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Posted

So i have a 240z project which came with the original L24 block. Appears to have been rebuilt and feels pretty nice to turn over.

 

Just bought a complete running L26 for the parts i need to make the L24 run, but very tempted to throw it in.

 

 

So i'm wondering how much more will the car be worth with a matching number L24 over an L26?

 

If L26 would give buyer original L24 block with the car.

 

 

Just wanted some advice from people that are in the loop.

 

 

Thanks, Ryan

Posted

I'd hazard a guess that no one really cares about matching numbers on Zeds, unless you have yourself a very early 240 then original motor might be worth something to someone.

Posted

I think the L24 is worth something sentimentally and financially if it has matching numbers and i have a '73 model. Obviously at 40 years old it's going to be rebuilt to not be a flogged out rod box.

Just stick the L24 under your work bench like i did and build up an L28 if you want any sort of power, L26s suck!

post-873-144023695093_thumb.jpg

Posted

lol i'm sure the 26 will go fine, got a big cam, apparently it's very loud which means more fast. Not sure if i'm going to keep it at this point so just want it to work for now.

 

Obviously it would be better with the original engine but it's effort i'd rather spend on the body, especially if it's not going to make a massive difference to cost.

 

 

can anyone give a rough price guide from what they've seen?

 

Say the car would sell for 20k with the L26, how much more(if any) would it sell for with the original matching number block?

Posted

The L24 is a far better motor, short stoke, and gets up quickly in rev's, throws you back in the seat and fun to drive, the L26 has longer stoke and more suited for a family drive with wife and kids eating a pie while you drive.

Posted

I don't know what the NSW rego laws are, but my understanding is that in SA you can only get historic/club rego if you have matching numbers, which you may or may not want to look into depending on what your plans for the car are.

Posted

I don't know what the NSW rego laws are, but my understanding is that in SA you can only get historic/club rego if you have matching numbers, which you may or may not want to look into depending on what your plans for the car are.

 

Phwwwaaaahh really?! That sucks hard. Lucky I've got mine, but I still think historic reg laws are a little over the top...

 

OP; Personally think it depends on what your plans for the car are. If you're keeping the car original, matching engine is a plus in my books. But if not, just stow it away in storage/

  • Moderators
Posted

As long as the L24 block is in good usable condition, I'd keep it under the bench and go with the L26 or L28 and go nuts. You don't want to regret later getting rid of the block for nothing when it's more valuable to stay with the car it was built with.

Posted

I have an early Z without matching engine. Would i like the matching engine YES

I dont think it will make any difference to the value of the car, as long as its an L engine

in there the difference would be bugger all.

 

I don't know what the NSW rego laws are, but my understanding is that in SA you can only get historic/club rego if you have matching numbers, which you may or may not want to look into depending on what your plans for the car are.

 

Doesnt need to be matching numbers engine for historic/club rego, It does need to be correct engine for the car.

so not an RB or LS1. Any L series 6 cylinder will work.

 

Cheers

Paul

Posted

The L24 is a far better motor, short stoke, and gets up quickly in rev's, throws you back in the seat and fun to drive, the L26 has longer stoke and more suited for a family drive with wife and kids eating a pie while you drive.

+1  ;D

I have a L28 in mine. I once drove another members' L24 with mild cam and triple webers and I was grinning from ear to ear. It didn't feel as fast as my L28 but it was damn more fun to drive and probably in reality faster, and definetely more suited to track work too. So I would much prefer the L24.

 

But going back to your original question, shoving a L26 or L28 is not a big deal, it's not like you're shoving a V8 in it. Not that there is anything wrong with that either.

 

Just enjoy your zed now, and not worry about future value. In my opinion, these cars are not investments. If you are worried about future values, go buy a house.

 

cheers, Mike

  • Administrators
Posted

I've kept my L24 block (last owner put E88 head on the L28 block) but I like the fact that it's numbers matching. Currently has the L28 in it. So I've kept it under a work bench in the garage. Just in case 1 day I want to go fully original with it.

Posted

We see a lot of 240Z's that have been bought or sold for roadworthys. Cars with matching numbers always appeal to the discerning cashed up older buyer for far more $$$$$

Fill your 240 engines bores/plug holes with oil & stash it. The 260Z motor was a stroked 240 - bit of a pig. Go nuts with a 89mm bore 10 to 1 flat top  3lt N42 block & head L28 - have a ball & when the funs all over you can sell your car as an original matching number car then have another $ale of the party bits.

The old 2 valve engine tuners formula for power was 100hp per litre at the fly wheel. 600cc more under your bonnet automatically = 60 more horse power at the fly wheel.

