RBZ 260

i can probably look the other way when it comes to other things. but when it comes to cars and expecialy nice ones i get furious. i personaly worked hard on that door making it perfect spent hours and hours and than this low life F#@ked it up in matter of few seconds. it just drives you insane. it makes it that much harder to get over when u did the work your self. because you know what you have to go through to make it perfect again. I know Rev said thank god for this and that and the car is still there and can get fixed. Problem is its going to happend again and most probably by same tosser. the damage is not big enough for insurance but big enough to annoy the hell out of me. if i can only bust them ill drive their screwdriver through their hand and than hammer every finger till theres no bone left. probably slowly and painfully as much time as i spent fixing that door. I made the car safe and im pretty sure it will not leave the spot i parked it in. but it doesnt guarantee that it will be in same condition i left it in. if people were allowed to take revenge on these low lifes there wouldnt be so many in first place. To me god help them if i bust them.

i was thinking this state divisions is only for the meets and cruises that happen in that state to be kinda brought to all on one global site. also other states get to see how the z community is doing in their local state.

yeah that looks like good cheap monitoring i will look into that.thanks. my manager is a classic car nut and he brings his mg as daily. so he got bit concerned of the news that mine got attacked. door locks will be deleted. im not too fussed about the concourse people. its my car and dont plan to sell it so i want it how it suits me. just sucks that theres is so much low life scumbags that will not work hard to get what they want but go easy way and steal someone elses hard work. thats the problem with this country crooks have more rights than people who defend their property.

well i got a Rb20det in my 260z 2+2. few bolt on mods like bigger turbo exhaust and intercooler. boost is at around 12psi. my diff is fairly short 4.4 so im not using the engine properly. though still it will keep up with a gen4 v8 commondoore from rolling start of 80kmh. had few runs against wrx and of the line even the mighty wrx cant come close. also few against r32 and s15 and every time the 260z keeps its nose way in front. petrol wise as its my daily car its approx 12Lper/100km if you drive reasonably. if bit heavy footed can go over 15L. RB20dets like to be reved unlike the rb25 i found bit lazy. off boost yeah bit slooow but just build the revs up and drop the clutch and hold on i also own a l28 240z with twin su with extractors etc..... it moves fairly good but it lacks the massive turbo push at higher rpm that the 260z has. fuel dont bother asking. more like a 8L v8 LOL. for a daily driver i wouldnt go past the sr20det. I owned this motor for 12 years in my s14a. still original turbo and no engine trouble what so ever. ran 1bar (15psi ) boost most of its life. destroyed 3 gearboxes, 4 clutches and 1 diff. still doesnt miss a beat. it suprised and beat cars 3 times its capacity with ease.and best of all it will give you 10l per 100km with few heavy right foots. in a lighter 240z shell it will only be better than when its in s14. also these are fairly easy to fit into a zed without too many mods. which is good if you want to return it to original specs later down the track. when time come for my 240 to get a facelift i think the sr20det is going to reside in its engine bay.

yeah ill put my hand up for this Gav if no one else did.

yeah i know lucky i still got it but that doesnt suprise me cause only way that car will be moved without the correct procedure and the remote is on a flat bed truck. the immobiliser is my own custom job and its a complete nitemare to get through even for me. its the damage the wankers leave that pisses me off. now im thinking getting the whole car live. having a high voltage coil pack pulsing every few mseconds. so next time they touch it they get a nasty sting. feel sorry for parking inspectors but still wouldnt mind catchin the bastard and smashing his every finger with a hammer. so he never tries it again.

erm some low life scumbag tried flogging my car last friday. the car is parked at my work in a busy carpark that i can see through my office window and still tried to steal it. though the bastard didnt get in (screwdriver job doesnt work on z as well as on commondoors) but he did manage to make a mess out of my lock and door. now im going to remove the locks and weld the holes. wont stop them getting in but at least it will stop them damaging the panels. god help them if i bust them. he wont have any hands to even eat with and not try steal another car.

