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Oh yeah, and I also got Lock to install my genuine Z JDM fender mirrors I gave it a decent crack today as well. I gave the whole car a decent wash for the first time, and then spent about 3 hours grinding the window tint off the rear hatch (awful job!) Ready for the my first hill run tomorrow :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

This week I finally get the colour onto my 240z. It has almost been 12 months of work to get to this point, and it still has a long way to go, but it is great to reach this milestone.

I think Lock is keen to let people know what he's been doing... Inspect 240Z for RWC requirements. Remove Left rear strut assemblys, fill with light oil & retighten gland nut correctly. Adjust LH front wheel bearing. Remove LH front indicator assembly and repair cracks in lense. Tighten steering shaft coupling bolt. Remove rear number plate light and replace both bulbs (one had blown). Remove Right rear strut assembly, fill with light oil & tighten gland nut correctly. Measure rear brake drums - both on maximum tolerence. Remove Left front headlight as it was loose, clean up bolt threds and mounting holes and reinstall headlight. Replace oilpressure switch with good s/hand unit. Trace Oil pressure wire in loom, re-terminate & check OP gauge works. Drop fuel tank and inspect - tank very rusty. Procure new tank. Adjust fuel gauge sender to work correctly. Remove gearbox from vehicle, find incorrect clutch slave cylinder, clutch fork, T/O bearing carrier and bearing fitted. Procure correct S/Clylinder, fork & bearing carrier. Find incorrect bolts fitted to clutch pressure plate. Procure correct bolts. Find gearbox mounting holes to be streached and damaged, Drill out and Heli-coil, procure bolts with correct thread pitch. Remove clutch pressure plate & clan off excess anti-seize. Refit with correct bolts. Refit gearbox and adjust clutch. Check diff oil level and drain excess out. Find incorrect parts fitted to steering shaft in engine bay - procure replacement items. Paint strip bottom of replacemant fuel tank. Knock out dent in bottom of tank. Etch prime annd respray bottom of tank. Install fuel tank. Change steering column bush orientation to correct factory setting. Make and fit bungs over extra holes in front indicators. Remove broken grill and assess for repair. Reinstall exhaust with new band clamps on secondarys, Re-align muffler and make new muffler mounting drop bracket. Adjust handbrake to 5 clicks. Wire up thermo fan. Fill fuel tank with 20ltrs of fresh Premium unleaded. Start and run engine. Fabricate Alum. mounting brackets to mount radiator thermo fan. Remove RH door from vehicle, then remove hinges from body. Press out old pins and measure bushes for machining to correct thickness. Remove window tint of RH door glass. Reassemble RH door hings with new pins and bushes, then reinstall door back onto vehicle. Remove LH door from vehicle, then remove hinges from body. Press out old pins and measure bushes for machining to correct thickness. Remove window tint of LH door glass. Reassemble LH door hings with new pins and bushes, then reinstall door back onto vehicle. Perform nut and bolt check on vehicle - find that a lof of the fastners were loose or not tight enough. Remove RH rear flare off vehicle. Remove seam sealer from RH rear arch join. Panel beat arch join then fully weld join together. Linish welds. Paint with KBS Rust seal. Remove LH rear flare off vehicle. Remove seam sealer from LH rear arch join. Panel beat arch join then fully weld join together. Linish welds. Paint with KBS Rust seal. Drop off Z to have RW Check performed. And then the RW mechanics had a go as well...

Phew! What a hiatus! Since the last post only small changes have been made. The car survived the 4.5 hour drive from Toowoomba to Bundy in one continuous run back in April 2017. It used about 10l/100k which I thought was odd but put further investigation on the low priority pile. Upon checking with the LM2 the cruise to WOT section of the needle was indeed running very lean. I promptly ordered RU and RV needles to see if that would fix the problem. The RV needles got near perfect AFR at top end but cruise sat at about 10:1. Humph! I settled on a half baked band aid measure of lifting the floats up a few mm and sticking the SM needles back in. This made things a little richer (13.5:1 approx at WOT) but is not the long term solution I desire. If you plan to maintain the Hitachi SUs on your car yourself I can not recommend enough getting a ‘Float-sync’ tool. I’m not sure if they are still manufactured but they are bloody helpful when setting the floats! I got mine from here: https://zcardepot.com/carburetor-float-sync-tool-su-240z.html That was around October 2017. Fast forward to now, I am able to ‘donate’ more of my time the ol’ girl. I have set a goal to aim for 200RWHP on the SUs without opening the engine. I have a spiel on the plan on my YouTube channel which can be seen here. The three areas to focus efforts are: - Removing the recycled section between the Zstory headers and muffler and putting something better flowing in - New or custom needles for the carbs to get the AFRs where they should be - Muck with the advance profile in the dizzy. Currently the ‘all in’ advance is far to low. I’m thinking MSD 6AL-2 with locked dizzy or repurpose the MS1 I have on the shelves with a CAS. After all this is done it’ll be off to the dyno. If I don’t get 200 aitch pees I can always bust open the motor and port the head to the buggery, swap in a new cam or just admit defeat and put triples or EFI on it!

Looking good for tomorrow. 8.30am chat , 9.00am drive. Bring a CB radio if you have one and 3/4 tank of fuel. Could be a lot of Zeds ,can’t wait to see you guys.

Thats looking hectic Jeff nice colour choice. Can't wait to see it all painted. Haha been wanting to see what colour you would choose

Looking good Jeff. congrats on such a big milestone. looking forward to seeing it in the sun.

Door lock clips are pretty universal....local wreckers should have something.