it gone away. though the z has been wheel aligned 3 month ago and i havent collected any gutters yet. as for the rack yeah i did the same thing went for done and proven concept. as i tried using an rx7 one (as i had it lying around) and was total waste of time. found a rebuild subi rack got the power head rotated and new pipes made. ive cut and shut the rest of the hoses and pipes between subaru attachements and skyline ones. though probably going to enzed with the right ends and dimensions would have been better but this way was cheaper for me. as i wanted to have that idle bump switch in the line and enzed werent that helpfull doing complicated things. they are more interested in give ends and lenght of the hose and we do the rest. as for the engine mounts on the v8 craig are you using the stock L series subframe brackets or you have fabricated new ones of the chassis rails?

Craig ill say they are manual. mine came of a subaru liberty/leone and i have checked these cars in person. no electronic attachement in the power steer system to adjust the dampening. just a regular power steering pump. but i do know some cars seem to stiffen the power steering when traveling at higher speeds. maybe its mechanicaly compensated in the pump at higher revs. who knows. i know on my s14 steering get quite heavy at higher speeds. again no sensors or any electrical connections on the rack or the pump. cant say too much about twichiness so far ive only been up to 130km for very short period. for that time I didnt feel anything wierd. though when im on certain roads (truck destroyed ones) car seem to be tracking the road and kinda have to wrestle with it to keep where i want to go. also my tyres are fairly shody so im putting it at that for the time being till i get better tyres as it seems to be doing this only in industrial areas where theres lot of trucks. other roads seems good. i know that the skylines have a pressure switch inline with high pressure line to bump the idle up on the engine when car is being parked at (which i havent wired in yet LOL slack but engine seems to handle it well) i was aksed previously about what power steer pump i used and its pressure ./and that person did say that r32 skyline ones / RB30 skyline and VL have similar pressure as the subaru one and that it will be suitable pump for the rack. so far i cant complain.

yeah prob true get one thats been done. there is currently one on ebay now 260z with rb20det allready in it. buy that and transfer the engine over. sell the rest and u prob come pretty close to cheap. just dont kidd yourself thinking you need this and that. get it runing standard than start modding. sometime the elaborate ecu's massive injectors this and that ... are just plain waste of time and money for the purpose you will use the car for. RB ecu's can easily be reprogrammed to accomodate any aftermarket change. so what the point wasting 2k on a substandard ecu that wont be legal anyway.factory stuff has big $$$ spent in development. lot more than some small shed in suburbia. you find all the dirty stuff that goes around these workshops when you get to know how they operate and tricks they use. expecialy if u use to work for one

have you removed the starter motor? Have you disconnected all the cables and pipes connecting the box and the car? im also assuming you have removed the tailshaft. other than those things gearbox should just slide off. check for snagging wires and dipstick. that can cause troubles sometime. have removed few gboxes and done few conversion from auto to man. and most times a loose cable gets caught on the dipstick of the auto (best to remove it straight away). not sure what that person is refering to as compartment in the box that needs to be opened and something removed.

