DreamZproject Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Ok, bad news... I was visited by a local spray painter/ body mechanic, and he thought that I need to strip the car right back to metal... He also mentioned that he wasn't sure if the car was worth doing... I think he was over reacting there as he wasn't very familiar with the early Z cars, and as we all know, there's never too much rust in a Z!!! (really there isn't a huge amount) The only thing I'm concerned about is rail and chassis rust. I haven't been properly under the car yet to have a looksie and see if its useable. The spray painter said its very hard to tell unless you get it up on a hoist and have a decent look (and pull things out like the fuel tank etc.). Although I do believe him on a lot of the points he made, I could never shake the feeling that, really, the only reason he's there is to make money, so why wouldn't he exaggerate? So basically I'm feeling a little put out now and lost, not sure what to do next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handsandwhich Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Panel beater knows what he's talking about unfortunately. Up to you if you just want to 'patch' fix all the problem areas and just paint over and hope that it lasts a few years before rust or bodgy repairs start to come through again or do a full resto on it. At the end of the day it just comes down to how much money/time you want to spend on fixing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 well, I would be willing to strip it back and fill it myself, but i dont have the skills to weld or anything like that... My main concern is properly checking out the floor pan and chassis, if they are gone... well, it is almost useless to work on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Pull out the fuel tank? Is this guy serious? I only ever found rust the size of a credit card near the fuel tank and i didn't need to take it out to find it. Also it was not in the chassis, if the wheel well is rusted it rusts from the inside out because of faulty seals around the hatch. Having said that if you are going to repair rust it is a top idea to take out the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 He also said that the repair work done to the wheel wells (had some sort of thick tar on it) was bad because it would let the moisture in and trap it against the metal... so i gotta strip that back and check if it has just been whacked over rust... which i doubt... Ahhhhh this is really confusing me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoota G Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Lots of members on here have collectively repaired every section of a Zed so do yourself a favour and get a bunch of pics of the concerned areas. The people on here know these cars back to front and will be able to give you a more knowledgeable opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Lots of members on here have collectively repaired every section of a Zed so do yourself a favour and get a bunch of pics of the concerned areas. The people on here know these cars back to front and will be able to give you a more knowledgeable opinion. +1 your panel beater sounds like a leech. he smelled young blood with no idea and his sucking all he can suck. Get more quotes. Also since you in Vic have you asked Lurch the resident S30 body fixer. He be your best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 BTW, the guy suggested that i use paint stripper to get all the paint off the car... does this sound a little laborious to you??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Paint striping is always labourious if doing it yourself regardless of technique. Paint stripper works well if you dont have 5+ layers options are: 1. Stripping disk 2. Sand/media blasting 3. Paint stripper 4. Combination of all 3. Or u pay someone to do it will be approx 1k+ for media blasting. If you cannot afford that than better pull up your sleves and get cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agno Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I used a wire wheel and a high speed drill. You could also use a small grinder with the right attatchments. If you would like a quote for blasting call Mr Powdercoat in Williamstown. He blasted a friend of mine's Alfa and did a really good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Woot, I got my urethane Xenon airdam this weekend which has spurred me on to getting all the paint stripped off the car so i can all be sprayed. I also recently came across some decent condition 240z seats (which I think look way cooler than the 260 seats ), a pair of excellent condition 260 rear tail lights as well as a bunch of other bits and bobs. I think now there are very few parts I need for the car, so a current total cost of $5,752 is pretty decent IMO. (This includes $150 worth of paint stripper, orbital disks, etch primer etc.). Besides the two big costs of getting the rust welded up, and getting the car professionally sprayed, the spending should really start to decline after this to the point where the car can be registered... If i can get the car totally on the road for under $8,500 ill be stoked! (i'll add some more pics soon!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vramjee91 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Hey mate, I have about 4l of paint stripper if you want it. Im not doing anything with it, and also might have some other things you are welcome to have Let us know! And good stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Woweez, It's been a looooong time since my last entry, i wish as much work had been put in as time, but I have been ridiculously busy and unmotivated to do anything really. Luckily in the last month or so i have found a little more time, have substantially more money (coming from being a student) and feel pepped up again to get this car on the road! So, the car is now on the rotiss me and my dad made. It's not 100% perfect which i am a little concerned about, but I'm going to reinforce it more before i fully commit to getting under the car. It had a slight tendancy to rock backwards and forwards, which I'm sure would put stress on welds and bolts. I'm 90% sure this is due to the center rod being a bit on the thin side and flexing over the 6m length. Do you guys think it would be worth laminating another length of metal on to it? All that is now left on the car is; Diff and rear assembly petrol tank rear break lines 30% of original body deadener (yes i am using a chisel to get it off) So what I'd assume is another 5 hours of work and the car will be 100% stripped up until the point of paint stripping. In regards to body deadener that is painted on the wheel wells, is it worth me scraping that all off before i take it to the media blasters? Or will their guns take it off easily? Time to get Lurch to check it all out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linton Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 put some blocks under the centre of the bar it will take some of the bounce out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 I had thought of that, but it poses a problem when i will eventually want to move the rotiss and put it up on a trailer... Perhaps i should put in some removeable diagonals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightmaster240z Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Lurch is the man for the Job when it come to this type of repair. Trust me I know just have a look at what he has done on my 240z. regards Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Top job Robbie! Get the suspension out & you won't have the flexing issue - the suspension weighs a heap... EDIT: as per Dave's comment below, you need castors on the bottom tie bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Rotisserie is good but the tie bar from front to back needs to be more substantial to stop flexing. Use some 50x50 and put casters on the bar like mine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Great suggestions guys. I'll definately put in a thicker tie bar and some wheels before i get under the car properly. The next problem i have realised is that I'm going to have to get this whole thing up on a trailer at some point... not sure how that's going to happen. And do most media blasting places have their own trailers that you borrow or will i need to rent an extra wide trailer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Hire a flat deck tow-truck to pickup & drop-off to the blasters... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Yeah, that seems like the right way to go. It's a shame that we have to hire it for a whole day. The blasters i plan on using are located roughly 2k's from where the car is! When it's being put up on the truck, would i just use a winch to wheel it up, or should i winch the whole thing in the air and reverse the truck up to it (if we could get it that high...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26DETT Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Just add the extra castors on bottom tie bar. You can leave the car as it is on the spit and hire a tilt/slide tray tow truck. They can then just winch it on as is, saves heaps of stuffing about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agno Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 First thing I'd do after adding the castors is taking out the suspension, diff and brakes. You will find it about a trillion times easier to manoeuvre after that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreamZproject Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 Hey guys, just a little update. I added a 3mm 50x50 square section to the rotiss, and added a little more boltage to the rotation plate (i was only using 2 bolts each end, now 4) and the car is heaps more sturdy. I have also now taken 99.99% of the parts off the car (with the odd bolt and clip remaining). It feels as though the car would only weigh a couple of hundred kilo's now!!! All that's left to do before the strippers take it away (I propbably should have said blasters) is remove the last few bits of body deadener from the inside of the car and the POR15 like stuff in the wheel wells. IM ALMOST THERE!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Don't worry about the paint in the wheel wells Robbie - the blaster will take care of that. Just get rid of the deadener... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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