Roberto's PMC enhanced 260Z

[PZG302]

Roberto, and anyone else wanting to bleed brakes.

 

try this method put up on the hairdresser's forum, all credit goes to a very smart man who is a good mechanic and knows his shit, works on everythinng from buses through to GT3 997's and some in between. The pictures are missing, but if anyone is interested I can link to the original post.

 

Before we start lets get one thing clear "If your NOT confident about your mechanical ability maybe your better off getting this job done by a professional". I say this for one main reason, I have seen many times over my years as a mechanic, people trying to save money and end up costing them a fortune because of inexperience or not having the right tools etc.

 

So sit down grab a coffee and read!!!

 

I hate pumping brake pedals!!! why, clutch master cylinders are designed to travel the whole range of the cylinder, that's how they work, on the other hand or leg, brake master cylinders only ever travel approx 5% of the available cylinder. The only time this changes is when your brakes need adjusting or worse, you have a fluid leak and/or hydraulic failure!! make sense? hope so!!

 

The basics when bleeding brakes, if just to change fluid or after caliper rebuild is all the same.

What you will need,

1/2 m clear tube to go over bleeder approx 1/8 dia

large syringe from chemist ask for a catheter tip syringe 50ml

Brake fluid 1 ltr a different colour to what you have in your brake system now, I'll explain later!!

container or you can use your oil drain bucket.

coffee/tea or beverage of choice non alcoholic!!!!

 

First step is to mark the master cylinder reservoir at the level that the brake fluid is now, (unless you have had a fluid leak) this is so you will know when your disc pads are worn down.As your pads wear down goes the fluid.

 

Jack up the car, place on stands and remove the wheels. Grab yourself a length of clear tube to fit over the bleeder nipple. Suck out all the old fluid from the master cylinder with your syringe and tube. Refill with new fluid and turn the M/C cap over and place on resevior.

 

Place you drain container under the caliper and run the tube to the container, I like to have the hose going up then a gentle bend downwards, this way you can see the fluid coming out and see the colour change when the new fluid comes through. Crack open the bleeder and leave the hose to drip brake fluid

 

Now go and get your beverage of choice, this step will take approx 15mins. Have your drink, start polishing your car, start changing oil whatever, but, keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and don't allow to go under 1/4 of the way down. top up the cylinder when it at the low mark and have a look at the fluid dripping out of the hose, it will be nice clean fluid, and a different colour that why we change the brake fluid colour.Grab your spanner and tighten up the bleeder, you just tighten it up, the fluid will still be running out so no air can go in!!!!Do this to all 4 wheels, rears first then the fronts.Some vehicles are supposed to be bleed in a certain routine but doing it this way I've never had any problems.

If you have run the system completely out of fluid this method will still work however you will need to open the bleeder and tap your finger over the top of the bleeder for a few minutes until fluid starts coming out, this causes a vacuum and helps the fluid to start to run, re:

Once the fluid starts to run place on your clear tube and go do something.

 

Now this is the method I was taught when doing my time 37 years ago and I've used it ever since and never had a problem if everything is in good condition. If the fluid won't run after you've had the system apart you have a leak somewhere, recheck all joints and recheck that everything is tight.Of course someone will disagree with my method and that's their privilege. If you want to go buy the gear to do the same thing but spending lots more $$$ buy one of these, I have one but only use it for sucking out fluids and bleeding diesel engines.

 

 

 

I have used this method when replacing all the pads in the old racer when there has been no one around to help me. The only problem was i didn't follow the advice and used alcoholic beverages and as a reult was too pissed to test as it was a six pack job.....

 

 

If you are still havinng dramas and all the lines are good, ie no air, no leaks, and everything moves as it should, then I would be lookimg at the booster, or get rid of the booster, Zeds aren't all that bad without a booster to drive.

 

And if that fails get the rear brake conversion of Lurch ( I will want 5% commission for the sales pitch Lurch).

[Enzo]

Hello Again,

              Since we are all guessing at this stage. Did you remove the one way valve from the booster line when you had things pulled out of the engine bay. If so did it go back in the correct way to hold pressure in the booster. Quick way to test is pull the vacuum line at the booster and you should hear the sound of pressure release if working .

David.

[260DET]

Interesting brake bleeding tip but the bleeding sequence is not clear to me. Start at the MC using the syringe to empty it, then gravity drip bleed the wheel cylinders one by one?

[Zedman240®]

Interesting brake bleeding tip but the bleeding sequence is not clear to me. Start at the MC using the syringe to empty it, then gravity drip bleed the wheel cylinders one by one?

