RBZ 260

nah u not blind i didnt put it up yet.as thats just a plug in to the wiring no modding. my dash is still out but i just gone out and powered it up and took a pic with all the mess around it.i asumed ppl know what r32 climate control looks like. me wrong. sorry. all that in 45C deg in the shed :roll: there is a front bezel as well but cant remember where i put it "somewhere safe" (even from me :lol: )

Hey guys sorry for raiding the forum.bit bored u know last days at work before xmass just cant be bothered workin so as the rest of the boys and gals here. just though to share this mod that i did. will get gav to load up a video of the thing working. but i have to convert it to mpeg or wma first as its 3gp. hopefully pictures will be enough what was done. some pics taken from the spare air con box as it was easier to picture than when installed (just cant see it from other stuff) few good hours working on it but now i can ditch those rusty ugly air con control's and have a digital soft touch climate control and i think i shaved at least 1kg from ditching the original stuff out and installing the electronic stuff. r32 climate control has few cool features :wink: if u think they are. if u hold the cold button for few seconds the display shows "FC" and the whole thing readjust to give max cooling U can interpert the "FC" few ways but i think the Japs would have made it to stand for FULL COLD or I like it F@#%NG COLD same thing happens when on max heat and hold the heat button down for few seconds than appears "FH" :lol: so anyone with r32 out there try it out. i found this by accident by moving the temp setting and talking on mobile.held the button too long and than the fan started screaming full blast. things happen when u least expected. looking back its quite easy to do all u need is r32 complete a/c unit to raid :twisted: though there are some neat trick done as keen eyes will notice what has been done to the fresh and recycle flap.

yeah im like you i dont like the 260z rear lights. just doesnt cut it. i even chromed the complete rear garnish to give it bit better but still not happy. i did get 2 r32 rear lights. they seemed to fit ok but not wanting to have one style i wanted 2 ie original and r32 ones. that bit like a divider thing yeah 260z all have it if it was one big hole would have been easy. i did similar what u did with the rear lights cut he 260z housing and garnish though i only did the housing as im trying to figure out how to cut that rear panel. i left it for now got other things to stuff around with at the moment on the car. ie finishing the wiring and driveline. but will post about it soonish. good luck only comment i got its bit flat and square. on mine im going to retain the edge roundness of the 260z garnish. well thats the plan just hope i can execute it.

geez i hope i can make it with mine by then. lot of you guys have nice s30 and cant wait to see them like greatdat ,toecutter, craigs and all the other ones. in Adelaide we got few but they mostly still under development. and the ones that are done they with a datsun club our local z club is still young and lot of us are still working hard on them. but ill be definetly be taking the road trip to melbourne for the next z national when m 260z is finished. still few months away till mines ready. at least she starts now (doesnt drive still waiting for tailshaft) and should stop ok next day or so. than interior to takle. as for a/c i got few parts but they are for 260z now has anyone got a pic of the heater box of the 240. i know they look a bit smaller just wondering how they do it.? if too much trouble stuff it. my 260z was pain in the neck and it allready had a/c but adapting it to rb20det compressor and r32 wiring was bit of an exercise and lot of swaering at it. and im the so called electronics nut. :oops: though lot of adaption was mechanicaly orientated and took a bit of nutting out.

OUCH i was afraid of that. i dont mind cutting the front i got 2 sets but cutting rear 1/4 panels im little bit hesitant. ie if i ever want to return it back to stock look at any stage. so did JDM ZG have special 1/4 panels fitted or they hacked it with a metal cutter? or did they just add them without cutting. still have to think about it now. not that eager to chop the rear 1/4 wheel arches. yeah im in adelaide. i would have done the job myself got all the tools and not afraid to use them. :lol: but was wondering if they were ways around it without cutting. though logicaly thinking about it i didnt see it happening without chop chop. or i just have to settle for the normal body shape and max width wheels to suit. but i do like the look of the zg flares. GRRRRR will come to melbourne with my 2+2 when its completed hopefully before the next natianals hope its few month away. will have solid week over xmass working on it so hopefully most gets done by then. the 240z will be my next big project car when i move out of my parents place. building a fully equiped workshop on my property with a new house next few months or so than i can attack it properly in my spare time. getting my miss to give me a hand with this one but collecting bits on the way as i just want to get on with the work when time comes instead of chassing parts. very divided on how to do this one. 1. stockish old schoolish 2. oldschool 3 rb26det transplant with all the goodies but kinda reversable if needed. thanks for your help guys ..........damn cutting :cry:

Hi guys thinking of installing the flares on my 240z. besides drilliling the car (OUCH) are there any other mods ie cutting the wheel arches etc... Sulio like how your car looks.its just mad. perfect balance all goes nicely together. you have any pics and what did u do to the body to install the flares. I can live with the holes but not so with cutting guards and arches which i believe datsun didnt do eaither. how low is your car? any info wil be good on your setup.ie how u installed the flares and what size rims and offset and profile tyres.

