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Posted

Hehe, it has twigged my curiosity Dave  :) Amazing things those moto gp bikes

 

Unfortunately it's probably way beyond my skill or lack of and more importantly cash flow. I'll leave all the fancy stuff up to you!

 

Hopefully this will get rid of the stand off and then I should be closer to a real good tune.

Posted

Good overview of how the Yamaha system works... http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/designcafe/en/about-design/technology/index.aspx?segment=About%20Design%20-%20Technology&view=article&id=442638

 

I reckon it could be done, you would need to adapt something like the Yamaha stacks and just use a simple RPM triggered stepper motor on the bellcranks. May not be very sophisticated but would be a great exercise. Put your plumbing skills to use if nothing else!

Posted

hi gareth... looks awesome. it may be to late but did you think of doing the stacks with meeting edges cut down like so-

 

 

IMG_8096-900x599.jpg

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Posted

Gareth, when I used to frequent the drags many years ago, I remember some rails running fuel injection with trumpets tuned to each cylinder; all in different lengths.

Posted

hi gareth... looks awesome. it may be to late but did you think of doing the stacks with meeting edges cut down like so-

 

 

IMG_8096-900x599.jpg

 

I did think about trying to siamese them Benny, but I wasnt confident I could get a neat enough finish. They are the efi hardware stacks, great quality but super thin so any shaping or welding is a very difficult job. Would've looked awesome though!

 

They're all welded now so I can't change anything, may just have to drop a main jet size on carby 1&6.

 

Dimitri, I had seen this type of setup a few times before. It's good to know others are doing it too, it's a compromise but an acceptable one.

 

Dave, that article makes it sound Pretty basic and like you say with the factory stack setup it would be doable. It's interesting how long their stacks are considering they rev to 17k. Even the shorter half of the setup looks to be well over 100mm long

Posted

Got some of them fitted, partially. There was a heap of casting on the carb bodies in the way so required a heap of machining.

 

Hello runner length/torque, goodbye standoff...... I hope  :D

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Posted

Never ceases to amaze me to what length everyone here strives for perfection with inovation.

 

This forum (with no offense to Gav) is simple and may seem clunky in ways to our U.S. friends at Hybrid but the content is amazing.

 

Well done Gareth for adding another inspiring chapter.

 

John

Posted

Ditto John

 

Gareth's car is awesome. Gareth, where did you get that oil return tube from? I am looking for that exact tube with the internal coil.

 

Adam.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got some adjustable T/C rods from Brian ZCCJDM. Now I don't have to worry about the stock ones breaking on the road or track. Very nice bits of kit, ball joint on the chassis end and a two piece rotating joint on the other that will move with suspension.

 

I had some spare urethane T/C boots that I fitted over the ball joints to keep them protected from the elements. Also had some stickers I put on but not sure on them yet, they met go but I'll wait to see if they grow on me.

 

Also had a quick look at the RB box I got a while ago. There was some chewed up metal that came out when I removed the ratining plate in the bellhousing, also when the speedo drive came out. It seemed quite thin, was told it needed bearings so hopefully it's just a metal bearing seal or something simple. Fingers crossed!

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Posted

Got all the new stacks on and tested, no more stand off  :) Clear coated too

 

Made one mistake with the manifold, when it was made I forgot to put in a fitting for the brake booster. Until now I had run a longer piece of hose up to number one runner. Now I fitted the 't' piece and have run some copper back to the bonnet catch just to neaten it up a bit. I'll throw a PCV valve on the other side of the 't' and link it to the catch can.

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Posted

don't fit a PVC unless you have a vacuum off all cylinders , or it will be lean on the cylinder its on

 

Also have to ask, can you genertate enough vaccum from one cylinder to properly run the booster?

Posted

Oooh really, thanks Peter  :) looks like it'll stay as is then. I did run it the same way with the old blackbird carbs and always wondered why number one plug was lighter.

 

I'm not sure about effects in the brake booster, the test drive vids I had no booster hooked up at all. That was interesting/scary! Now it's hooked up I have done a few little runs and the brakes feel same as it always has, weather or not that's normal I'm not too sure.

 

 

Posted

I'm not sure about effects in the brake booster, the test drive vids I had no booster hooked up at all. That was interesting/scary! Now it's hooked up I have done a few little runs and the brakes feel same as it always has, weather or not that's normal I'm not too sure.

