gav240z

This milkshake will bring all the boys (or girls) to the yard.. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-38/ 1973 Datsun 240Z Race Car Bob Sharp Car. Current price: $60k USD.

Rare in that size, I sold 1 carb a while back for about $300. So if you can get a matched set of 3 for $1,200 I reckon that's not bad.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263288701938 Triple 48 Dellorto's.

I might have 1 soon, I'm waiting on 1 to be imported and willing to sell another spare I have (needs a little work). Just waiting until I have the new 1 before getting rid of the old.

But you got to drive it right? How did you enjoy that?

They are held in with screws from factory, compliance plates from what I've seen were riveted.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mazda-R100-1969/SSE-AD-5058133/?Cr=0 1969 Mazda R100 M10A Manual Only asking $120,000.

Going a bit off topic, but I've always wanted an HS30-H (in Maroon GP), there is a lot of replica's in Japan made from later S31 Fairlady Z's, they get the rear lamps changed for the earlier style and have the ZG appendages added. I'd definitely own 1 and enjoy it. It would be a better built car, but a factory HS30-H would also be lovely to own. The replica would cost about 1/3 of the real deal though! Example of replica. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14448-the-global-z-car-s30s130-market-thread/?p=197298

If you plug small holes with filler water will get into it and cause the paint to crack and flake and promote rust. The solder bonds to the metal, you can then file it down and paint it. Personally if I was the OP I'd put those horrid things back on until such a time that I was preparing to repaint the car. There is no easy way to deal with them without filling them and painting the area again. You make get away with tiny spot repairs, but bit of a gamble.

We will have to agree to disagree, but Mr Market doesn't care about driveline vibrations or poor ventilation. Besides it's easier to get high on petrol fumes, which helps when paying astronomical prices for these cars.

I was going to say, how did you 2+2 turn into a 2 seater? Did someone get a grinder out? I personally like the weathered original ID plate and would retain it, there was a 240z listed for sale not long ago with a reproduction plate that didn't quite look right. It flew up red flags for me immediately, it was only after studying the car in detail that I realised there was nothing wrong with it. (it was indeed the correct engine no. for that year/spec etc..). Interestingly you don't have your engine no. stamped on your ID plate? So how does 1 verify no's matching cars when it comes to 260z 2+2's? This was the same for Japanese Home Market cars and some European markets too! Which is why I often wonder if the numbers matching is important (it is) but is it?

Thanks for that, 918 it must be..Which matches the other cars that came after it. If you get a chance to share the engine no. I'd appreciate it. As this can be a helpful reference point in and of itself.

Yes I agree, it's sad to see it in this shape, but it's also why the remaining cars will continue to be valuable. How many early cars are left now? Actually I can somewhat answer that, of the first 500 HS30's I've accounted for around 120 cars. But even fewer will be matching no's, even fewer will be on the road, even fewer original, and I haven't subtracted all the decreased ones from that figure (which I was able to account for). So let's for argument sake say there is less than 100 left in questionable condition. If you have an early 1 with hatch vents you're part of a very exclusive club of fabulous people who have excellent parties and you're held in high regard at social events. LOL... I don't have meticulous records of how many are no's matching. But suffice to say I'd say numbers matching is often exception and not the rule. Many early cars had L28's slotted in them.

Geez, way to rain on a parade..not saying you guys are wrong by the way. Just seems we're all incredibly negative in here today. Anything can be done with enough skill and patience. Refer to this Mazda R100 rescue job. These now routinely sell for 6 figures, the Mazda Savanna RX-3 coupe I posted on here not long ago for $90k appears to have sold... I think S30Z's will get there soon (if not already in certain countries/regions of the globe).. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/mazda-garage/288725-saving-a-rusty-r100 The person who bought it may have the skills already to tackle it. I hope it gets saved, more cars saved and kept going the better chance we have for investment in replacement parts in future.

Ok, ok let's all play nice. FWIW, HS30 00340 is being restored and it looked in similar shape. https://goo.gl/photos/g9ieJBGgJ4YuLpbA7 Best way to fix said car, import a relatively straight and cheap HLS30 from the US and cut it up for sections to rebuild an HS30.

Rally Clock with BYO Oscillator Box. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u167920895 Good candidate for a digital Oscillator (since the tuning fork and board are missing).

You could use body solder. Although a bit different to this method (I couldn't find 1 on Youtube). You can literally melt solder (onto the body) so it's very low heat. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12272-separating-bonnet-skin-and-frame/?p=195771 Very very low heat, so literally no distortion in this method and best way to fill tiny holes.

LOL, it's those blue interiors that get me! Not the vents. PS: Warky - Did you manage to confirm what the chassis no. is? Would be great to know engine no. and it's original colour (if you know what it was?) I enter the information into a register.

I am and would but 1 man only has so many lifetimes. Great for someone with foolish enthusiasm like me. ?

If you get $3.5 - 4.5k you're doing well... That needs a whole lotta love. Probably worth that in parts to be honest. Great for someone with little money and lots of time and expertise.

Why don't you tell us what figure helps you break that sentimental tie to it?

Don't do it fellas it's for a bloody Porka On a serious note: If anyone can help out Sulio that would be great.

I doubt it's what I'm looking for, but what is the engine no.? Also is the block a P30 block or E31 block (early)? Casting code is under exhaust side of the block in the middle. I would think a running driving and non-smoke blowing L24 has got to be worth at least $2k (when you consider cost of rebuilding a motor) but I tend to view the value of things different to many others these days. Mostly because an L24 is only getting harder to source. I guess it also depends on if it still has the old style valve seats (brass for leaded fuel) and if you know it's history in terms of rebuilds etc..? Could have come out of a 240K or other L24 powered Datsun/Nissan with a less aggressive cam profile also. Or the later fuel injected Skyline's, what cylinder head does it have? E31 cast heads are more desirable to many than E88's (early ones not later Skyline F.I ones) or other castings...

Bit of a rare bird this 1. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-1971-Honda-Coupe-9-s-classic-Suit-mazda-datsun-toyota-fiat-nissan/122771351707 RARE 1971 Honda Coupe 9 Asking: AU $35,000.00

If your L24 is the original 1 that came with your car, don't sell it.