if u want genuine replacements you either get it of another z or buy new from nissan. though very expensive. depending on bolt and type you could be paying up to $20 per bolt. i used mob called Universal Fasteners. i think the National Company. though they have all the high tensile and correct thread but the head design is non automotive. though i used hex head stainless steel to bolt my guards and all other visible bolts. also Repco , supercheap, sprints autobarn have a selection of fairly good automotive fasteners but they are bit pricey. as for rubber i think clarks is good and there is another mob in victoria that specialises in old automotive rubber. i did stumble accross it at one stage. IF in Adelaide or SA guys at Fitch The Rubber man has good selection to do most of your car. Also some specialised rubbers can be still purchased from nissan for a reasonable price. like the rubber diffuser near the top of the doors.and window frame.

ive noticed that if u use japanese branded mufflers the sound is absolutely sweet without resonating its butt off. though they usualy use one big resonator (muffler style) followed by a decent size muffler at the back. very quiet with nice bite on the end. other brand but it is $$$ is Remus. sound brilliant. on NA applications you shouldnt use straight through design. way too loud. on turbo bigger the better and no baffles. also stainless steel pipes makes the car sound different and less resonance not to mention longer lasting. since you have 2" prob there is no point going to 2.25" unless u going to change the front end again down the track. it wouldnt hurt maybe just little bit louder. on my 240z i got extractors 2.25 with press bent 2.25 pipes with one small muffler with (not straight through) way loud. though sounds tuff when pedal is mashed down. being press bent the diameter is more close to 2" on the bends.definetly needs another resonator or small muffler.

the little pull leaver on each side under each side vent opens a flap for fresh air to come to your feet.they are mounted high near each kick panel. they are the ones from the front of the bonnet. in the airbox fresh air is than sucked by the fan and than forced elsewhere. in turn that air can be either further cooled by ac if equiped or heated up by the heater core. in another words gives steady temperature controlled fresh air to the occupants on long trips otherwise they all pass out from lack of oxygen in the car.

interesting pitty its a pc based game. ive shut the doors on PC as gaming machine. you cannot keep up with updates of the hardware to run the latest games. so now im strictly consoles. be interesting to see if that will run on my PC at a reasonable FPS.

i think even the second boat sunk and they waiting for the turtles from bottom of the ocean to deliver it to our doors. Anyone got their issue yet besides the few lucky ones above? shouldnt issue #2 be out soon in US.

Yeah i think that will be available soon on the consoles. i think the story line is very similar to the Import Tuner. have seen previews of the arcade of that game and cant wait till it filters down to the consoles. but for that "real feel" i think Forza 2 will keep people amused for long time.

Im not sure how many of you guys play the latest video games. but i thought i give you few heads up on the ones that feature the S30 Z. this is on xbox 360. if u like simulation racing and want to modify a fairlady z 432 and 432R than get your hands on Forza motorsports 2. u can modify the s20 motor or do a transplant to a sr20det or rb26dett and then modify them further. also 4wd system too. now how about all wheel drive 750hp 800kg S30 and race against the like of ferrari and porsche. Also you can unlock and race the Nismo Z33 350z and the GT race cars from Japan. but it is very dfficult game but once mastered its great fun for more arcade feel street racing you cannot go past Import Tuner Challenges. though there are few s30 in the game but you can only acquire a Wangan midnight looking beast at the end of the game. very detailed graphics with visual comformation of the mods. ie engine bay. you can actualy see the filters and turbos increasing in size.theres also a Z32 and Z33 you can modify too. this is later version of the old game Tokyo Midnight challenge and Tokyo Extreem Challenge on PS2. Basicaly u drive through the streets of Tokyo looking for racers to race after you high beam them. Other games are Grand Turismo Series on PS1 and PS2 also Forza on old Xbox all have our beloved S30 Fairlady Z that u can modify and thrash without going bankrupt. Grand turismo also has the 280zx z31 300zx, Z32 and Z33.

