gav240z

Keep us posted when it is featured. I've spent 6 months plus on a single panel. . Of course I'm learning so that's part of the reason. But yeah wish my bodywork/paint was done in 6 months.

Sean has been a busy boy...

Hi Folks, I have a friend in SFO with a bunch of TOPY wheels, I think they are date stamped 72/73 mostly.. I was doing some sums on cost to buy + import here and wasn't sure if it's worth bringing them in, in bulk etc.. From memory he has maybe 3-4 pairs of these wheels, maybe more? Just wondering if there is much demand for these and if so what year / date stamp is required? Or if this isn't important also let me know? Given size/weight - air freight isn't really a good option, so would need to be sent via ship / pallet. Can you also give me an idea of what kind of ball park pricing you would expect these at? I suspect there is maybe 1 or 2 of us who really want these wheels. For the others it's a bit "meh".

Thanks Jeff, somewhat relieved to nearly be done with it. 1 of the other blokes in the class said I must have a lot of patience because he would have thrown the towel in ages ago. I think that's a good thing. It certainly would have been quicker to find a better hatch in hindsight, but... they are getting really hard to find now. I toyed with the idea of importing 1 from the US but to go to that effort and expense / sandblast it and find similar bog / patch work would be disappointing. I think realistically finding these in rust free shape is pretty hard - even from a 'dry state'. So adding completely new 'thicker' metal is a good thing, plus once the car is painted I can stand back and think "I made that". I did get a bit of help with some of the final touches last night (nothing particularly difficult) from the teacher simply because I was kind of rushing hoping to get it done last night. But as it turns out, still not enough time. If anyone can share photos of the gaps they have on their cars it would be appreciated.

That was quick! Looks great.

If anyone can post pics of this gap on their cars? Just so I can get a feel for how much gap is normal. On my repaired hatch it's quite tight on either side. So may need to trim a mm or so at each edge..

After mocking it up on the car I made some notes of how much adjustment was required for each edge. Using a hammer and dolly I gently folded in each edge to fit to a specific arc.. Next after scribing the fold for the bottom lip. I started to fold the lip under for the lower portion of the hatch. The outer edges were a bit longer so got trimmed with tin snips. Very rough look from lower edge. I trimmed the edges of the hatch and after some adjustments (lots of little detail work not shown in between) it was tach welded into place using a MIG welder. Got it home tonight and just placed it on the car. I haven't tightened the fasteners on it yet. So it will pull up a little when that's done I'd imagine. Poor lighting again, but you can see the lower lip now looks much more adjusted. There is still about 1mm of overhang on the left hand side.. but until it's buttoned up properly will be hard to know if it requires changes etc.. A couple more shots for completeness... The gaps at the bottom of the hatch are really close. If anyone can post a photo of how much gap they have at the bottom of their hatches that would be really helpful since I don't have my 72 240z handy for comparison. I hope to have this hatch mostly finished after next week. Which is sadly the last week for the semester. But at least I'll be moving onto the next panel by then (I hope!).

HS30 103687 Now on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112011732879 See also. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=171756 Seller for sale thread here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14693-240z-british-green-webers-l28-great-condition-43k/

Go rare spares... the metal is so thin on the originals that even if you find 1 with minimal rust it's likely to need significant work and care to make work.

No problem I gave similar advice already here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=177619 for the same car. The white car above for $23,000 in comparison would work out much cheaper in the long run.. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=177607 Just the way things are, of course everyone's circumstances are different and therefore you may want a project car to chip away at over the next few years and not be prepared to sink $20k into a car right away.

Well a rusty rolling shell might be an option, but then you'll spend a lot more money in the long run sourcing all the missing bits + motor. Also buying a rusty shell means you'll have expensive rust repairs to deal with. Not sure what your skill set is or abilities to do that sort of thing yourself? But it generally works out much more expensive in the long run starting with the cheaper stuff.

Fairlady Z432. Early 1970 (January production apparently) http://page21.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j395121958 Apparently it was originally Silver, now white. Current Bid: 13,000,000 yen

No problem, but finding any S30Z now for around $2000 is going to be very difficult or very very rusty. Good luck.

This fits your budget. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/cockatoo/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z/1112497671

PM's replied to. These look to be spoken for, for now.

Hire a crane from Kennards or similar etc..makes life easier.

Bump? Anyone need these?

Thanks seen it, but since the original clocks are pretty unreliable I have the internals replaced with a Quartz movement unit instead. It's good that it's working though!

907 Green on early 70-71 240z's is close to a British racing green colour. This 260z is a metallic green. I would need to look up the code. It is a later colour and car. I like the colour also reminds me of a 260z 2+2 I test drove in Williamstown many years ago. It needed rust repair work but was a nice car. I decided to keep my 260z at the time.

Anyone here think the green 260z 2 seater will show up at the throttle shop soon?

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13091-why-you-shouldnt-buy-anything-from-edward-scissorhands-lee/

Don't worry I wasn't trying to rain on your parade. Just prepare you for what lies ahead. I'm going through a long process myself of restoring an early 240z but I've been around these cars for ages so I've seen it all (well actually sometimes I see something new and I can only laugh) but point is just ask questions because many of us have been there and done that already and will be happy to give the correct advice to get it done right. These cars are worth it, when done properly they are really a fantastic fast appreciating asset. Yes it will cost your 4x more than you probably think it will. However I don't regret spending a dollar on any of mine. If you're willing to roll up your sleeves and do some of the work yourself it's a very rewarding process.

Sadly I closed the image gallery on my phone so cannot find these now... *edit, can't keep a good man down! . http://www.carsales.com.au/gallery/SSE-AD-4061904/Image?index=0&gtsSaleId=SSE-AD-4061904&wt.z_driver=

http://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c556004906 $16,550.00 AUD.

Thanks I'll look into that, I will probably buy an air compressor and set up (rather than brush it on), I plan to use it to paint a load of stuff. The suspension components, fuel tank straps, basically anything black under the car. I'll do several coats and will likely thin it out that way.