heheheh love the debates 2+2 VS 2 seater. :twisted: well i didnt even know the diff when i bought my 260Z 2+2 (well i did but i thought they looked identical and i did need two so called extra seats so i preffered a 2+2) but after noticing the differences are lot more noticable. though now i have a 240z cause i couldnt resist the short wheelbase and preffer the rear lights over the 260Z so just had to have it but not as an everyday car bit impractical. after few month i didnt like the 2+2 but after noticing few nice ones around they aint bad after all. so i dont bag the 2+2 as much actualy i like it looks lot longer and bit more of a musle car. though sales of the 2+2 compared to the 2 seater speak for them selves back in the mid to late 70's. i like all s30 models including the JDM ones they all have their benefits and undesirabilities. just have to figure it out what you need. Rust wise they are same they rust but i did see quite bad examples of 240z so be carefull check every inch of it. near the front subframe on the chassis and chassis rails. also have a good look underneath. Check near battery for rust on firewall and in the air box. usualy near steering and bonnet lock usualy hidden rust are near rear 1/4 windows and where roof meets the rear 1/4. also they rust around the rear wheel arches. have a good look if u dont know too much about body inspection drag someone with you that does. other rust spots are visible and can be noticed easy. its not a write off but be prepared to pay for the repairs to be fixed properly. eaither buy a cheap one with all visible rust so you know what u dealing with or pay bit more for a good one with picture details to prove the repairs done properly (ie no fiberglassing rust holes and body filing it over= JUST SHONKY and unsafe) 2+2 are bit easier to come by for parts. finidng a rear 1/4 panel and doors for 2 seater can be bit of a headache. most frontal parts can be still ordered through nissan. any model can be turned into an animal (RUNING FOR COVER :oops: ) ive modernised my 2+2 all the way. rb20det conversion and all other goodies like climate control, power everything big brakes lsd diff .s30 are very easy to modify (run for cover again) expecialy when using from nissan stable. ebay has occasional good priced one and some crapas. but dont buy anything without looking at it first. good luck

hmm seems to be promising. what brand did u use? did u also get the foam rollers from bunnings? maybe if u do 2 coats than wait till it dries than another 2 coats to get the colour right. and stop the runnin as well. did u try on the inside of the doors with wierd shape? i still cant figure how he did that from that forum. i guess with hinges its easy u just dip it in and hope for the best. Is the finish nice and glosy and no visible streaks from the roller?

NZeder! Just to clearifiy few things for me if i understood right. u saying that rb series are similar/same to L series ie cylinder spacing and head bolt locations? So if i get a twin cam head of rb20 or rb25 and should fit the l24,l26,l28 block? ie as in head bolt spacings? has anyone done this? as i can get rbde heads cheap i wouldnt mind trying it out. only problem is RB have timing belts while Ls have chains. or this could be changed over as well. hmm i could smell a replica 432 comming along for my 240 if this is true. or u saying L24/26/28 are similar between each other and Rb20/25/26/30 are similar between each other but not to L i know from rb20 and rb30 thats it cant be changed but its not a bolt up job as few things have to be changed and moded.

Oh sorry for "some" people that may think that 240-260 came with sunroofs from factory. They never did. i intended to say Factory Installed sunroofs ON OTHER CARS that came with sunroofs from factory. I though people by now know that 240-260 never came with one from nissan/datsun and that i was refering in general factory sunroofs are lot better than aftermarket. I hope i made it bit clearer and i also edited the original post to stop confusion. so sorry again

Hi, i had/got same prob as u guys. my 260z 2+2 had a glass pop roof which was leaking and previous owner siliconed it shut. it looked ugly. im not a big fan generaly for any of those aftermarket sunroof they just look wrong. but as for factory fitted ones (ON OTHER CARS NOT 240/260z they never had factory sunroofs. ie Generaly speaking of sunroofs) well i dont realy mind them. i also preffer metal sunroofs like on older cars. so instead of removing and replacing the roof i installed a metal electric sunroof from a 84 celica. check my pics in the gallery but can send pics if needed. but i also have a 240z with a sunroof as well. this one is in good condition and looks like factory fit expecialy on the inside with plastic moulding finishing it off. but i do preffer no sunroof on it. i still believe i can weld the hole just going to use the roof of the spare 260 parts car like Craig did. If u do it right u wouldnt know the difference. and the price hes given is about right. for weld and respray. but u have to specify u dont want 2cm of bog on it to fill in crapy welding job and heat deformation. i used heatsinks to take the heat away from the panel. ie big alloy tube.reduces panel warping.but also takes time to do it as u have to wait for panel to cool off. but i em thinking about using 87 celica sunroof as they are lot smaller in size than 84 and "may" fit the 240z. havent done any measurements yet. but as i want my 240z close to original spec and if modified closer to the era of the car instead of modernising it ill be most probably welding it.

Thanks, Some details: Sump: r32 item cut and swaped around and welded with baffle swap as well and moded. used z31 200zr oil pick up bought from nissan . requires slight adjustment. total cost $60 plus lot of hours with welder and grinder. prob next time will buy sump from 200zr but $480 is lots of $$$$ almost half the price of the engine. engine brackets. i sued original r32 items with r32 engine mounts. but trick to it i sloted the subframe hole to replicate the skyline subframe. this drops the engine to the lowest position and also allows u to position the engine square... also the engine mount holes have been sloted to push the engine as far as posible to the back. when i nitialy did this about a year ago i had clearences everywhere. but i did remove the engine to get it all painted and detialed so now its back in again. only improvement i did is made it possible to slide the engine more backwards for better balance.

