gav240z

Just drill holes if they are not already in there. I fabricated the lower section of my guards and copied the holes over from a paper template I'm sure the rare spares lower section has the holes but if not that is the easiest part to do. The door skins are pretty good quality so I don't see why the lower fender section wouldn't be.

Auszcar technically started in 2004. First time the site was indexed was March 2004. https://web.archive.org/web/20040321195608/http://viczcar.com/ But hey I'm not opposed to a 10 year celebration.

Is that an advertisement or endorsement? Have you had them build a motor for you? Your profile says you are in Sydney and yet these guys are in Melbourne? Not that there is anything wrong with that, but as you are new here you've posted 4 times 2 of which is to plug this website.

Updated first post to contain more info on the 05L and photos of the E31 head.

In part the appeal is that, but it's more to retain the L-series, at least for me it is. The RB30 head like the LY head has a hemispherical combustion chamber which has advantages in itself but yes the easiest way to do it would be slot an RB30 block in a Z. Rather than go off tangent on this topic I'll send you a PM. Fair enough, we can't do everything. I do like the idea of an LY replica though, would be really cool for a Rally Car replica .

Whilst I agree many SUs managed without them, they also had issues with throttle shaft wear. I do think the idea behind the ZTherapy fix is good and many owners or Ztherapy carbs report on improved throttle response due to the roller bearings. So I'm somewhat sold on the idea at this stage. I can confirm these are NLA due to supplier issues. I may speak to James about it and see what he says on the topic. I don't mind spending a little extra to get the roller bearings done if I can find a suitable bearing. Not surprised but Ztherapy were reluctant to send me the bearings themselves. Happy to sell me everything else though. So you're saying the Rolls Royce SUs came with a roller bearing set up from factory? Yeah I was thinking talking to a bearing distributor like SKF would be the way to go. The tricky part will be stopping air leaks and making sure the seal doesn't protrude into the butterfly of the carb or provide any interference.

Hey mate, I was actually going to ask you if there is a thread on here where you detailed installing those flat slide carbs on your car? I was going through your build thread but there's 30 pages so if you have a link to a post feel free to link me up!

It's all about nostalgia, in particular the RB30 head appeals to me as it's the closest you can get to the LY engine. See here for more info: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=13887.0

Ledge I can't find your RB30/L thread, wondering if that project has now stalled given the RB26 dying and the purchase of the Hako?

+1 if you do it right the first time you own't be fixing rust holes later on. Just be thankful you don't have to cut out any rust .

Engine bay looks the goods, would be interested in specs etc.. only thing I'd change is the rear tail light garnish back to grey, all white makes it a bit washed out. Just my humble opinion of course. Otherwise a neat little rig.

Just on the topic of Needle Bearings on throttle shafts. http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,516138 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,420453 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2259015 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1744311 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2572722 Seems to be a bit of debate about those roller bearings . Also found this page. https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/2014/01/02/su-carburetor-rebuilding-hs-6/ Which has good info on Delrin bushings instead of brass.

Hi Everyone, So 1 thing I want to do is rebuild my SU carbs, I've been looking at the Ztherapy.com website and whilst I'd be happy to outsource to them, I'd rather not have to ship to the US and back and at the current currency conversion rate it will be rather expensive. Especially if the total is above $1000 AU which will then attract additional tax / GST etc.. So first things first. 1. Roller Bearing Throttle Shafts. So this seems to be a big selling point for them. I'll send them an email and ask if they would sell these separate and I can then get a competent local machinist to help modify the carb bodies to accept them. Does anyone however want to hazard a guess as to what type of bearings these are and what size is used or where to get them locally? Not a great picture but here is a view. See here: http://www.spannerhead.com/2012/03/12/datsun-240z-restoration-carbs-return/ I'm guessing they are a 'needle roller bearing' but unsure, since I've heard they have a rubber dust shield also. 2. For the yellow zinc plating of throttle components I think the recommendation here for NSW was Alexandria Plating so I'll look into that. But if anyone has had any luck with DIY kits you can do at home please let me know? 3. I was also looking at the Ztherapy site which mentioned tumble polishing their carb bodies for consistent surfaces inside and out. I had a look and found this video which seems to show this process on a set of wheels. (Excuse the horrid music) I guess I can ask the plating place about this. Worst case scenario and bench grinder / sand paper and lots of polishing compound will be the next best thing. Edit: Or make my own from kitty litter and the wife/gf's kitchen bowls haha. 4. I'll probably still order Needles, Nozzles, Gaskets and Grose valves/jets (since they are a good idea)* *Although maybe unavailable now. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44897-ztherapy-rebuild-kit/ Has anyone else rebuilt their SUs in this kind of detail before and if so any tips / advice or local suppliers you used?

