gav240z

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-240Z-1970-1971-Ashtray-/271563373175 Might go cheap? But you would need to figure out a handle.

Another option if you want Mikuni's would be to contact GreenleavesJapan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2g0prlRK_I on Ebay also http://www.ebay.com/usr/n916k717?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 http://www.gl2007.com/usa_kyusha.html

I Blame Chip Foose for This. https://www.youtube.com/user/l1ndam1ll3r/videos Youtube User: l1ndam1ll3r Father and Son - 260z restoration project.

I had to quit watching that program, the hack jobs they do upset me too much. No finesse in anything they did, just a geezer! Same guy had a previous TV program called: Chop Shop, where his so called designer Leepu churned out some of the worst automotive abortions I've ever seen!

My fault, I've let Drupal get out of date and need to run a couple of security patches. Removed for now, but will need to run some further updates shortly.

Yeah my experience with RHDJapan is the same. The PayPal fee is a stinger and shipping is on the high side. Also exchange rate is pretty average. Otherwise they are good. Often cheaper than OEM dealers in AU. I speak from experience buying parts for the FD rx7.

Those OER's on RHDJapan are a good price! Mikuni / Solex ones are available on Yahoo! Auctions - but the big ones 44 - 50 mm ones are very expensive! I still haven't driven a Z that runs Triples.... can't believe it.

So apart from removing the spot welds along the sides of the bonnet, I also discovered after racking my brains for a few minutes that there is a few 'hidden' ones at the top (the end near the driver) of the bonnet also. So that's along the sides, at the front under the fold part (where the grill is) and at the rear where the folded lip is. These are by far the hardest to spot (as I discovered). Separation after that point is relatively straight forward. The frame looks like this. Skin like this: The frame is relatively straight, to my surprise I expected to find it bent (from the surface damage) but it was actually pretty straight. Just the top right edge is slightly bent. Ignore the oily residue (probably from the engine / oil breather?) To my pleasant surprise the bonnet has almost 0 rust, there is some surface rust here and there etc.. But it's relatively solid - even where it took the hit. I did notice about half-way down the bonnet though on the underside is a bit of a ripple (perhaps from some form of dent?) on the top side it's not obvious, but there is some cracked paint (yep the bog monster nikki*). I guess just another example of the previous panel master using bog instead of a dolly and hammer - * The guys at the tafe course kept referring to filler as 'nikki' and I thought it was quite funny - you know just a nickname. Till I discovered there is a product called nikki. http://www.paintandpanel.com.au/news/nikki-a-new-concept1 To be honest after finding the frame isn't that bad and very little rust, I was thinking to myself I really didn't need to separate the skin and frame, but I don't know how I could possibly get the damage out to a level I'd be happy with if I left them together. I guess my tafe course teachers probably would have had some techniques - but at least now it will be easier with access to the rear. I don't know if it's better to patch the metal that is there and re-shape it, or create a new section and weld it in? Alternatively someone might have a bonnet that is damaged on the driver side in which case I'd be interested in making 1 good bonnet out of the 2?

Haha wish I'd seen that.

