gav240z

Welcome, 7 years is a long time to not post! There was a nice red 240z on CarSales but it may have sold? So only 2 listed. It's kind of restomodded, but more vintage performance. The only thing I don't like is the bonnet profile at the front appears to dip down (common on cars that have been hit in the front), the repair may be ok, but wasn't put back "right". It could also be the angle of the photo or perhaps the bonnet is slightly open (which makes it sit down lower toward the bumper). Hard to say for sure. Otherwise good buying. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1970-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-7122646/?Cr=1 If you want modern performance (and how modern is an RB26 anyway?) https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1971-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-6757746/?Cr=2 However I knew the car from before its conversion when it was owned by a fella named Lou and the body was by no means spectacular. However a conversion isn't cheap and neither is a straight 240z. So it is priced probably not far off what is reasonable to buy and build similar. If that's your thing.. Unfortunately prices reflect availability these days, and there isn't much.

Well you should see the earliest of earliest series 0.1 known as the Alpha series.

The problem I have with series 1, 1.5 or 2 is that it simply isn't referenced in any Nissan literature in reference to these cars. Rather it is a made up label mostly used by North American's to describe changes they saw to the HLS30 models (LHD cars). But you need to be aware that there was also an S30, HS30, and PS30 chassis series and what applies to 1 model line may not apply to others. When I quiz North American's what series 1.5 means, I get all kinds of rubbery responses around where it begins and ends, meaning it fails the acid test when put under the microscope. That's why it's the wrong question to ask. When you look at the S30Z series, as @HS30-Hhas stated many times before, you need to look at it as a family of cars (S30Z series) not a series of 240z. Since they were Nissan Fairlady Z, Fairlady 240z, Fairlady 240ZG, Fairlady 432 and Fairlady 432R models, as well as a Datsun 240z in export markets. If you look in the parts manual of these cars you'll find that there was many incremental changes and part no. changes often at intervals of months (not just years) and so you can't always say a 71 240z is a series 2 (because in North America at least - I've seen 71 models with vents in the rear hatch still). And often what people "mean" by series 1 is vented rear hatch and solid c pillars. In part this is due to build date, vs delivery date vs sold date. North American cars had an ID plate in the door jamb indicating month / year of manufacture. However Australian delivered 240z's did not, instead we got a compliance plate (which is closer to date of arrival into country). C.A.F may have his hands on #211 - but it's not a great reference car because it's missing a lot of the early components. Some of which I'll no doubt be helping source. If you look in our forum signatures though you'll note that I own HS30 00150 and C.A.F owns HS30 00149. And some of us on here own even earlier cars - which again have differences not seen on later early cars. For example HS30 00051 has the Nissan 2400 OHC valve cover, but HS30 00149 and HS30 00150 did not come with that cover originally. Does this mean only HS30 00051 is a series 1? Are HS30 00150 and HS30 00149 - both series 1.5? Hopefully you can begin to see the flaws in calling these cars by a series identifier with this example, but I could rattle off many many more..

I'm not sure what Phil is doing with the data or how useful he's going to make it to the wider public. I've spent many many hours collecting and building the dataset. I don't think I'd be willing to hand it over unless I know what the plans for the data are or how it will be used?

Different again since your car is an RS30 (2 seater 260z) the OP was quoting a GRS30 (2+2). Unfortunately I do not have a registry for 260z's, I only started collecting data on 240z's and that keeps me busy enough! If someone is eager to start recording details on 260z and 2+2's I would be happy to help get them started.

Someone else signed up recently asking for similar information here, have a read. But perhaps you can start a new thread about your car? I know early 240z's very well and can point you in the right direction re: specs and fit out.

Screenshot from Google webmaster tools report. Looks like Edward Lees is popular.

It's very clean, haven't seen an S130z that neat in a while.

Might be worth a look. Perhaps a manual swap?

Hi Folks, This came through the club mailing list. Please reach out to Kate who is selling on behalf of her mum. Model: 300ZX 50th Anniversary edition Year: 1984 Odometer: 163,000 Location: Gold Coast Price: $12,500 Contact: Kate 0435 658 134 Condition: Original paint & interior both in excellent condition. Car has not been driven for 4-5 years, but has been started recently. One female owner for majority of the time, fully garaged.

Only that it was listed around $86k and was under offer. Then appears to have fallen through and been relisted. Now price has been dropped. Looks like a decent car from photos and description. Obviously do your due diligence.

Some photos of what you have and are working with would help. Got a photo of compliance plate for example? That may help determine if it was an automatic or a manual from factory. Look under the dash at the glove box. There is Japanese writing often on the bottom of the dash that indicates market and transmission / option. In many cases. It's likely if your car was manual it would have had the dual choke (hand throttle) in it. Autos had a blanking plate. No Australian delivered 240z had hazards I'm afraid. You need to add it in. I can check my 71 wiper switch, but pretty sure it had intermittent and 2 more speeds. In terms of Aussie sites to learn more about these cars. You have arrived here. This is it... Nissan Australia appears to have lost records many years ago in a big office move in Melbourne City. So the best we can do is add information to the registry of data I've been putting together. Was your car 919 yellow from factory?

When you say specs what are you after exactly?

Anything higher than HS30-00500 no longer will have the vented hatch and solid c-pillars. A 71 is still an early car, but doesn't have the very early car outside details like the vented hatch and solid C pillars. But it will still have the early console, dual choke set up and early seat recliners. Along with a myriad of other small details.

Hi Tony, What is the VIN # of your car? 71's didn't have the vented hatches.

I was gonna take my distributor there to recurve it, do you know how much timing they put into yours total? Mine seems to be too aggressive and pings if I open WOT all the way.

I imported a Carcoon from the UK got shafted on import duty. $300 GST + $300 in import duty,

https://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700900018830190614001/index.html The car is back in Japan and now for sale again.

Yes, I was very impressed with the work done by Auto Panel Solutions. I had ordered a similar section from a vendor in Canada and it was very thick steel and wouldn't curve the way I wanted without a lot of extra work. Spent weeks with my panel beater teachers to try and make it work and still wasn't happy with the result. The Auto Panel Solutions section was done to OEM specification (exhaust cut out in particular was exactly the same as OEM).

Yes, in my tafe course we used a heat sink (thick bit of metal behind the weld) to try and absorb the heat of the weld and prevent blow through. In my experience if the metal is thin enough, it will just blow a bigger hole and you'll chase your tail.. especially when using Oxy/Acetylene and a filler rod. If would often be better/quicker to just cut a section out and weld fresh metal in. By the time you mig up an area, sand/grind it's similar time invested. I don't know about welding to rust converter, but once you've cleaned rust away (wire wheel or similar), then you can spray down some weld through primer. (such as uPol Weld-through, zinc-rich primer).

JDM car parts often says he won't ship certain items international I've found. I believe you get taxed on total orders about $1,000 not individual. For large items I've used USAtoAus.com - like panels, steel wheels etc.. but it's a slightly painful experience.

Yes, looks like you're in Miami so you should have options re: US suppliers. Motorsport Auto for example will likely have a kit you can buy. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08a02 Tan kit. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08a02a/40-4493

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/funny-inspiration-posters-832116/

Also rotary's consume fuel like a V8 before you increase overlap via port work. Good for a track car and early turbo spool, but I think it makes them a pig in traffic with high idle and the noise etc.. :).