RBZ 260

backfires and risk of catching fire expecialy when pushed. power loss unless going for injected type system. which also reduces the risk of backfires etc..... cost more you can get spare wheel mounted tanks but again its small and you still have to fit the spare. you could remove the original tank and install low profile lpg tanks. again having a thirsty v8 youll have frequent gas refils. i used to work for a company for 5 year that made LPG gear for cars know fair bit of ins and outs. rumor is that lpg has more octane which is true. but to get advantage of that engine has to be made for dedicated lpg only. with all relevant mods. i owned 4 lpg powered cars still got one. even a dual fuel v8. power loss is still greater than the 15c you may save per liter. its almost false economy. lpg is good for people to get from a to b and not worried about the power loss. ie taxis and buses and to save that extra 15c.

im getting it as well.when is the cut of period for subscription if there is any?got to wait few days for my paypal account to get all sorted out.

I use wanli or sumitomo. wanli cheap malaysian tyre almost last forever ,looks good ,grip well in wet not that good in dry with powerfull engine. Sumitomo Japanese tyre grips very well not bad on price fairly cheap for japanese tyres and they not bad on the wear too. fitted to pulsar done 20k and very minimal wear on them. though they dont look that crash hot. than again its a pulsar LOL. but i was amazed with the grip and wear. prob is not many tyre places can get them.

yeah got soft rubber mounts mounted on the original fuel bracket.but still annoying. i dont want to hear the pump at all . just me being picky i may try to mount it ont the bar. as thats mounted on a rubber too. so may get rid of the rest. thanks for the pointer. if doesnt work as i expected there will be holley blue for sale soon otherwise i just may use vl turbo fuel setup. i allready have the high pressure pump from a VL turbo may get the pre pump as well.

well my suspension guy wasnt there he left early and their check out guy was bloody hopeless. ended up buying a subaru bush and 240z bush and was going to join them somwhow and hopefully fix the problem. started undoing the clamps and trying to replace the bush. as i removed the two bolts something fell out. a spacer that i installed for some reason to lift the bracket. i cant recall now why i did it but i think from the heat and limited pressure on the rack just worked itself loose. i removed the spacers and tightened the clamp back on. this time it had lot of pressure on it and rack did not move. the dead band was gone. steering response was lot better and did not feel like a truck. took it to the roughest roads at higher speeds and it was stable as. no more wrestling with it keeping it in line. lot nicer to drive now than before. lot more direct and more solid feel steering. now to replace the tranny mount, get the tailshaft balanced and replace that damn loud Holley blue pre pump.

what was the end price of that colt? i cant access the ebay listing anymore but i thought i recalled the guy said only one in OZ. i can say there is at least 2 in OZ. ive seen one this morning bit rough and a female driving it. still had JDM fender mirrors. etc.... looks ok got bit of potential. bit like an RX4 coupe but not as nice. o well if there is one here and one there im sure that there few more around. just we never look that close at one.

looks sweet

yeah 240 may be a bit of a pain. depending how far the glass can be droped. if it can than its just a matter of finding a compact actuator. most prob from power window one. i had a look at my 2+2 for that pillar less look but decided not to go for it too much stuffing around. prob easier than 240z.

found out what is the issue with the bump steer. I had a look at the angles and they pretty much perfect. last nite had a bit of a look and clean up around the engine just to see what else i have to do on it. grabbed the steering rod just after the firewall and gave it a bit of a tug. to my shock it was fairly loose. started to jitter the steering wheel and had approx 0.5cm movement. that explains the feathering on the outer of the wheels also bit of the dead band in the steering wheel when changing direcetions. even though alignement is good. dosnt pull where the road is flat. tried tightening the clamps but they were allready done to max. looks like my custom bush got softer and has heaps of movement. going to get some nolathane type mounts but not sure which ones as the z ones are round while the rack is square. i wonder if someone knows what other people used. im going to go to my supsension/ steering guy after work today hopefully have something to sort me out.

i got to revisit my tail shaft and trany mount. too many vibrations at higher speeds. at low rpm i can feel it through the body fairly solid tranny mount. but when higher speeds the tailshaft takes over. anything over 120 its pretty bad. i wonder if your old one will suit my car LOL. even if its slightly bent i think its lot better than my current one. good that you got it all sorted out.

doesnt suprise me why japs build and design cars for yank market. just look at the sales figures. thats crazy. way more than almost all others put together. interesting in oz that 3481 total of 240 and 260z 2 seater and 2416 for 2+2.and minus a lot of 2+2 that gave life to the 2 seaters hmm maybe one day the 2+2 would be rarest LOL... also the rarest of them all in OZ is the 77 260 2 seater. so James (JP) you got one of the rarest s30 in OZ. LOL

my 240z came with fiberglass headlight cones.not sure if aftermarket ones or of the early series 1. could be the factory ones as this 240z also has series one hatch and vertical demister. at some stage it was banged up and a series one gave life to this early 72. i think a guy in SA has some moulds but he hasnt been active on the forum for a while.