Not hating, just hard to reverse like a sunroof. So better be sure it is what you want before doing it is all I'm saying. I just wish people who did the flares went the whole way and did the ZG conversion for the 'proper' factory look.

Can you please post photos of 1. 240z metal taillight garnish (3 pc) - $100 2. 240z genuine tail lights - complete, uncracked, original -$300

Welcome, before you take angle grinder to your fenders consider that a non-flared S30z can look quite stunning also. Whilst the flares look cool you may change your mind in a few years time and wish to a retain a more 'original' look. It all depends on what floats your boat, upload a picture of your Z so we can all gawk at it. . No Viczcar app yet, but we might have a more mobile friendly theme in future. No flares

Hopefully in the not too distant future.

Nice video Ash, shame I didn't get to see the 240ZR in person. I'm sure I will at some stage, good to see someone with more projects on the go than me.

2 seater S130 in Japan. http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x373336540 Looks quite tidy and I like the overall look (not sure about rear hatch). http://yahoo.kurumaerabi.com/html/201501/229/39b3d3ad_image.html About $13k before import duties etc.. but being older than 30 years it should be cheaper to import.

If you don't find 1 locally there is always this. http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b168698669#enlargeimg But try calling Ashley at Moorabbin Auto Spares he has some S30z parts I'm sure he'll have a gear box mount. If not he may be able to order you a new 1. Zed parts is his part time business so you may need to chase him a little as he runs a small business and is quite busy.

It's in WA, which has a low population of S30z's in general compared with the East Coast. (freight alone for a 2 seater from the East Coast is probably near $2000 AU). Always easier to start high and come down, than try and start low and go up . It may not be as rusty as it looks structurally which might be a positive since door skins can be replaced relatively easily (well for a pro not me ) and other external panels can be remedied / replaced without too much hassle. It's the structural stuff that slows down the project.

Congrats to both the seller and new owner. I'll hopefully see it in Sydney at some point? Not surprised it sold so quick to be honest, very clean honest looking car mate. At least you have another .