A rough formula to convert to KW @ the RW is deduct a third  for frictional loss through the drive line then another third to convert from RW horse power to KW ~ 130 RWKW

Posted

 

can anyone give a rough price guide from what they've seen?

 

Say the car would sell for 20k with the L26, how much more(if any) would it sell for with the original matching number block?

 

For me being an older guy at 52, If I looked at a 240z for $20k and it had a 260 or 280 motor in it, I would drop the price down to 10k or I would walk, The only reason to buy a car like this is would be to add to a collection, not as a daily driver, if you had the correct numbered motor under the bench I would come up to 13K, I have no idea what is wrong and how much needed to get it back in and running with it in the car.  I would pay the 20k if the matching number motor was in the car and running sweat and would not take the 260 motor if it was under the bench.

Hope that helps you.

Posted

As someone who (sadly) is also getting close to fitting the "older buyer" tag and has been keeping an eye out for a zed for a while now, I'd agree.

 

All other things being equal, I would pay the highest price for a car with its original engine, slightly less if it had a replacement (but correct type) engine or an all-out, highly modified L28, and then considerably less if it had a standard or close to standard L26 or L28 engine.

Posted

Good topic here Gents and one worth discussing given the growing age and collectability of these cars.

 

In other circles, ie Euro cars, having matching numbers is crucial to value, but in Zeds, I do get a sense that matching everything is ultimately less relevant. Having said that, when I made a a decision about doing my car (the Brown Hornet) on this forum, I was advised by James Flett that a 240Z is just that, and the L24 properly tuned is the right choice.

 

Having gone to the lengths I have with the car, I am very very glad I stuck with the L24, which whilst not matching numbers, is the right engine for the car, with the correct period type embellishments, ie carbs, cam, internals and the like.

 

I've heard it said too many times to ignore that a well tuned L24 is worth considering in a 240Z build. The shorter stroke, and balance does make them go well. I did own a hacker 240Z in the 90's and could not believe how fast and capable it was at the time, and that was 100% stock.

 

The Hornet is bored out to 2,5L, has lighter internals and nigh on 10.8:1 CR, that with the tuned length extractors, Isky stage 3 cam and other quick bits should make for an interesting drive. I've absolutely aimed at keeping weight to a minimum, which SHOULD get me a decent grin out of each drive. For me, the L28 or other was never an option.

 

Good discussion point here lads.

 

Adam.

 

Posted

It seems it really depends on the buyer. As a young buyer, as long as it goes hard and sounds hektik I'm not bothered if it's the original motor, I'd prefer a worked L series. But I can see the appeal of matching numbers to an older buyer, especially now they're becoming more collectable.

 

A rough formula to convert to KW @ the RW is deduct a third  for frictional loss through the drive line then another third to convert from RW horse power to KW ~ 130 RWKW

Wouldn't a rough formula be to deduct a 1/4 for each? hp to kw times by 0.734, bout a 1/4. Usually go 25% drivetrain loss, more if auto, less if FWD.

Posted

As a young buyer, I really want an original early series 1 car with matching numbers. As the cars get less "collectable" the matching numbers bit isn't as important, but it will always be a consideration when comparing two cars for me.

Posted

It's just another selling point really isnt it. Selling points add value it's up to the individual buying the car if they all sum up to the asking price. I dont think anyone here would say no to a car because it's matching numbers.

  • Moderators
Posted

I'd add that a matching numbers car may have had a better life and been looked after. To have the original engine, it usually gets regular engine oil changes, never revved to vent the block etc. An engine change usually means failure of something or beyond economical repair. I often think why has its engine been replaced?

  • Administrators
Posted

I'd add that a matching numbers car may have had a better life and been looked after. To have the original engine, it usually gets regular engine oil changes, never revved to vent the block etc. An engine change usually means failure of something or beyond economical repair. I often think why has its engine been replaced?

 

Yep agreed, in the case of a 240z I've driven an all original L24 and had 2 L28 powered Zeds. For me the willingness of the L24 to rev is really fun. The L28 can modified to work better, i.e longer rods and lightened flywheel with other lighter internal components but that short stroke is loads of fun :).

Posted

what a lode of poo any L motor will rpm there all short stroke engines , Jake's 3.4 rpms to 8 faster than any engine you guys have ,,,  L24 go OK but a L 28  goes better  and 3.4 is so much faster lol , size maters all the girls know this

Posted

what a lode of poo any L motor will rpm there all short stroke engines , Jake's 3.4 rpms to 8 faster than any engine you guys have ,,,  L24 go OK but a L 28  goes better  and 3.4 is so much faster lol , size maters all the girls know this

 

hehehe ;D That's gold Pete

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