After you have emptied the MC, you refill with new fluid then gravity bleed the rest of the system. Only time you need to bleed the MC is after an overhaul or you have had to remove it for some reason. Some cars have a "diagonally split" brake setup when one circuit is a front left wheel and the rear right, and the other is front right and rear left. So if a circuit fails, you still have some sort of brake control. Zed just have a front and rear circuit should be bled rear then fronts. But I've bled brakes both ways and they all work.

[260DET]

Thanks Dimitri, anything that avoids pumping the MC full stroke is good.

[Roberto]

Still yet to get a good brake pedal, but haven't really been working on car too much lately to sort this out.

 

I have been contemplating losing the polished lip on my wheels to give it a more old school angry look. I used black duct tape to mask the lip and give me a rough idea of how it will look after painting in case I was not happy.

 

(I could have used photoshop, but would have taken me longer...... )

 

Should I:

 

1) leave the wheels as they are (because it looks best and the polished lip cost me extra)?

2) Go ahead and paint them black?

3) Paint them dark gunmetal?

[BobsYourUncle]

I'm a big fan of matte black wheels (and have some for my car), but with your paint and flare combo, I reckon the polished lip looks better.

[benny]

the all black looks mean!!

[Zedman240®]

Since you have blacked out most of your trim, there may be too much black? The polished rim evens it out.... but agree with Benny; it does look good.

[Retro Z]

In my opinion the polished lip looks much better. Would look even better if the window trim was chrome as intended.

 

Matte black would look good if you black out everything else eg. Badge, flare bolts, window strip and it would then have that mean aggressive look being just a 2 colour theme (black/blue)

[adam]

I just read through your entire thread and wow... Your car is absolutely gorgeous. The extra effort in respraying your engine bay has paid off!

 

You mentioned not liking the blue a few pages back, but I personally love it.

 

The blacked out wheels do look good but I agree on leaving it polished to break things up a bit.

[zzzzed]

Polished

[Ledge]

^^^^^ what knackers said

[zzzzed]

That's twice I have been called knacker in two days by two diferent people lol. What's with that 

[chris240]

I also agree with knackers.  sometimes you need a little bit of a contrast to accentuate the fatness of the rim...hope that makes sense 

[Ledge]

^^^^^^Thats 3 knackers knackers. Any one else want to call knackers knackers

 

Maybe you should change your user name

[nizm0zed]

Good work there knackers...

 

Roberto, My opinion is that the polished lip really sets the wheels off, all gunmetal looks too dark.

Damn nice looking car too, Love it!

[eddii]

Hi Roberto,

Why dont you Plasticote your rims black for a little while until you can make up your mind and when you're done just peel the paint off....no mees I think this is your best option for now.

Eddii

 

[zedevan]

since you've black out most of your trim i think it looks better with the black lip. however you'd probably need to paint the drip guards along with anything else black too, so it is just the zed badge that's crome.

 

I've having the same dilemma when trying to work out my paint scheme, as I really like the look of all black wheels, but i'm planning to keep my bumpers and other trim chrome - although feel like it then looks like there's too much going on

[saxon]

My personal preference is chrome lipped wheels to make it pop, while everything else is blacked out.

[Roberto]

Thanks for all your replies guys.  Ok, will leave the polished lip.  Might black out the drip rail and windscreen trims. 

 

Hi Roberto,

Why dont you Plasticote your rims black for a little while until you can make up your mind and when you're done just peel the paint off....no mees I think this is your best option for now.

Eddii

 

Do you have a link for this stuff?  Interested to see if they have gunmetal.

[eddii]

You tube plasti dip wheels or plasticote wheels. They're amazing product, not sure if they're available here in oz tho. but surely you'll be able to get them online.

[Roberto]

Don't you love when a box of goodies arrives. 

 

I have gone with 150 lbs front and 175 lbs rear.  This is a similar rate to Kings Springs rates which are great for street comfort and with larger sway bars very little body roll.

 

[Retro Z]

Haha funnily enough im just on the laptop ordering my sleeves from Techno toy aswell. Only $66 postage to Melb!

 

Before i finalise my order how would those spring rates you chose go with stock sway bars? What inserts are you planning to go?. I think im just going to get Tokico blues since im planning to go 200lbs springs. (Im going against everyones recommendations of 5-6kg springs)

[luvemfast]

Haha funnily enough im just on the laptop ordering my sleeves from Techno toy aswell. Only $66 postage to Melb!

 

Before i finalise my order how would those spring rates you chose go with stock sway bars? What inserts are you planning to go?. I think im just going to get Tokico blues since im planning to go 200lbs springs. (Im going against everyones recommendations of 5-6kg springs)

GET ILLUMINA'S ALL ROUND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have Illumina's in the front and rears are Blues, as they are not available for S130's.