gav240z

I can get them, but they are very expensive out of Japan. $600 AUD + for a pair in NOS condition. Hard to source (very hard). You're best off finding a second hand pair off a parted out 2+2, hopefully a member here has some in relatively good shape. Alternatively you might be able to salvage the amber portion of the lens from what you have and just buy a new 'clear' part? http://streetlens.com/japanese.html As far as I'm aware the amber part is separate lens / cover part to the rest of the lens housing etc..

I'd like to keep it for posterity but I've marked subject as [sold].

Maybe try calling Ashley at Moorabbin Auto Spares or Lindsay Drife at Zshop?

What do you mean by the entire unit? Do you mean the bracket that attaches to the body of the car? I don't have a spare of those, but I assume the 260z ones would be the same? (at least the single left hand side). Where and how much? My replacement was $40 I view it as a temporary fix, was sick of the thing falling on my head .

From across the Tasman some rumblings could be heard... But good to see some activity in the Tasmanian section all the same.

You need the amber / clear combination lamp correct?

Hi mate, I got a strut that works but doesn't open as high. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14206.msg163182.html#msg163182 I have a spare OEM 1 but I had to cut the thread where the but attaches because it wouldn't come undone due to damaged thread. Do you have a place in mind to regass an OEM unit?

That's pretty cool, have you tried it with an Android phone as the USB device? Reason I ask is that my head unit in my rx7 has a USB port but it can't read the MP3s on my Google Music (Android) device. Which is a pain, driving from Sydney to Melbourne is a long trip. I was looking for something that can transmit from Android (via FM frequency) so that the head unit in my Jimny can pick it up and that way I won't run out of songs to play.

Yeah that's what I was thinking also. Cheers mate.

Pretty sure you're joking, but I can confirm it most definitely isn't. Do you know where it was mounted? I can't recall ever seeing 1 of these on my 240z, is your car a 260z? Or 280z? (S31?) with fuel injection?

George that quote right there is something that has taken me a LONG time to learn.. But if I only followed this bit of advice more often I would have avoided a lot of anguish. Thanks.

What kind of carby do you want tuned?

Ok so response from ZTherapy is that they won't sell the roller bearings separate. Fair enough... Next question, I'm looking at their rebuild kit. http://www.ztherapy.com/products/masterprices/master_price_list.htm ZT150 which includes: For the grand total of $180 + shipping. They will refund me $50 for the nozzles. So really it's $130 ish...(minus postage etc..) However looking on eBay I saw this kit ~$40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1970-73-Round-Top-Carb-Rebuild-Kit-Hitachi-SU-Carburetor-Pair-NEW-/221677486467 and this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-L24-Carb-Rebuild-Kit-Hitachi-SU-Carburetor-NEW-/221674812528 It doesn't include all gaskets, nozzles, fuel lines so not sure how good it is? But it is a big price difference. Anyway has anyone had experience with rebuild kits and if so what would you recommend? I do like the Ztherapy stuff as I've seen the Just SU DVD and found it very useful and in part of the DVD they show another rebuild kit that doesn't seem like brilliant quality so happy to spend more if it means they work better than new.

Thanks George, would it be feasible to keep all items together via steel wire or similar? Just thinking of keeping everything in order. I'm also worried about parts going missing. Comes with the territory I suppose but I want to redo many of the SU parts and I'm worried I'll end up missing hard to source parts.

Don't get too excited over that Yellow S30z (late 260z), I know it's history (I believe it's the same car). It was pretty rough body wise (lots of rust) about 2004-2005 when I saw it. Someone in Hawthorn owned it (near Swinburne) and I'd be very surprised if it was ever properly repaired. Someone is going to sandblast that car someday and be left with something that makes HS30 00019 look solid .

If you get stuck I might have a spare you could borrow until a new 1 arrives. Not sure if it works though can't remember if it's good or fubar.

Nice George, gold zinc plating? Who did it and how much for a large box? Which ones didn't turn out well and why? Was it dirty or corroded?

Looks nice to me, hail damage doesn't look that obvious. Bit of hammer and dolly time + heat shrinking and you could definitely save a straight bonnet. That original bronze hue and 260z 2+2 is what first got me into these cars. It seems cheap to me at $3k even if it needs work. Well worth doing.

Maybe these mate? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/penrith/other-parts-accessories/triple-original-webers-produced-in-bologna-italy-for-sale/1069057010

That worked, thanks mate. But at this stage i'll pass on the tail light garnish. Although they look straight it appears someone painted over the chrome part of the tail light surround. My own pair are slightly bent but haven't been painted over. So I'm hoping I can set them straight again and save them.

http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4818298 http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5161875 "series 1"* or as I prefer to call them "early s30z" parts are expensive as I'm sure you'll discover. The good news is as they are becoming more collectible more vendors are reproducing parts that were NLA for them. *series 1 is very much North American nomenclature, very much like the way they refer to amber turn signals as "Euro spec" when in fact it was also, South Africa, Australian, New Zealand, Japanese and probably more locations outside of Europe. I've got an early choke knob, but it has a missing chunk out of the bottom of it. Lucky you to have a good condition console. Pretty hard to find them without the stress cracks in them now. I may end up getting mine 'recovered' by Dashboard Restorations in Victoria to give it the 'correct' grain look but at this point it's not a huge priority.

Only way to learn is to give it a go. Mig welders are pretty forgiving if you have it on the correct setting. I somewhat prefer the old school oxy as it's a bit neater, but I still haven't mastered it. TIG would be awesome if you wanted to buy 1 and can afford it. It's 1 skill I'm glad I've started to learn, so useful. It's the kind of skill that once you start doing stuff you find more ways to apply it . For example I modified a pair of seat rails for my RX-7. http://www.fdrx7.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16961 Which I would never have been able to do before I started the tafe course. Of course if you don't want to learn or have the time for it that's fine also. Just encouraging others as I always wanted to learn but was afraid to give it a try.

You can see what it looks like here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13624.msg151581.html#msg151581 However it's possible that the original holes may look different and my guard could have been modified at some point to make it fit etc.. So I may have copied modified holes. Not that it's a big deal mind you. Hence I wouldn't stress about it so long as they line up with the bolt holes you'll be fine. Of course if your goal is concourse then maybe buy new OEM guards.

Rev, do you need the choke and throttle knobs? You can get a reproduction surround for the console. Fuse box cover is part of the ash-tray and very hard to find uncracked / damaged. I've seen early s30z ashtray / fuse covers sell for $250 USD + I'm afraid. 240z air box shouldn't be too difficult to find. I think the 2.0ltr airbox off the L20 (Fairlady Z) is the same size.

Or upload to Photobucket or as I do Picasa Web Albums (Google Photos) and then link to the images via the image tag. For classifieds it's not a problem if the image link breaks later. https://plus.google.com/photos For technical articles etc.. it obviously makes sense to upload the images to a location that will be around in a few years time.