gav240z

Maroon 2+2 with historic plates? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1897-spotted-vic/?p=157271

Previously collected photos of HS30 00958. HS30 indicates RHD and it's manual. https://goo.gl/photos/CJejHrzL657hoheu5

7 mins in, if you want to see what a stroked L28 is like.

Have you seen this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-70-78-Speedometer-Gauge-Face-Kilometers-JDM-Km-H-637-/222109847296

Weird spot for rust, usually it's the leading edge. I've already unpicked the frame and skin on mine and plan to paint the inside edge with KBS rust seal. I'm a fan, it's really thick and durable. I hope after all this work our cars last forever! .

Or opt for a Japanese home market speedo.

I only mention it because finding a good vented rear hatch now is very hard. So if it's not required then it will be more economical and less time consuming to find a replacement. Having said that even a regular 240z hatch is now hard to find here. Did you mean to say 70 or 71? Given the Early Girl Bingo thread I'd say it's definitely a 71.

958 wouldn't have a vented rear hatch. It had a solid rear hatch and vented pillars.

Not for an S30z but a 510 / Bluebird instead. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322118132157 http://www.ebay.com/itm/322118132271 Both radio's are bargain's compared to what early 240z radio's cost... Part no.s 28013-89960 27901-89910 Buy it now around ~100 USD each..

Quick comparison of the metal I removed from the lower corner of my rear hatch and the thickness of the metal I replaced it with. You can see at the bottom of the hatch the gauge of metal is very very thin, add in 40+ years of corrosion and what's left is pitted and very weak... The bonnet on that black car is toast and that's a panel high up on the body, unlikely to retain much water compared with lower sills, floors, rear hatch etc.. You might be able to replace most of the external panels with better examples but it's the overall body structure that would concern me most.

Does anyone know what the hazard flasher can part no. is? 25520-89994 - appears to be: Turn Signal Flasher Unit Apparently this suits: Suits Datsun B110 1200 Nissan 280Z 280ZX Datsun 260Z Datsun 240Z Datsun 521 Ute Datsun 620 Ute Datsun 510 1600 Datsun 610 180B Datsun 710 140J 160J Hazard Flasher Unit Part No. 25520-89960 - apparently. Genuine NOS Datsun Nissan Hazard Flasher Unit Part Numbers: 25520-89997, 25520-89990, 25520-89960, 25520-B5500, 25520-E4600 Suits Datsun B110 1200 Nissan 280Z 280ZX Datsun 260Z Datsun 240Z Datsun 521 Ute Datsun 620 Ute Datsun 510 1600 Datsun 610 180B Datsun 710 140J 160J

Looks like a nice example well done.

Applied KBS rust seal today in the sun. I poured KBS seal into the gaps and under the skin and then moved the hatch around to try and swish it around as best as possible. The stuff is quite thick and heavy and therefore not the easies to get to spread around. I also treated the underside of the new skin, so hopefully that means I can get the new skin onto the hatch this week!

It's hard to say without knowing exactly what you did, but I find that even if you move around when welding there is a lot of heat stuck in the panel itself and it can cause distortion. I also think that MIG is a harder weld so it doesn't have the flexibility which allows you to beat it back into shape unfortunately. Look forward to how you tackle the next step.

No problem, it looked like it could have been an original Nichira style exhaust. http://jdm-car-parts.com/blogs/news/16149728-fact-about-factory-muffler-on-early-datsun-240z But it looks like reproductions exist now. http://jdm-car-parts.com/blogs/news/15973536-original-oem-type-muffer-and-down-pipe-finally-launched

Is there any branding on the exhaust muffler? Doesn't happen to say Nichira does it?

So small update, using the guide here provided by John. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/4564-part-1-preparing-bare-panels-priming-and-surfacing-tutorial/ I went down to Bunnings to get some wire brushes, nylon brushes etc.. I cleaned up the frame inside using the techniques John outlined, even though this area won't be seen I figure it's best to clean up the metal as best as possible before applying KBS rust seal. The wire wheels and nylon work well as they are not too harsh and won't take much metal/material off. As you can see the lower hatch metal is a bit pitted so you want to avoid doing anything to further weaken it or make it thinner than it already is. Then I hit the metal with Aquaclean, rinses it and dried, then applied RustBlast. I'll do KBS rust seal application in the morning (it's drying over night). Whilst at Tafe the other night I spot welded the rear hatch lock support piece in place. Hence the copper primer. The plan is to finally weld the 2 pieces together so rust proofing whilst it's apart now.

PM sent Jason.

FYI: HLS30 00064 reached around $58K USD and passed in. Here is a KPGC110 for sale - although auction has ended. http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v456217318 Asking price was: 40,000,000 YEN (~ half a mill $AUD). Japanese Classic Cars - So Hot Right now.

They money is in the original airbox . Sorry.

It looks somewhat ready to go, apart from the brass valve seats, you would want to make sure the weld repair was good but it's not uncommon to be required on the earlier heads due to corrosion. Mine needed quite a bit of love in that regard. This looks like it needs cam towers installed (you would want internally oiled ones - to eliminate the spray bar) and camshaft spec is up to you. I'm not sure why it's listed as a 'race head' so you would want to see what port work was done. I'd guess you may need to sink another $500-$1000 in it depending on what you want to do with it vs what's already done. It may not need that much money but I always over-estimate so I'm pleasantly surprised when it's cheaper. Shipping will be the expensive part. I spent close to $2,500 on my E31 head and I already had the head and cam towers, internally oiled camshaft etc..

I plan to remove the front and rear cross members to rebuild those components off the car and paint them in KBS rust seal etc.. it would be helpful also to be able to wheel the shell around. How high does the car sit off the ground with these attached? It might also help me with floor repairs since I don't have a rotisserie at the moment.

Did anyone here buy this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dealer-parts-manual-Datsun-240Z-260Z-/331854767339 I made a couple of bids - but already have a digital copy. I was curious if there was much difference between the later 79 version I have and this 75 version.

Any photos of how these look when installed? Trying to determine if they would be a good idea for my garage / situation.

I have a feeling Option 1 is emulating the ratio's available here. (Part No. 32010-N3220 - refer thread) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tGt5V5rGDVS2Zxb1EtdG1fMU0/view