That's what I'm doing, the pilot hole with a small drill bit. As you suggested

Hi Everyone, I tried to see if there was any tutorials on the net about this, but couldn't see anything on any of the big Classic Z websites. So I decided to start documenting my method. Although I have a spare non fluted bonnet in Melbourne - I had originally purchased it with the intention of putting it on my 72 240z (which currently has the later flute style bonnet). The bonnet that came with the Safari Gold (1970 model 240z) has had a bit of a mishap. As can be seen here: The problem with many Z bonnets I see is that they have all had a slight (or sometimes slightly harder) knock at the front. Often I see this repaired but not to the standard I like. Here is an example (admittedly not the best) of my 72 240z - when it had an earlier non-fluted bonnet, which had been modified with E-Type style slat flutes in it. You might not be able to see very clearly but there is a slight 'droop' in the line at the front of the car - it had been previously repaired after a slightly knock at the front. (This bonnet has since been replaced with the later fluted bonnet below). Note how it sharpens the front of the car up? There is a very defining line at the front of the bonnet that is often lost when repaired incorrectly. The reason for the poor repair is often due to access to the front part of the bonnet. The frame itself makes it nearly impossible to beat it into correct shape from behind. So instead you need to reply on body filler and using a slide hammer or similar to pull the dents out of the front of the bonnet. Which is less than ideal. Of course you could try and find a good second hand bonnet, but these are getting harder to find in good condition for the above mentioned reasons. Also if you do find what appears to be a straight bonnet there is no guarantee it hasn't been filled with bog etc.. once you strip it. So I'm going to attempt to repair this 1. To start, here is the basic tools I'm using. 1. Basic multi-speed hand drill 2. Thin Sharp Chisel 3. Hammer - doesn't have to be a soft rubber mallet as pictured. 4. Spot Weld Cutter (see pic below) I got my spot weld cutters from eBay store http://stores.ebay.com.au/ozmestore1 http://stores.ebay.com.au/ozmestore1/_i.html?_nkw=spot+weld&submit=Search The actual drill attachment you only need 1 of, but you can get the cutters separately and when they go blunt just throw them out and replace with another 1. I ordered a bunch at the same time since I'll be undoing a few spot welds. Cutting out spot welds. Along the edges of the bonnet is a bunch of spot welds like this. It might be hard to find them if there is rust, paint, crap covering them. So look carefully to make sure you know where they are. Start by drilling a small pilot hole in the middle of the spot weld. Then once you've started the pilot hole you'll put the spot weld cutter locator into the middle of this and start to slowly drill. The idea, is to cut the top skin layer around the spot weld, freeing up the skin from the frame. As far as I can tell the spot welds on the skin are under the front of the bonnet and along the edges and the rear has a lip folded over the frame. Unfolding lip I put the bonnet on the grass to prevent damaging the skin or denting it anywhere else. Using a screwdriver I slowly start to undo the fold at the rear, gradually lifting it up as you go along the rear edge of the bonnet. I'll update this thread when I finally get the skin off, but for now that's all I've done.

Hi Guys, I was actually looking at Real Estate trends on Google Trends, and got side-tracked and thought I'd look at 240z. https://www.google.com.au/trends/explore#q=240z&geo=AU&cmpt=q For those who don't know Google Trends shows search trends for certain terms over a period of time. I managed to find a few articles as a result. http://www.cnnexpansion.com/autos/2011/02/22/197173-datsun-240z - You'll need Google Translate. http://blogs.wsj.com/drivers-seat/2011/07/30/vintage-240z-not-quite-original-but-who-cares/?mod=google_news_blog (Wall Street Journal!) When looking at the AU market trends the rising trend is "240z for sale". What I found interesting the other day was that if you look at the Petrolicious videos. The second most popular feature is the 240z. https://www.youtube.com/user/PetroliciousCo/videos?flow=grid&view=0&sort=p

If you manage to find a good source for the grub screws let me know? I need a couple for the choke and throttle knob in mine.

Sadly the Zed is in the shed, it was the Suzuki Jimny I was in. Funny thing is the ticket said Subaru 4x4 - to which I thought perhaps there is a technicality there, but I'm told they take a photo. Funny how they can get a small detail like that wrong and they will still send me the fine, yet I get a small detail like reading a small script of text on a parking sign wrong and I get screwed. It cost $8 for the parking also, not like I was trying to cheat the council out of revenue -I bought my ticket. All it does is put me off going down to that area for dinner again with the missus - which in turn hurts local business. So who is the council really looking after? FWIW it seems to be a NSW based rule, they don't have this same rule in Victoria. In 6 years living in Ireland never got a parking fine, but in the last 10 months back in Australia I've received 2. The last 1 I got screwed on was a GoGet car, someone had parked in the designated spot reserved for the GoGet car. So I had to park somewhere else. I parked in a spot that was fine for the rest of the day, but nobody hired it for 2 days after me. It received a fine from the council and since I was the last person to use the car I got pinned for it. GoGet were nice enough to charge another $25 admin fee on top. I have since stopped using GoGet. I tried to appeal that fine on the council website, turns out the appeal form on their website was broken. Little incentive to fix that I'm guessing? That's the problem with a council fine, you're screwed no matter what you appeal. The only thing I take comfort in is the fact that when my 260z 2+2 was written off (some dude pulled out in front of me), I crashed into the back of the car that pulled out in front of me, but also a white Toyota, which then hit the other Toyota parked in front of it. Turns out the Toyota's belonged to parking inspectors for the local council. They were not happy. Everyone else at the scene had a little snicker though. It was a good moment in an otherwise sad night.

