gav240z

1970 Fairlady Z-L https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l419011562 Currently at: 3,500,001 yen (~$43k AUD) with 12 bids and 11 days to go. Hood/Bonnet has a bit of a dip at the front... indication of a front-end nudge.

Even if I get a better 1, I'll probably still try and repair the 1 off #150 just as part of the learning process. I've already started, and want to finish. Will likely sell cheap after or keep as a spare. But I do have another point of contact for sections like these. However need to import a few panels first and see how quickly they sell and at what prices before going ahead with bigger container loads.

Currently in negotiation regarding these bits.... The first roof has a bit of rust around leading edge (windscreen and not uncommon) but shouldn't be too hard to patch (much better than in the middle. I will probably keep the rear valance for my own restoration at this stage but looking to import the rest. I will do my best to keeping pricing of everything fair, but it's not going to be cheap. However how many local options do you have these days?

If you're willing to spend $400 USD on Toyota Hilux brakes before cost of discs etc.. and potential brake booster upgrades go for it. However if you're going to spend that much may as well spend a bit more and go Wilwood's. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html It all depends on your type of driving and what you're using your car for. Too many people get caught up in buying upgrades without considering if they really need it, or just want it. To just want it, is fine. But you may find that changes to the stock brakes give you all you need? My stock brakes feel a bit wooden, however I need to bleed them, replace pads (better compound) and resurface or replace discs and use braided lines first before going that far with it. As mentioned above, stick tyres count for a lot of braking performance. Always sensible advice here.

Anyone need any of these sections?

Hey Gordon was it originally brown or is that rust coloured?

If you're buying it under no illusion that it may be hiding some poor panel repairs in the past it is ok.. Something about the dog leg area just doesn't sit right...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1528299563880689 Automatic 72 240z for sale in the US on Facebook. Asking $12k, looks relatively original and good shape.

Yeah was thinking I'd put a 13b turbo in with this behind it with upgraded stall converter. Grandpa would be proud.

Thanks for the gearbox mate!

By the way if anyone can tell me the chassis no's for the WA car and the Silver 73 (with UK style bumper). I'd appreciate it, as I'll add it to the records!

Sadly it appears that not many are left in great shape these days. They all have dotted history. Even my 72 240z has had some rust repairs I'm not entirely happy with, still a great car but it wasn't repaired to a standard I'd hold myself to, as I'm sure many others were not either! The more I look the more I realise how difficult it is to find a true time capsule car.

Time...

Hmmm not sure how good the ex-UK car is (if it is indeed an ex-UK car). But it certainly is a better starting point than the other 3. Outside of that the WA car which is an auto 72 model looks like a reasonable buy for a project oriented buyer.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-Triple-Mikuni-40PHH-36-Venturi-Horns-and-Extra-Jets/263345096796 Triple 40mm Mikuni's. AU $1,300.00 buy it now.

I will need to check for you next time I'm down there. Just got another auto box today which is the slip in yoke style as a spare. So kind of hoping it's the later style. PB260 has donated an original style fuel pump and Locky donated the insulator for mounting it. So now just need to get some fuel lines and hose clamps etc..

Let's see what Mr Market says... I see some positives and negatives. Depends how long it's been sat in that spot for unloved...

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gympie/auto-body-parts/datsun-240-z-sports-/1166772795 $12,000.00 Seller name: Gavin (not me) HS30 103500 It's been painted 907 Green, but it's original colour is the later Green 113 (metallic)

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/attadale/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z/1166858751 Attadale, WA Says it's auto. Asking $10k This photo confirms the auto box.

Back up for sale. HS30 01311 (It's a 71) https://photos.app.goo.gl/NDfi7V7Ql9KyBp5j1 See also: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=195181 1970 Datsun 240 original $15,000.00 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/liverpool/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-240-original-/1167074898

By the way Bruce took some video, not sure what he captured and didn't. Hopefully he got some footage of it being given wide open throttle? Another thing to mention is that my car already had an E88 head on an F54 (L28 block) with bigger N42 size valves and port work and a mild camshaft (we don't know profile yet). So I actually think the SU's could not keep up with the engine modification and that's why it was a bit of a pig before. My old 240z HS30 102895 ran great on SUs but it did fall flat around 5,500 rpm as they all do stock.

I don't know it's weight, but it won't drain much power if not engaged. Besides if you remove the old clutch fan you'll save about 15-20 HP to offset it anyway.

If you go at night and someone comes up to your car and asks you if you're here for the 'dogging' you say no.. Just Cars magazine is always priced a little high, but given it's a 2 seater I think price is justified. I only know of a handful of such examples in the country. So whilst there is a small market there is limited supply to go with.

I reckon a set of Triple Mikunis 44s is the single best modification I've done to the car. It has totally transformed the car. It used to have loads of torque down low on the SUs but mid range and high rpm felt completely flat. Now the car seems to pull like a train all the way to redline. It feels really quick, I drove my Rx7 home last night from Peter's place and realised it's not nearly as quick as that, but it certainly has an equivalent thrill about it. It's hard to know if the exhaust change, gearbox rebuild with close ratio or Mikuni's is responsible or a combination of all 3 but the car certainly is 100x more fun to drive. It does ping a little if you're not careful at say a hill incline and stamp on it, but we put some octane booster in with a tank fill up and that seemed to stop it. So it could still use a proper distributor curve and possibly dyno tune to get it 100% spot on. I suspect the needles in the SUs were for an L24 and not the SM needles for an L28. So might explain the lack of top end power. However the real big difference is that I can now rev it to 6500-7000rpm and it still feels like it wants to rev and has power. A small thing I noticed was the Datsun Competition wheel made it better through some twisty country roads, over the bigger wooden wheel. Peter and Bruce were in the 260z 2+2 behind us and said it sounded pretty good and angry ?. Seemed to look quick from their perspective too! Has a good deep bass tone down low compared to a more raspy tone before. I think Lachlan wanted a drive but I was having too much fun. Looking forward to driving it again actually. The brakes are a bit wooden on it, so may need new pads / resurface discs and fluid change. I'd like a set of MK63s up front with vented discs ideally. It's only money. ? I have the white 71 240z in NSW at the moment and managed to get a fuel pump for it off Peter so will try and get that going soon.

I have some photos here also. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mlsYEcysGyTIQGyA2 But still uploading some via wifi.