As most of us at some stage have heard and experienced the clonkin at the back of our Z. usual culprits are front diff mount, stretched diff strap, worn universals etc.... since i got my car on the road. on and off i get this clonking at the back when changing gears or accelerating/deaccelerating. i did have an old diff mount and made my custom diff strap. that was fine for few days but unbalanced tailshaft made a bit of a mess. my diff strap wasnt heavy duty enough and slightly stretched the 10mm thick metal strap with nolathane bush. this was revisited and the metal strap was reinforced with 15mm sqare rod and heavily welded. the nolathane bush showed some stress marks so it was replaced with a softer but lot larger rubber item. and it was compressed in. after tailshaft was rebalanced it was good for about a day and than the damn clonking came back. this is with brand new heavy duty diff mount. checking the diff strap it was solidly pressed on to the diff and the diff mount showed no stress marks. it wasnt he universals as they all just been redone with the tailshaft. as i got CVs at the back they didnt clonk either. on the end i come to terms it was the diff and exessive backlash. which again check didnt seem out of ordinary. so i drove the car for next few weeks (prob 2 months or so) and the clonking was still there and very annoying. it was till this weekend when my handbrake failed that ive stumbled accros the clonking culprit. as the car was on the stands getting the handbrake fixed i had a recheck on all the diff components. to my suprise as i lifted back of the diff up it started to make that clonking sound. checked the two main nuts that bolt the diff to mustache bar and they were very loose. after retightening it with bit of loctite and a test drive like expected the clonking was gone. so prob pays to check every nut and bolt before paying good money for parts you probably didnt need in first place.

more pics

That must be an old add. cause this is what that car looked like few months ago (Mid Jan this year) at Sydney Damaged car auctions. cause those pics that are on that add are the ones ive dowloaded few years ago of the net from the guys website. At the auctions it fetched $3800 + auction fees and charges i think another 6.6% on top of sale price. still cheap if i was living in sydney.my mate was trying to get it but kept getting outbidded. somebody else knew what they were worth while we were looking for a bargain LOL...

yeah most parts were from the f430 spider kit with another one mixed in. first time in about 6 months a had a weekend to myself relaxing in the riverland. so i thought ill have a go at it. it was too cold for water skiing. also wanted to take the 260z for a bit of a road trip. so it all kinda fell into its place. even though im booked out for next 6 month. i just needed the break from the rat race everyday. i can say this its bit easier to manage than the real thing. plus your hands are lot cleaner afterwards thanks guys for the comments. it still needs improvments and finishing.it will tako some more time as i need to find more pieces.

well being probably one my most favourite toys as a kid i decided to make a 240z model out of lego pieces. i had some old lying around and bought few recently to set me off to this quest. this was my first attempt at it. still not finished as i ran out of pieces. also some extensions are necessary to improve overall proportions. though i still need to source some more lego so if someone has stashed somewhere and not longer needing it let me know. im planing to build lot larger scale out of technics with piston engine suspension etc.. but still collecting bits and pieces. so any old techincs or normal lego will help me. here are the pics. its approximatrely 30cm long 10cm wide and about 10cm high. has a electric motor so it can go forwards and backwards. due to this the seats had to be positioned lot more forward. but may remove the electrics and have a normal rolling model.

