Roberto Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 They have come up really nicely, Peter. Awesome. I needed this good news right now. I was cruising through my engine bay "freshen-up" and feeling like a rock star till I encountered RUST, and not just the surface kind. This will set me back a little while. Any mobile welders in SA?? Quote
garvice Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 I have had a similar experience recently Roberto. I started stripping back my radiator support only to find 5mm thick bog in places and a poorly repaired sections. I ended up cutting the rear of the radiator support completely off. Got to work out how straight it is now before I rebuild it all. Quote
zzzzed Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 oh no you found an ouchie :'( If you are in no hurry i can fix it up for you in about 4 weeks. I cant do it before then because i am going in to hospital on thursday to get theh metal rod removed from my leg finally.. Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Thats a bugger Rob Do you have a welder? Quote
mossy Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Better you find it now rather than later Roberto Quote
Roberto Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 If you are in no hurry i can fix it up for you in about 4 weeks. I cant do it before then because i am going in to hospital on thursday to get theh metal rod removed from my leg finally.. Good luck with your surgery Mick. I will try and have it done before then but if not, I will hire your services again. Thats a bugger Rob Do you have a welder? No !. My brother has an arc welder and can use it, but probably not best for the hole near the nose cone area as it's so thin. Would fiberglass be a (non dodgy) solution if i cut out the rusted area? I was not planning on removing the fenders for a few years until i respary the entire car. I have had a similar experience recently Roberto. I started stripping back my radiator support only to find 5mm thick bog in places and a poorly repaired sections. I ended up cutting the rear of the radiator support completely off. Got to work out how straight it is now before I rebuild it all. Not fun when unexpected, huh. Ignorance is bliss. I understand the urge to dismantle everything and do a complete rotisserie restoration now. :'( Quote
zzzzed Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 if you use fiberglass it will only cause you more work later on. it would not be much more work to weld it in if you can find some one to do it.. If you go with the filling option dont use fibreglass, use fiber fill. most auto shops sell it and it is easier to work with. Quote
Joiji Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Yelp. Was that under the bonnet hinge plate? I'm with them, make a nice little patch plate and weld a new piece in while you can. It LOOKS like you can clear an area out without taking out any holes, and correct me if I'm wrong, but that section is also perfectly flat? I'm happy to give you a hand with all the prep and panel work, but I don't have the ability to bring a welder down your way, is the only problem. Let me know if you want another pair of hands. Tim. Quote
FLEXZED Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 hi Roberto some picks of the reco on the 44s and some of the work on the manifold to make them fit ,the new ram tubes will be hear tomorrow so there will be more picks soon hey pete i would love to see a youtube video of you porting a head , just curious on how its done Loui Quote
luvemfast Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Maybe you should leave the rust holes in the engine bay Rob, let that monster breathe Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted September 7, 2011 Moderators Posted September 7, 2011 Zeds are always full of nasty little suprises! Luckily it's behind an area that's not visible so the repair doesn't have to be "concourse" standard. Repair it properly but finishing doesn't have to be perfect. Quote
Roberto Posted September 7, 2011 Author Posted September 7, 2011 Yes, that's PORN alright Let me know if you want another pair of hands. Tim. Thanks for the offer Tim. Let's wait and see Maybe you should leave the rust holes in the engine bay Rob, let that monster breathe hehehe Better you find it now rather than later Roberto Yeah, it was only going to get worse and worse. Zeds are always full of nasty little suprises! Luckily it's behind an area that's not visible so the repair doesn't have to be "concourse" standard. Repair it properly but finishing doesn't have to be perfect. True. I think the fiberglass or fiberfill idea is not good since it needs to support the bonnet hinge. Quote
benny Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 if you wanted a real quick fix, treat the rust then cut out some plate and rivit it to the panel for now until you do your bodywork!! This way its easy to remove but still has some structural integrity and looks clean. Benny Quote