if you can do work yourself cheapest is conversion. sorry guys been there done that. BUT if u got to pay someone to do it than it will be bit more expensive. than again ive seen a l28 rebuild fetch 4.5k and we not talking turbos with it.a basic rebuild it wil still cost close to 2k if u paying someone. to me its same. it will cost similar,but if you go for newer engine spare parts is easier and aftermarket support is greater and cheaper. and u can have more potential afterwards. ie stock rb20det has 160kw at the flywheel. with small cheap addons that figure can jump to 220kw at the wheels. 220 at the wheels aint bad in a light car. my stock runing boost rb20det 260z 2+2 kept up to a moded late model S15. the guy was so shattered that this retro dato was stuck on is butt and couldnt shake it off. hehehe wait till i wind the wick up to 1bar and get the ecu remaped. cost of rb20det conversion front cut with bigger turbo $1300 extra parts for the engine $350 (includes gaskets, new water pump,oil pick up,oil filter and timing belt) exhaust cost me $500 (full stainless 3" with dump pipe with muffler,resonator and cat) Intercooler and piping $500 fuel pumps surge tanks $300 2 days fitting it all in hardest being cutting the sump and rotating it around. other option buy a 200zr sump at $580 new from nissan total cost to me $2950 as i did it all my self so no install charge did ask around to see what people charge. to just drop the engine in and mount it $400 plus parts parts being the sump and pickup etc..... wiring is fairly simple if using stock ec and dont see why would you go aftermarket unless going for 450hp or more but wiring of the factory ecu was 500 to 850. you have to do your homework and find best prices around for the job. also you have to trust the guys doing the job right and thats the problem i have I DONT and prob never will. than you also have to contend with their crap. "you need this and that" you have to realize they are a business and they will try to make more money out of you for unecessary bits. either way for a decent rebuild you prob looking close to 4k maybe more the carbies alone can fetch over 1k. a rb20 conversion shouldnt cost much more than that amount but you will have a more powerfull more reliable and newer engine. people wouldnt be doing them if wasnt a good option.

nissan spare parts will also have the plug. i had similar issue with my r200 lsd. though my plug was stuffed when i got it all rounded off. so i welded a wheel nut on it and removed it with break bar. BIG PAIN. but got it done.

yep nice car. that colour suits the 2+2 quite well. man i gotta get my butt in gear and finish mine on the inside.

use VIPONDS TAUTFLEX. do a google search distributed by Bristol Paints. can get any colour you want. i found that those vinyl paints from supercheap, repco etc.... waste of time. peel after few weeks on slight touch, even with the recomended cleaners and primers. i get better results with normal enamel LOL for fraction of the cost. BUT ive used Viponds on my dash and rear vinyl covers. so far so good. just needs a good clean with viponds surface cleaner and than paint it. u can thin it down with water so it doesnt affect your grain or set the spray gun correctly. u can also buy pressure packs but becomes lot more expensive.. i used general purpose thinner as it bites bit into it. though i would test it first. thinners can melt some plastic or vinyl. paint is UV stable and fairly good scratch resistant. and its OZ made. what better way to help Australian business. hope it helps.

yeah you guys get it bit easier as u can take it to the same guy over and over. and its up to their discretion what they let through. like someone said they picked on the door skin rust but not the A pillar by the same guy. hmm he must have hated datsuns and loved toyotas LOL. Though in SA we less fortunate. they go through it with detail. and we get it doen through RTA and their inspectors rotate on regular basis so you cannot get chummy with one to let you through. than again we only have to do it once to get it through and if u leave it as it is u wont have any troubles again. but who does that. one way the check the rear demister is they turn the light on on high beam and tell you to flick the rear demister on. doing this draws extra current from battery and dims the lights slightly. other way you can check if the engine is runing it will load it bit more when demister is on and the revs will slightly change. as for tint yeah its national guidline and it filtered through NSW and Vic to our state. as before we had 35 allowed on the front not anymore. i still think even you guys have it checked annualy by a nominated workshop its bit easier than going once thouroughly with RTA inspectors. inspections aint cheap,long waiting periods (2 month plus) and u almost certain to fail once. ive seen cars with 6 defect labels attached to the windscreen. its beyond me how that happend.

do an engine conversion and most hassles go away. LOL.. sorry not much of a help. i preffer cranck angle sensors and ignition modules. lot more stable. other than that if u havent got a service manual it would be good. just follow the instructions there. got me out of trouble few times. i havent played around with my l28 for long time. so bit rusty but i never had any ignition troubles.

