gav240z

Aww there is a pic of Warren. Makes me feel a bit sad.

Welcome, we chatted on Facebook. Good to see another early car will be saved. Always good to hear how these cars are unearthed. Finding body panels is getting harder these days. If you need help let me know? I've been importing stuff (fairly piece meal at this stage) from the US. Front half is easier than rear half, but even 2+2s are rare these days and not being parted put the same anymore. Any idea what engine swap it had previously? Or where all the parts went? I recommend sticking with L-series, can be a lot of fun with Triples. But to each their own. Also 905 red factory cars is quite rare. 918 orange is actually 1 of the most common colours they were made in.

I'm in Melbourne around mid June. So wouldn't be able to make that date. But am in favour of a run. Will bring the Rx7. Might also be time for the missus to have a drive of it too.

Think about the blooper reel potential! As I said on the YouTube comments I used a heat gun from about 30 cms out and it worked really well. Good consistent wrinkles is what you want. Although sadly sanding down the letters left a dullish grey over my red paint that wouldn't come off. So I have to mask it again and repaint a couple of coats to give it that nice deep redish look again. Only thing I'm not sure about is how durable the paint is and how long it will look good for. I would like to get a powder coating set up and second hand electric oven in future. I had my brake calipers powdercoated recently and that stuff seems very durable.

I figured they were replicas, but good to have confirmation.

Good preview of Kobe Seiko Gotti wheels on a Skyline during this video.

I'm thinking of doing this with the gold car...

I reckon Bowral would be a good drive and nice half way point.

I was thinking that might happen. Oh well..

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/8236-my-trip-to-rocky-auto-in-japan/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14876-chasing-zs-or-hakos-or-any-cool-japanese-car-museumshops-in-toyko/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/9944-going-to-toyko-datsun-museums-historic-car-collections-suggestions/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14287-new-z-for-perth/?p=170128 Probably a good place to start.

Bump - reminder it's this week, anyone else interested in attending?

Beat me while replying, in a way that's what I was hinting

Yeah the other option is to look at a radiator that is about the stock size and then have brackets fabricated to work with the stock mounting points? Someone who is good with TIG welding should be able to do it. Not sure what the mighty car mods boys did with their RB26 conversion? But it looked like it mounted up to stock mounting locations. I've got a Koyo Radiator on my FD RX-7 - rotary's get real hot and so you have to make sure you have good cooling on them. I've not had any problems with it and it was around 300-400 euro when I bought it (was living in Europe at the time). I'm sure you could find a nice Koyo that would be a good size and just modify mounting points to work. I agree it shouldn't cost $1,200.. I generally like to support local companies over ones that make products cheaper in Asia.. but in some cases the price difference is hard to ignore. I don't know dimensions off the top of my head.. but you can see a few examples here. http://www.koyoradracing.com/products/radiators.asp?make=Nissan The other option would be to look at modifying the stock radiator as mentioned to accept more cores. I had Alexandria Radiator service modify my 240z radiator by keeping the end tanks and using a new core (three core over the old 2 core), price was reasonable at around $300. http://www.alexandriaradiatorservice.com.au/ The guy working there told me the metals used in the old components is far superior to the cheap stuff they see these days - on a lot of new cars etc.. he said it isn't intended to last, compared with the old stuff that can be re-welded up and repaired and continue to be good for many years.

That sort of racing makes me nervous, 2 very different cars in terms of abilities. That's when you're likely to end up exchanging paint. The Falcon has a lot of power down the straights but can't maintain speed through the corners and it's a bit of a tank with how wide it is. ? You could tell he was under pressure not to lose ground and that made him make mistakes.

Turns out, the ones I bought as a job lot. Only really 3 complete sets, the rest was lots of odds and ends. Not sure what I'll do with all the spare bits yet. But plan to have 3 sets rebuilt and sent back. Will likely keep 1 set for myself and sell the other 2.

Around the corner from me, but didn't answer the phone when I tried. It was a Friday however.

Sure but Hitachi SUs are the only way to go for originality.

Thanks I'm rebuilding my own set here and may speak with them re: bushings. I already ordered a rebuild kit from Ztherapy.

Maybe speak with PWR they do custom radiators etc..? https://www.pwr.com.au/#

It's row 381 of 410 in my spreadsheet of HS30's. So not quite the last, but definitely the tail end. I shared the sheet with Kats on classiczcars.com recently and he found the data very useful, said he would help supply home market HS30 information. So that would probably fill quite a lot of gaps in the existing sheet and bring us closer to understanding how many were sent here.

It's ok, I'm not serious. Or am I? ? It looks like a good car though and very original. It should be an interesting 1 to watch.

Oh la la, I don't have a 73 yet.

What seat foam did you use? Did you patch up the old or use all new?

+1 x4 for 4 cars.

More than just cars..