Rat1314 Posted October 27, 2013 Posted October 27, 2013 Awesome roberto. Though dont be silly using acrylic. A. Old tech B. not robust C. I dont know about u but polishing sucks I keep hearing this 2pk harder to paint??? Who says it? If anything its easier. Just need cleanish premises so no dust particles. If u need ccontact for paint let me know. 2pk also lot cheaper than acrylic. Also modern 2pks are not worse than acrylic in poison aspect. Dont make the mistake going acrylic roberto i beg you. ^that I painted my Z31 with acrylic and now I'm painting the 280 with 2pac. I don't think I'll ever consider painting a car with acrylic again Quote
Roberto Posted October 27, 2013 Author Posted October 27, 2013 Ok, i think the universe is subtly telling me to go with 2 pac. I will do some research into less toxic 2 pac paints otherwise I may bring the zed to a booth. I have a booth you can use man You are a gentleman Paul. Thanks for the offer. Will let you know. Some more progress this weekend..... Quote
nizm0zed Posted October 27, 2013 Posted October 27, 2013 mine was done in Acrylic first, went to shit pretty quick, but that was more than likely do to my crappy application and lack of skill. Its done in 2K now and looks awesome. Totally worth the cash. Quote
Fairlady Z Posted November 6, 2013 Posted November 6, 2013 nice work Roberto looks awesome look at my post of temporary blasting setup for rusty bits we discussed few weekends ago. Quote
Roberto Posted November 11, 2013 Author Posted November 11, 2013 This is probably the best $275 I have ever spent. Vehicle positioning jacks. Thanks for the tip Greg! Quote
Roberto Posted November 29, 2013 Author Posted November 29, 2013 Some pictures of my progress...... Quote
Roberto Posted November 29, 2013 Author Posted November 29, 2013 And finally after a dozen brumby disks, 10 or so wire wheels and a few litres of paint stripper, the zed is "naked". Next is for Mick, to do some hole repairs. Quote
Roberto Posted November 29, 2013 Author Posted November 29, 2013 Found any rust, Rob? The major rust got cut out over winter when Mick replaced the roof skin. He did doglegs, hatch, floors, fenders. That's why there were no real surprises under the paint. Just surface rust mainly. There is some heavy pitting on the lower door frames and under the threshold plates. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted November 29, 2013 Administrators Posted November 29, 2013 Must be happy to have a good sound body on it and no moon roof . Quote
thriller Posted November 29, 2013 Posted November 29, 2013 Looking good! Wonder which of us will have paint first... Mine's about the same! Quote
Roberto Posted December 7, 2013 Author Posted December 7, 2013 Another solid day of welding today by Mick. Redundant rear bumper holes gone as well as lots of tiny rust holes around the place. Quote
Roberto Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Slowly getting there...... All the body filler work is now completed. I applied filler where required (UPOL fantastic) to bare metal and primed over it with Spray Chief 2K epoxy primer. I did it in stages so that no surface rust would appear after the panel was complete. I should have probably used this approach with the paint stripping instead of stripping it entirely all at once. Oh well, live and learn. Now blocking back of the primer until all of the ripples are cut out. Will probably start with 180 to 240 grit dry and finish up with 400 wet before colour. I am 99% sure on the colour. See cars below with black wheels, flares, bumpers etc..... Quote
Sirpent Posted April 21, 2014 Posted April 21, 2014 Now blocking back of the primer until all of the ripples are cut out. Will probably start with 180 to 240 grit dry and finish up with 400 wet before colour. Roberto Wet rubbing expoxy is a big No, its porous and will allow water to reach the base metal. Better off dry blocking with the highest possible then finishing with a top coat of 2K primer surfacer, then you can wet rub it gently with a guide coat of color applied while the primer is 90% set. Cheers John Quote
vorn70 Posted April 21, 2014 Posted April 21, 2014 Great to see an update Robbo. I have been waiting to see the next installment of your story. I agree to to keep the water away until she is all sealed up. Quote
Roberto Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for the input guys. Apparently this particular product is ok for wet rubbing and you can apply it really thick and use it as a hi-fill although technically not one. I have wet rubbed it in the past with no issues, but i think will try 400 dry and see how it rubs. Here is a link to a no BS article for the painting of cars with this product (2K epoxy primer) and the "normal" grey Acrylic Primer Surfacer (APS) Spray Chief makes. http://spraychiefcustompaints.com.au/images/spraychief-tips.pdf No etching required. No spray putty required. No Iso-cyanates. This stuff is almost foolproof..... Quote
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