gav240z

What he said... Lovely car though! Be interesting to see what it fetches after the white 1 with blue interior on eBay here in NSW.

It's as if I can hear clicks on Alan's keyboard from here...but it does have some nice period footage at least.

Jeff you can get lower door sections here. https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978.html

Made in 1973 sold in 1974. That's some pricey rust too! It will not be an easy restoration. But it is RHD.

Thanks for heads up!

What they said.. just what I need for #150 actually. Lol. Even month stamp is about right!

Oh my what a deal. Topy steelies and D caps NOS. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182853302470

By the way p90a lifters look like this. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401412087106

Peter you driving down solo or with folks?

Nice manifold similar to the Harada type. Shame no linkages.

They look like S5 style yes based on the float chamber lids. However I believe there can be subtle differences between carbs made for OE applications vs. more generic ones available through Mikuni as aftermarket parts. Like I mentioned I don't know if the casting differences in the ones here will make any difference to tuning and performance. There is a Mikuni group on Facebook with experts who have more knowledge of these carbs than I. Might be worth asking the question there.

https://touch.trademe.co.nz/motors/listing/view/1447484374 Starting cheap. But casting looks like the other 3 carbs above.

The bottom left carb has a different casting to the other 3. Not sure if this would make any difference however? As I believe they should work the same, but 1 may have been fitted to an OEM application. There is a single 40mm carb on Trade me.co.nz that looks like it's a match for the bottom left hand corner carb with the red part no. Sticker on it. In fact if you Google the part no. I often get results for Toyota engines like 18RG etc.. which gives you an idea where they came from originally.

Ian did you get a look at the white 1?

If I have to I'll sand it with the head of a tooth brush haha.

Hey Peter, what OEM switch do you have and what is broken with it? I am looking to 3D print the internal plastic rocket switch part to fix a broken 1 myself.

I would talk to James Flett at MIA engines in DeeWhy also about your options, budget and want you want to farm out in terms of machine work etc..

Hi Jeff, I don't know if my N42s have a complete set of valves so may need to source more as p90 valve stems are longer than N42 so can't be directly swapped. I also took a camshaft out for my E31 head (internally oiled) swapped for the external spray bar set up on early cars. Re: comp ratios if I recall correctly flat top pistons with an N42 head yields a 10:1 compression ratio. There was an online L-series engine calculator years ago on Ozdat.com but I think it died. You could try this though! http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/enginemodellingsoftware/index.html However it's not entirely accurate so use it as a reference point not the gospel. I was just down your way yesterday, should have dropped by with the heads ?

I mentioned on the Youtube channel, but I think some P90A's had solid lifters. So you may not need to swap your ones over.

Yeah I was thinking about the sandblast cabinet and being a bit rough on the fins. Won't do that now, paint stripper it is!

http://tentenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78309 I struggled to find this thread again after seeing it a while back, thought I should bookmark it this time and those with interest in historic racing may also enjoy!

Jack I'm semi weary of approving first posts that flog goods. What are you offering that say ordering direct via Watanabe doesn't offer?

What he said basically. If you want an N42 I have 2, would swap 1 with a P90a if it suits you? I would not shave the P90, it's the wrong way to go about upping compression in my opinion. Much harder to add material back than to take it off. P90's are better when they have combustion chambers welded up (more expensive). The Kameari timing chain tensioner kit is a bit expensive (for a budget build) but gives the motor a nice sound (like an S20 motor). I would almost buy 1 for that noise Your existing camshaft can be reground to suit profile you need. Don't worry about corrosion on it. As mentioned speak to Clive Cams. Go 74 degree cam (that's what I want in mine).

Yes 260z/280z dashboards are the same, as for steering racks yes. The biggest challenge would be modifying the firewall I'd imagine. In my opinion I wouldn't bother with RHD/LHD conversion, just import and enjoy. For costs try this. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=151240

SOLD ON 10/17/17 FOR $38,250 (approx $49k AUD). That's a good price for a not quite original HLS30...