 

Only ask because Ive seen other ITB set ups including my M3 which run a vaccum manifold to all 6 runners to ensure good signal.

 

I was a bit concerned about the T/C  rods using steering rack tie rod ends as the T/C rods will see much higher loads than any steering system will.......but...... had a look at  the ZCCJDM web site and saw the testimonial from Jon Siddins. That's good enough for me!

Posted

Hey Rev, to start with I'll probably end up droppping the main jets on 1&6 by one or two jet sizes as thats how the blackbird carbs were from the factory with their staggered setup.

 

Only ask because Ive seen other ITB set ups including my M3 which run a vaccum manifold to all 6 runners to ensure good signal.

 

I think yours is the ideal setup going to all cylinders. With the SU's I think it was on the balance tube, which goes to all cylinders. I've only had it on one cylinder since I did the triple Dellorto's, I've left it the same on the blackbirds and on the FCR's. The only issue I could see would maybe be a low signal at low RPM's if you had a high lift cam? I use a 74 works high lift, no troubles. If I was doing it again I'd put fittings on all the runners.

 

I was a bit concerned about the T/C  rods using steering rack tie rod ends as the T/C rods will see much higher loads than any steering system will.......but...... had a look at  the ZCCJDM web site and saw the testimonial from Jon Siddins. That's good enough for me!

 

Thats what tipped me over the line too, I also liked the pivoting front link and the fact they didn't seem as bulky as some of the other types for sale.

Posted

I'm running the booster of 1 cylinder only on the TWM manifold, no probs.

But, drove dads Scuderia today. It's running triples with the Mikuni manifold. At low revs, you can actually feel the cylinder pulses through the brake pedal. If you ride the brake with your left foot and accelerate with the right. You can feel the brake pedal pressure increase and pushes out against your foot.

It's odd, as I've not felt anything like it in the 2seater. It must be due to the Mikuni manifold being shorter, therefore less volume.

Posted

I'm running the booster of 1 cylinder only on the TWM manifold, no probs.

But, drove dads Scuderia today. It's running triples with the Mikuni manifold. At low revs, you can actually feel the cylinder pulses through the brake pedal. If you ride the brake with your left foot and accelerate with the right. You can feel the brake pedal pressure increase and pushes out against your foot.

It's odd, as I've not felt anything like it in the 2seater. It must be due to the Mikuni manifold being shorter, therefore less volume.

 

Sounds weird Simon, almost like the vaccuum is making then breaking.... might wanna inspect the check valve in the booster line.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Little more work, got the body rubbed down ready for paint. Rear hatch seal is ok except for the top left corner, it's continually been 'tacky' for a few years. Has anyone used rare spares rubbers.. are they OEM quality?

 

I've only got minor bits to clean up, but the devil is in the detail! Hatch has been removed, sh@t they are heavy. BTW what's up with the gas struts for the hatch, I had to get the HULK (me covered in blue primer dust) to compress mine.... :-[ Haha. Guess they don't make them like they used too! Lol. Also got some small surface rust on the slam panel, it's the only rust left. I'll probably swap out the slightly cracked original tail lights for the new set.

 

Cleaned up the original exhaust opening to take the twin 60mm stainless muffler. Few other surprises but I'll leave them until it's finished.

 

Progress pics. Jeez I'm Hanging for a drive...

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Posted

 

Cleaned up the original exhaust opening to take the twin 60mm stainless muffler.

 

Please explain......you going all Bosozoku on us?

Posted

Gareth, did you have to get that made? I can't remember the details.. looks excellent.

 

+1

 

....I need same type of rear muffler but twin 57mm (2.25 inch) in and twin 57mm (2.25 inch) out as well as a single  twin 57mm (2.25 inch) in and twin 57mm (2.25 inch) out resonator or 2 x seperate single 57mm (2.25 inch) in and out. All in stainless.

Posted

There a quite a few companies that make them. Fujitsubo do a twin system called the 'lagalis' you can find them on the RHDJapan website. I got mine from Reinhard Japan, they do an all stainless twin 60mm system but it's pricey. I just asked for the rear 'can' only, apparently muffler translates to the whole exhaust system so they didn't know what I was asking for  ;D

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