Well since we're on the topic of ridiculous rules. I got fined Saturday night for parking (not rear to kerb) in a 90 degree spot. I didn't even know this rule existed or was a potentially fine-able offence. Instead of reversing into the spot, I drove in straight like I do most of the time I'm parking like that. Little did I know this was a 'unique spot'. Thanks Leichhardt council - I feel safer knowing you're doing a good job protecting our community from cars parked facing the kerb... $104

Potentially interested in a bonnet (no flutes) depending on condition and cost to freight to Sydney? Don't suppose you have an early 240z rear hatch w/vents in it?

Hey guys, I can confirm they use PPG paint and I saw them using the Spectrometer yesterday in the shop. If someone has a good sample of the original grey paint I can probably use it to get the correct colour sample then once it's on the computer I can try and get the file and upload it here so anyone can get it mixed up at a local paint shop.

So I ordered the rare spares skin. As you can see it comes with the upper bracket - so no need to chop it off the old skin and spot weld. Which will save me time. I did however notice it felt significantly heavier than the original skin. I haven't weighed them to compare but it is noticeable. I spent about 3 hours in the sandblasting cabinet yesterday. Who knew under all that surface rust was actual metal? I wouldn't say I enjoyed the experience if I'm honest. Actually if I'm honest I'd probably outsource sand-blasting. It's not a glamorous job. Although the cabinet at Tafe has been a bit neglected so needs a bit of tidy up - kept getting sand in amongst my granite so had to constantly keep changing it / cleaning it. The glass on the cabinet has also had some abuse - which they are replacing so it's hard to see what you're doing. It's generally ok for most surface rust, but the pitted areas like the bottom of the door took a lot longer to bring up. Bottom line is, if you don't have access to 1 at home. It's probably worth sending it to a sandblaster and paying the piper. Unless you enjoy tasks like this? Hey I'm not judging... Anyway I might use paint stripper on the outside of the shell to save some time in the next class. I plan to rust proof the inside of the door skin and hit it with etch primer etc.. The good news is I only really saw 1 tiny rust hole in the door shell at the bottom, so looks like I got out of that easily. I've sort of placed the rare spares door skin over the shell to see how it sits, it might need a little work on the upper right hand edge where the panel gap between the upper door and fender are, but I haven't tried to mock it up properly yet.

Hi Munters, I found 1 recently from a member here, but usually they come with the rest of the ash-tray. I had a couple of people on HybridZ send me a PM to say they had 1 when I posted there. I would try a wanted ad there, early 240z parts are more common in the US than here. Our supplies have dwindled in recent years. Expect to pay up to $100 for 1.

Looks a bajillion times better with the non-colour coded bumpers (god the 90s) and the bre spook. If you decide to let go of those wheels let me know?

Haha Simon I couldn't remember what movie that meme is from.

This thread has already had over 1000 views and the images have been viewed about 130 times each. Demand for early 240z much?

It's a 71 which had the earlier console but later rear hatch, badges and steering wheel. Kind of a transitional year.

Pretty sure it's this car right? It is a 2+2. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14500.msg153923.html#msg153923 A friend of mine had some Bathurst Highlights video tapes we watched a while back, it showed the Prince Skyline racing at Bathurst, along with the 240k and 260z 2+2. I might try to get him to convert that footage to digital and stick it on Youtube. He is a cameraman by trade and loves to do that sort of thing.

At first I was like... But then I realised, I've never used a GoPro so can't help. It sounds like you're trying to upload the raw video file before compressing it. Which could be several gigs, you can compress it locally to bring the file size down (yes the quality will degrade slightly) then try uploading it.