This is so true. heard of it and seen it. in particular at the dyno shootouts u can notice the fudges. anyway hence i dont trust any of them. been in the industry far too long and seen all the crap that has been going around. hence my car never sees dynos anymore. check it against all the stuff i got and if it feel and sounds good its good. i know of cars that had aperently 50kw at the wheels more than my car but i still fly past them. hmm strange i thought more power = faster at least in straight line. only time i trust a dyno is if i own one and know how to use it. if u making an extension make some room for a dyno

RB20/25/30 conversion have been done numerous times and explained on this forum and others. its almost an old hat. SR20DET is even easier than RB. only hard bit is making the engine brackets and positioning the motor correctly. in both cases tailshaft has to be made/modified/shortened etc...... also in both cases you have to plumb in the intercooler piping. on this forum alone i think theres about 5 different ways of doing this. Fuel pump has to be replaced with high pressure high flow. being a carby fuel tank there arent any baffles inside. so u have to have a lift pump and also recomended a surge tank. other option is a custom fuel tank with internal pump. in the RB20/25/30 case first thing you have to do is get the sump rotated so the bowl sits at the back of the engine. few ways of doing this. 1. buy a 200zr Z31 fairlady Z sump and oil pick up. and fit it. cost about $650 new from nissan. 2. cut and rotate weld the sump back. still need the 200zr oil pick up. also need to slightly bend it to fit correctly. 3. Rb30 sump out of GQ patrol. the extension tank of the sump needs to be removed due to low clearance issues. again the oil pick up is needed. once that is sorted out than you can start thinking about mounting it. again theres more than one way of doing this 1. this is what i did to my RB20DET into a 260z 2+2. Used factory R32 mounts and brackets. sloted the factory x member to replicate similar setup as on R32 cross member. also u can level the engine lot easier. pretty much than the whole thing bolts up. the factory gearbox mount /bracket will align up to the 260Z tranny bracket and mounts. only issues with this engine sits bit forward. not more than L series engines. so ive redrilled new holes both on the brackets as far backwards as possible. both the engine holes and engine mount. this pushed the engine backwards about 1' or 25.4mm. by doing this the tranny mount no longer aligns up. than you have to make a custom trany mount. or reposition the z tranny bracket by the right amount. 2. buy a kit from a shop with engine brackets and mounts. than again im not sure where these kits position the engine and if you need to reposition the tranny bracket. On the tunnel due to RB box stick position being lot closer to the engine u have to remove the extra plate that is spot welded on the tunnel. to further help with this issues u could use SR20det stick housing and shift block. that pushes the stick back by another 15mm or so. alternatively could get those ebay short shift kits that have the housing together with the stick. but you steel need to buy the extended shift block from nissan. i think i pretty much said all what need to be done mechanicaly to convert to RB SR. again with SR being a 4cyl theres ample room in front for V setups for intercooler/ radiator. after that is the wiring issues. there are few tricks and tips when using factory wiring of the engines to factory wiring of the car. one particular issue will cause nitemares but its so simple. and catches most ppl out. more on that next time. than dont forget the brakes. they need to be looked at otherwise you be using cars infront or fences to slow you down.

this aint a bad deal. either way you look at it. for those thinking of RB conversion this is a steal. instant road weapon over the weekend. pitty its wrong timing for me i would have snapped this for my 240.

ill have to start parking cars on the roof of the house. LOL 7 cars at the moment is enough. need to get rid of some first to. but thinking about selling cars and crap you get just aint worth it. i will be be looking at getting another one some time down the track but it will be a while (definetly another 2 seater or 280zx 2 seater) .BUT have to fix lot of them by the time that happens.

mate i wish your car fetches 10k not 5k. these cars deserve that. (not to mention to people that own them gives them a nice smile that their toys are actualy increasing in value). Like JP240z said. this is not for the beginer home restorer job but for someone who knows what they are doing. i paid 2k for mine ( 2yrs ago) its a early 72 nowhere near as low number as yours. no matching numbers but with l28 and two defect stickers. but most parts are there (and some very rare parts on it too) and as typical Z has rust in usual places. some spots are better than others etc... so the price you asking is quite reasonable and fair for a matching number car. this car should be bought by someone who knows what they doing to bring it back to former glory that it was some 38 years ago. and not to be tried out by someone that never seen a spanner and than when things get hard being disposed off in pieces. that will hurt me more. Good luck with the sale.

thats the one. can someone recall what it fetched on ebay?