I must admit when i read the title i thought to my self "u got to be kidding" but after reading some of the posts from that link im hooked. i thought best paint and easy is the 2pk paints base over clear. easy quick and last longer without polishing every month. but it does cost and its very dangerous to work with. but this is very interesting. if thats the case u can paint the car any colour u want almost on monthly basis :twisted: I realy would like to see his work up close but pics are nice. its probably the brand too that since he said he can get pretty much any colour made up. i doubt it we get that luxury here in oz. hmm i may have to try that idea on my rx4 just for the hell of it. so if anyone can find (before me) the brand and people in oiz that could be selling it let me know. try and see if i can replicate the job that bloke in USA has done. bit hard to believe as ive been invovled in crash industry for some time now. but ill give it a go.

i recently could have lost my 240z because of the air filters. when i bought it it came with 2 trumpets and sponge uni filter covers. i was playing around with it as it wasnt running properly fuel problems plus greatly out of tune. it backfired. and before u know it i had a 60cm flame coming out of the left side of the engine.thank god the car was stationary and bonnet up. so i was quick on the hose to put it out, i saved the car but filter are almost dont exsist. they looked cool but can prove to be fire danger also. ill probably leave the trumpets now as it looks insane. as the car wont be daily driver ill probably use fine stainless mesh inside the trumpets like the blitz sus and hks metal filters. but for everyday driving ill will stick with the original air box with decent filter safer and u get better performance.only prob i dont have one.

Finaly after many months my 260z 2+2 finaly gets its new engine.After 2 weeks of detailing the RB20DET pretty much every bolt and pipe removed from the engine. checked cleaned and painted. The rocker covers are still to come off for detailing didnt want to risk damaging them. they geting painted with candy apple with marble effect and rainbow mettalic.fairly expensive paint hence the reason for doing it after the engine is installed. now still to install clutch and gbox and other bits such as power steering and A/C pipes Plus all the wiring. still lot of work to do :cry: but now its rewarding as i can see the project finaly moving towards the end. and after every day the parts heap around my yard is finaly getting smaller.

are we talking about adr compliance plate or vehicle plate. both my 240z and 260z 2+2 have the adr plate on pasenger side on the firewall near the top. as for vehicle plate (the one with engine number chasis and power rating on the 240z it on the rh strut tower somewhere on the lower side while the 260 had its own little bracket on pasenger side behind the tower close to inspection lid. as for adrs 100% of the z ive seen were on the left (passenger side firewall)

my setup may not be as easy for some guys but becuse i changed all heap of stuff it may be an option if doing similar things after. my has 5 stud conversion and cv type driveshafts also power steering. also wanted 4 pot cal at the front and disk at rear. FRONT i used rx7 s4/5 turbo calipers but catch is i also used rx7 strut and hubs. reason for this is i got power steering at the front and wanted 5 stud rims and 4 spot calipers. nothing from nissan stable could do the cut because of the power steering being mounted on rear. but rx7 does have at the front. also i wanted new type of struts with small bottom seat which also rx7 has. so at the front i got vented 297mm rotors with 4 pot cal and ease of using rx7 coil over at later stage. REAR i got r200 lsd diff at the back and didnt like the uni type driveshafts. and the diff came with 4 bolt type cvs. also needing rear 5 stud i ended up getting comlete trailing arms from oz z31 turbo with rotors axles and calipers and handbrake cables. both for $200. the deal was to use z31 axles with 5 stud.also turbo z31 has same companion flange as my r200 from r31 2 door. i was hoping to find bearing that will fit 260z outside with 300zx inside. but problem was the early zed has imperial bearing size while z31 metric. on the end i go tthe hubs machined to suit the bearings. funny thing is the rear bracket that was welded was cut off and cleaned up but the holes actualy lined up to the 260z hub. anyway after machining it all went together well.. COST bearings cost $100, machining $250, new cv shafts (shorter ones $140 for a pair) ones maxima other pathfinder but its same as turbo one from r31 just shorter all up $700 but i got more than just a brake upgrade. as for front stuff i just got it swaped for my r32 stuff that came with front cut. only custom springs were extra $150 for a pair. but the front end is lot lighter than before cause mazda uses alloy hubs. as for brake bias i just replaced the whole master cylinder with r32 item as brakes are identical to the original r32 shouldnt have a problem. but time will tell when it gets tested. got pics off all this gear will post it tonight.. prob wont suit yoour bolt up jobs but if planing future mods prob its good to think about it now than doing the job twice.

i have the service manual for the 240z original nissan one. but it does include other models ie usa, europe and japan. but just ignore the extras. as i dont hava a scanner ill try take a pic of it with dig camera so give me ur email and ill email it to you. hope u dont have dial up. it will be relatively big picture. cause posting it on here is just too big. thats if u dont have it yet. please let me know as im pretty short on time