i can prob list the things SA rules to get a car through roadworthy. though we dont have it annualy but only if car is interstate or been accident damaged or defected. but reading some of the post from other states they look very similar issues. things they look: o yeah hazzards have to work. so as any other outside lights including number plate light. other bits u may want to check Horn Rear demister Front demister Park lights seatbelts rust tinted windows (if they darker than 35 for sides and backs and darker than 70 in the front doors (very strict in SA for this) on new cars bumper is required in SA apperently its not required on some older cars but its up to the inspector (inspection done by transport authorities not by a nominated mechanic etc..) tyres, size and wear. all suspension gear including ride height and fouling on other components ie tyre clearances at full lock any oil/fuel/coolant leaks will immediately fail the inspection other than that they check the pollution gear and engine operation (no oil burners or backfiring engines) exhaust noise brake efficiency (they stick it on a brake dyno) also handbrake has to be operational. sometimes they will request wheel alignment to be done prior the inspection and a report to be submitted to them. after all that they take it for a test drive. its a full on inspection down here in SA but thank god you only do it once unless u get your car defected than all over again. depending on the state some of these arent applicable but big % is.

they look identical you cant tell the difference unless u test it or theres a part number stamped on it. if its combination sender switch you should have 2 terminals on the end of it. i dont think 240z had a low oil pressure lamp so dont think they had the 2 terminal oil sender. so the oil pressure switch and old version of the oil pressure switch would be identical in appearance. if it only has one terminal you can either use the two terminal unit and plug in the correct pin to get your guage reading. just measure the resistance. switch is either on or off. while the sender will have set resistance depending on the pressure applied. i couldnt find the values in the 240/260z manual but i had a look at the other service manuals i have. being nissan they keep most of their methodolgy the same through the years. but from r34 manual oil pressure sensor. it has 2 terminals like someone mentioned before. one pin is the oil pressure switch for your lamp. When engine off should read short circuit or close to 0 ohms. when engine started it will read high or over the range or open circuit. they do this if there is a fault on the switch or guage to automaticaly go to low and get your attention that is no pressure and to check the system Pin 2 it should read approximately 42-50 ohms when pressure is at 1bar 37-45 ohms @ 2bar 25-35 ohms @ 4bar now these values are from r34 skyline rb25det engine so values may vary slightly but it is good indicator what a oil pressure sender/ switch should do.the r34 is same for r32 and r33 and z32. other models only have oil pressure switch liek s13,S14 etc......... i know fuel senders between the s30 zeds and r32 are same value 0-90ohms but the curve obviously matches the tank. the guages are calibrated to read this. i asume they have done the same thing for oil speedo and rpm. im using a s14 spedo sensor to drive N15 pulsar speedo. though i havent checked the calibration yet. but it does read speed. thats y i love nissans and love working on them. most stuff is interchangable or using same methodology.

i prob buy the genuine from nissan one. im sure they not that expensive. i bought one recently for a 2000 pathfinder only cost me $57 trade price. dont think the L series one be much more. ill check with them as im going to pick few parts in a day or two. but i suspect its definetly a oil pressure switch and not a sender.

hmm probably higher premuim for me cause prob of age (dont believe it as im 30) or becuse of the modifications and turbocharged engine and therefore a higher risk car. still 16k will cover my cost of the car and mods it cost me prob around 12k. so im kinda happy. im paying similar amount for my s14 for full insurance through another company. shannons couldnt match it to give me a multiple policy discount. so i only got the z with them. than again i told shannons exactly whats on the s14 and neglected to mention few things to the other one. hence the price difference. had a claim with the s14 and no problems nobody complained about those extra bits that i didnt mention.

yeah i agree with PZG302. the striping is defiently a ripoff from ford torino but that aint a ford torino. geez now i feel realy old and im only 30 thanks chris240.