well here i got to wait till the drag strip gets opened. its been out of comission for some years now. Apperently Bob Jane T marts owns the site and they dont want to upgrade to ANDRA specifications. Apperently ANDRA was ment to Lease the site and upgrade it but bob jane kinda failed to give them the site where water is situated and wants another lease for them to access water supply. pretty sneaky i say so now long ass court battle and our drag strip is closed it was on ACA the other nite saying that government should step in and get the site redone to reduce the influx of so called "HOON" drivers/racers off the streets. took them a while but this way they get more money by means of fines and defects. as soon as it opens ill be there chasing to get into low 12s

best person to contact about that is James aka JP on this forum. he is from Vic as well and he knows most ins and outs for the engineering of the rb25det in a 260Z. prob can give you a good idea what it will cost to get it engineered. in SA cost is from 1.5k to 2.5k depending what mods you need/have and if some tests need redoing.

ive got few km/h faceplates as i re did my guages and all i wanted is the housings (all the electronic/mechanicals have been removed and replaced with new type. so i got 2 or 3 km/h internal mechanisms. i can prob take it all appart and take a scan of the face plate so you have the right scale. or if u want the complete cluster not sure what postage will cost to Canada but i can send you if u cover the postage and handling for the complete mechanism (no housings as i still need that) than all you have to do is use your white face and install the oz km/h mechanism in your mph housing and you ready to go. shouldnt need any calibration. nice white face conversion by the way. i did a few in my time back in 1996 and still do odd one now and than. I also changed mine to white on my 260z check my gallery or link bellow. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,1657.0.html

mate if i didnt have 6cars in the garage i would have consider it. ill ask around one of my mates he may be interested than again he has 3 zeds allready and array of other cars. try advertising on silvia aus, skylines down under, autospeed, calais.com etc... for that price you prob get someone that is not into zeds be in one. just sell it well as in: lot lighter than skyline with same engine. better handling than silvia etc.... plus its cool and very different etc........ plus value will go up and not down as its classic. etc..... tell them bit about history of 240z and 260z and hopefully the z bug will bite. good luck i hope the car goes to good hands and gets finished as it was dreamt up to be a nice quick classic.

thats exy for gbox mount. i enquired about diff mount and it was around $90 and i thought it was a murder for that price. ill ask the guys i deal with see what price i get. i did see rare spares have a trany mount genuine nissan one but i cannot recall the price

mine is blue but price would be way out of your price range :'( (did i just offer my z for sale slap naughty naughty i guess anything is for sale for the right money ay) good luck for the hunting that right z. there are few on carsales and few "good" ones do pop up on ebay.

that sux, we had our pulsar advertised now for 2 weeks no one even bothered to call. sorry actualy one guy did but we were away for easter break and he never called back. obviusly was a time waster. unlike your car this one looses value the older it gets. :'(

those pics must be old. the interior pic still shows MPH speedo. (as far as i can tell) maybe the pics are 15 yrs old and not current representation of the car which sux cause its time wasting for the buyer. DEUS havent you sold yours yet? didnt you get a depo for it?

hmm maybe different supplier/ rare spares. the guys in adelaide are ok but prices are bit on the high. but service is not so bad so i guess u do get something in return.

u can also get a kit from jaycar/dicksmith that u can rig up to read from factory temp sensor and turn the fans on and off at preset values. saves you sticking a probe in the hose and hoping it doesnt leak. i did get 2x12' fans mated through the R32 skyline turbo radiator. i know people dont like having bolts through the radiators but with nylon spacers surounding the bolt stops the vibration and rubbing of the cores. its common thing to do even of factory specs. just check some of the condensor fans and radiators they use through the core setup. its not ideal but it will do for now. if comming to SA go visit U pull it wreckers both locations sometimes they havve zeds but there is for sure few l24e skylines and few 280zx. cheap prices. otherwise just visit mototraders or sprints for new one. prob wont hurt to go to nissan and ask there too. it will be lot more $$$ but it will be genuine.

heheh same here i got few in my garage. different specs and colours. sure its a lot of fun with slightly moded engine (exhaust and filter) and traction controll off and huge gripy tyres. gives the ferraries run for their money. the rb26dett transplant definetly needs traction on. does good ringies too without paying for tyre replacemnt. having a real 432 or 432R well hope you in the market for very expensive car. last time i heard 432 got sold (not 432R) was close to 200k and japanese will not let it leave japan. like said previously was a private sale and its in a close group of owners that cars exhange hands. not many outsiders get a chance to buy one. ive read this somewher eon the net about two years or so when i was searching for info on the s30 engine and 432R.

do you own a petrol station and get free fuel go for the LS1. but if u still want to save the planet and destroy a ls1 powered commodore go for sr20. be lot quicker on the twisty stuff as it weighs half the ls1.