Riceburner Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 Looking good Roberto! Are those 100mm ram tubes from efi hardware? If so you'll find them a very close fit to the strut tower and standard size battery. I ran them on a redline manifold and it was tight but still had 25-35mm clearance to the strut tower, which is fine and won't harm flow. It's going to look great when finished and go damn hard, keep up the good work Roberto and Pete Quote
zedevan Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 I was not planning on removing the fenders for a few years until i respary the entire car. Not overly helpful info here, but removing the fenders isn't any real effort, the only down side would be potentially discovering what's underneath! Quote
Roberto Posted September 10, 2011 Author Posted September 10, 2011 if you wanted a real quick fix, treat the rust then cut out some plate and rivit it to the panel for now until you do your bodywork!! Good point. I might as well have it fixed properly now and forget about it. Are those 100mm ram tubes from efi hardware? If so you'll find them a very close fit to the strut tower and standard size battery. Yes they wil probably be very close to the strut tower. Pete says the ram tubes can be cut at the base to make them a bit shorter if needed. Not overly helpful info here, but removing the fenders isn't any real effort, the only down side would be potentially discovering what's underneath! Yes, I have rust at the bottom of the fenders and would rather not open this can of worms. I have now taken the spoiler off and can now get to the back of this area. It will make it easier to fix properly. My brother had a look at the rust today and thinks an arc welder is not the go with such thin metal. I will take you up on your offer Mick when you have recovered from your surgery. How did it go? Other than the rusted area's, engine bay is now ready for paint. Quote
garvice Posted September 10, 2011 Posted September 10, 2011 Mate, forgot to ask what you were using to strip back your engine bay with? I used grinder, wire wheels, paint stripper and it was still a crap job (probably because of the bog) and took far longer then I expected. Quote
Roberto Posted September 10, 2011 Author Posted September 10, 2011 Hey Garvice. I started using paint stripper and found it to be slow and not overly effective, so i switched to using these wire wheels on the drill. Much more satisying than paint stripper and better results. The trick is to reverse the drill often. Quote
garvice Posted September 10, 2011 Posted September 10, 2011 Yeah that is what I resulted to, bit painful. Didn't think about reversing the drill but that makes sense as mine eventually got a good curve to the wires. Quote
zzzzed Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 no worries mate.. ill lt you know as soon as i am able Quote
Z Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 Mate interested in this part of the repower as your gonna repaint the engine bay. How are you going to get behind the brake and electrical cables - remove them or wrap em up maybe? Will have to do this with mine someday. Quote
Roberto Posted September 11, 2011 Author Posted September 11, 2011 How are you going to get behind the brake and electrical cables - remove them or wrap em up maybe? Will have to do this with mine someday. That's a good question as i had to put a bit of thought into this. The idea of removing all of the brake and clutch lines was not a pleasant one. :-\ Firstly you can remove virtually all of the engine electrics by unravelling the wiring loom and hanging off the fender as shown below. If you prefer you can try to paint behind the brake and clutch lines or if they are old and ugly like mine, just paint them also. The good thing about POR15 rust paint is that it is self levelling and will not leave brush marks. That means you can paint around things like MC's firewall grommets etc with a fine brush. Some people prefer the engine bay to be body colour, but if you choose black you can respray the car without ever having to worry about under the bonnet again. Quote
Z Posted September 11, 2011 Posted September 11, 2011 True, a black engine bay can suit Zed's with the 70's race, JDM, flares look I reckon. Good solution with the loom, you can probably get away with that, the problem is those lines... nobody would argue that replacing them is a good thing, it just increases the scope of the job a little (if you have a white engine bay like me )! Just an idea: have you thought about the speedo cable route... It goes from speedo, through to engine bay and then back along gearbox. If that cable could run up through the transmission tunnel somehow (maybe through inner shift boot...maybe), that would be one less cable in the engine bay for a pretty easy re-route? Quote
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