it almost sounds like oil pressure switch than oil pressure sender. if you have a multimeter disconnect the gauge and connect the multimeter in ohms range. check the values when engine off and when u start it and recheck when warm etc.... if you have realy high or almost a short when its off and reverses when you turn the engine on it wil indicate that its a oil pressure switch and not a sender. sender will give you a value which would be consitant to the oil pressure. in service manual it probably has the values when checking oil pressure senders. if u have an air compressor you could dial the relevant pressures and check the resistance again verifiying against service manual values. if all that fails check some of the wiring from sender to gauge makes sure they are not shorted to something else. after that check the gauge itself. again this could be done with a multimeter and a variable resistor (suitable value) and a 12V power supply. you could do it in the car but you have to disconnect the sender from the circuit. u install the variable resistor accross the terminals where the pressure sender would have been. vary the pot and you should see the needle move. again setting the right resitance and checking it against service manual values should give you indication what is malfunctioning. though ill first check if the oil sender is a sender and not a switch.

ive been told by 3 rb nuters that my big end was in trouble. except one mate that drove the car said that its not. i even drained the oil flushed the engine checked oil pressure (not that accurately but close enough) and all checked to be ok. besides that annoying knock. though the 3 rb nuters also told me it could be the belt tensioner and idler too. but it sounded lot lower than where these items are. apperently if u load the engine heavily ie: take off in higher gear ie 2nd or 3rd and if its the big end you will be able to hear it quite badly. drain your oil and if u dont see any brass metalic in your oil than should be good.

your local nissan dealer spare parts. if you want genuine part. otherwise try repco, sprints supercheap auto etc......

for my moded 260z 2+2 agreed value without looking at the car 16K but my premium is close to 500 and thats on limited usage. once or twice a week. for everyday closer to 650. through shannons. 3rd party fire and theft was $270 p year. are you guys on limited or even extra limited usage to get those premiums?

lol i had the similar issue few weeks ago on my rb20det. since the conversion it was runing silent as. than suddenly this ticking knocking sound coming from the front of the engine. but lot lower near the sump area. i asked around and got pretty bad news :ie my big end bearings are gone and need replacing etc... couldnt come in terms with it i started to pin point the frequency and location of the noise. closes i got it wasnt the valves/cam and top end but defiently low in the engine closer to the left hand side of the car. if u listen under the car its very annoying. when cold it was quiet maybe one or two hard knock and silence. than when warms up sounds like an old magna. the more revs the more annoying ticks. not sure what else u have on your engine but in my case the ticking noise was from idler pulley bearing on the air/con compressor. found out by removing all the belts and startign the engine without it. from then onwards never heard a single knock since LOL (sound like a ultra tune commercial) i would start looking and disabling the easy things before ripping the motor appart. i been told by proffesional that he guaranties its the big end bearing. well that tell you about it try anything first before spending big money relying on pros to tell you whats wrong with your car. if you dont have a/c or any of these pulleys probably check the idler pulley and tensioner bearings on your timing belt. apperently they do similar noises when gone bad.

well the bits and pieces are not hard to find. though my r32 gauge cluster came with the front cut and i bought a n15 s2 cluster of ebay for a different reason but than changed my mind and it came quite handy for the speedo. with bit of trimming it will just fit in the 260z housing. hardest thing is finding out on the clusters what each wire does. which you do by tracing the tracks back to tthe connector which has abreviations to what pin is what. Ie: IGN , BAT, GND , TM=tempereature meter signal, OM= oil meter signal, etc.... but to run these u have to have relevant sensors. ie TM is identical throught the range of nissan cars including the old ones.so its as easy as wiring your, ign, gnd and a wire from your temp sensor. ive incorporated a warning led on all the guages with led backlight. this is even more fidley and you need a custom pcb made up. but if you not interested in fancy stuff it could be easily moded to fit in the factory housing. if you need help on these just drop me a line and ill explain in more detail the bits you may need and where to get them from. though knowing basic electronics and good with soldering iron you have no issues. if you can wire in a cd player (not twisting the wires together and taping it with electricaltape, but soldering it properly and using heatshrink to insulate) you be ok. just lot more fidlier than wiring 10wires to the deck.