@Mike - I think warranty will come down to what's wrong with it, if I somehow damaged it or it failed on it's own in some way. Won't know till he looks at it. So in other news, before I left Melbourne I made up a choke bracket to help prevent breakage of the center console. Using a cardboard template I tried to replicate what I saw in this image. http://datsunpartsllc.com/cart/index.php?p=product&id=225&parent=5 I made several attempts by laying the cardboard over the trans tunnel to try and guess the right dimensions, but after that wasn't working out I actually just randomly sketched it out as seen below and it happened to be the right dimensions. Figures... the total guess was most accurate. To give a sense of how it works I tried to take photos. Choke Disengaged. It doesn't sit ALL the way forward. Choke Engaged. Underneath ashtray view. It was actually quite a challenge to figure out where to screw it to the trans tunnel because you need to make sure the choke is in the right place relative to where the console sits when installed. I spent a couple of hours on this thing, at first I thought $30 USD was expensive for this piece, but after all the messing about I was ready to just buy the Datsun Parts LLC bracket. It would have saved me 2 hours of messing about and several cardboard tempates and cutting out a bracket with tin snips twice! So if you've not got the patience buy their version . After that I adjusted the choke cables on the carbs, but this made the starting mixture WAYYY too rich and she ran like an angry pig spitting fuel out the exhaust. So I had to dial it back so the choke on lightly engages. Speaking of SU carbs... I've always felt that that my 240z feels a bit flat as the revs climb. Below 3,500 rpm torque is strong and it feels good, but as the revs climb it seems to feel a bit weak. The car has been sitting 6 years so the carbs could use new gaskets and a rebuild but even so before that it always felt a bit unwilling to really rev. But looking at them closer I noticed something odd. Left Side Right Side Can you see it? My 72 240z has the 3 screw version of the SU carbs. I had never seen an AU delivered car with these, and always thought we only got the 4 screw dome tops. However since my 1/4 panel was from an early car, the SUs are from an early car and I was given some early car parts like the straight gear shifter from the 71A gearbox. The previous owner had Triple Dellortos on it and before he sold it went back to the SUs so I assume they came off an early girl that was used as a parts car to restore my 72 model. So anyway I went to the garage in Sydney and looked at the carbs that came off HS30 000150 - what do you know? 4 screw domes. So perhaps at some point it was changed over from it's original SUs - perhaps due to wear and a 'good' second hand set of 4 screw dome tops replaced the originals. Funny enough it still has the original style early heat shield. So what does it all mean? Well the SUs could use an overhaul on the 72. So I'll rebuild the 4 screw dome top SUs and then bolt them onto my 72 240z. I'll keep the 3 screw version for car #150. Although it's likely I'll install Triple Mikuni's if I can come up with a suitable airbox.

Well Nick if you owned HS30 0004 would you consider it more valuable than HS30 00019? OR HS30 000150? Personally if I owned HS30 0004 I would consider it an important and valuable car to be cherished and kept in original condition with as many original components as possible and therefore I would also consider it more valuable than #19 or #150. Apart from #4 car #19 is the earliest Z we know about in this country. Nzeder owned #16 years ago in NZ and I think another member on here also owned it, but we don't know where it is now. Where do numbers stop making a big difference? For me it's when the changes to the car started like the rear vents in the hatch, that often signifies an early s30z. But that's just my opinion, to be perfectly honest I think any 240z or 260z is a special car so it's only a big deal if those details matter to you.

That's a good question, I don't have a crystal ball so it's hard to say? Will a RHD 240z be worth more than a LHD 240z simply because there were so few RHD cars made? Does it matter if it has the original engine number? Given that JDM cars didn't have an engine number stamped to their ID plate? Will S30z collectors insist on OEM parts or will close enough replica be good enough? I think what is driving interest in the first S30z's is simply because they were the first of the Nissan Z-car series over 45 years of history and people want to part of what started it all the first of the first. With so few early cars actually surviving and of those so few left alone or original I think it's their sheer scarcity that is driving value more than anything else. How often do you see an early number S30z for sale? In my opinion though restoring for the 'most value' is probably the wrong way to look at it, at least that's how I feel with #150. Rather I'm restoring for usability and enjoyment and taking it in a direction that appeals to me. I am trying to restore original parts where possible and only sourcing new parts if I absolutely have to. Even I have trouble making some decisions for example the rare spares door skin was a bit thicker and heavier than the original, should that alter it's value? Maybe... but I think you have to be pragmatic about it. I'm taking #150 in it's original direction, but it won't stop me from fitting period correct parts that were not necessarily on the car when it was sold new in Australia. With my 72 240z I'm going to be a bit more liberal with the way it's built and modified. I think that time capsule cars will always have a certain appeal and with my 72 240z I quite like using second hand parts as it gives the car more of a preserved than 'restored' feel. Which I kind of liken to wearing an old pair of comfortable jeans or shoes. I never like the feel of brand new shoes. Plus everything has a bit of history to it that way, but that's just my opinion and feel and may not be everybody else's perspective. For me I also like the early cars because that to me is when things were most interesting, with things like the early Rally Cars, the 432 and 432-R models, the HS30-H and then the early racing stuff like LY cylinder heads. Where as at the other end of the scale you have the 280z (North America) and things were getting quiet for the S30z by that stage.