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Posted

Photos jamo!

 

Who did the welding on your ears?

Posted

Hey Kato

 

Rob (Robco engineering) organised the welding via a local bloke...see pics below. I am happy with the work...the welds look good, and there is no distortion in the housing assembly, and it all went back together with no fuss. Just need the tie rods and rack to pump lines now.

 

Cheers, Jamo

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Posted

Peter, that would be good if you did that, as it would make it a easier option for those going  the power steering option.

Cheers Tony

Posted

Looks good Jamo.

 

I contemplated going this way but engineers get a bit funny when there is welding involved in steering components so decided modifying the crossmember is a going to attract less scrutiny at rego time.

 

Is your rotary valve assembly alloy or steel? I know they have both and yours looks like alloy.

Posted

Thanks Kato...I agree that the engineers will get all excited about welded steering components, so probably best to modify the X-member, but provided it's done properly, it's no problem, and it fits a bit better in my view, with the valve re-indexed.

 

My valve housing is aluminium....possibly a bit easier to weld than the cast iron ones.

 

Cheers

 

 

Jamo

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Installed my resplined shaft between the column and the rack and it all works! As expected the shaft runs very close to the chassis rail and while you could "massage" the rail for more clerance Im going to move the base of the column by sloting the mounting holes on the plate that bolts it to the firewall. This is an old trick from the time whan I put an SBC in my LJ Torana and provides the necessary clearnce without the steering wheel relocation being really noticeable.

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Posted

Very neat work there. I like the idea of moving the base of the stearing column. Bit easier doing this with no brake master cylinder or engine in there. I will have to wait and see how much clearance if any I have when my instalation gets under way. Mind you I might mover it anyway while I have the dash out at the same time. Hmmm........ maybe.

Either way with the shaft over further will help with the clearance from my headers which are very close at the moment.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Installed my resplined shaft between the column and the rack and it all works! As expected the shaft runs very close to the chassis rail and while you could "massage" the rail for more clerance Im going to move the base of the column by sloting the mounting holes on the plate that bolts it to the firewall. This is an old trick from the time whan I put an SBC in my LJ Torana and provides the necessary clearnce without the steering wheel relocation being really noticeable.

 

How did this whole saga end Kato?

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Electric power assisted column is so much easier then hydraulic for many reasons.

 

- No change in steering geometry.

- No hydraulic pump needed for mounting and or chances of oil leaks.

- If it was to fail it is only as heavy as stock steering.

- Bolt in to all factory mountings, and wire up and your ready to go.

- No power taken from engine for the running apart from very minimal from alternator.

- Works without engine running as long as ignition is turned on to accessories.

- Slightly adjustable in sensitivity.

- For those who want to keep the car original no modifications needed and unless you look under the dash it can't be seen.

 

I guess this is why so many of the car manufacturers have gone to electric power assisted units over hydraulic and why I have too.

 

Just my two cents worth guys.

 

Justin.post-103877-0-49392900-1461237813_thumb.jpeg

Edited by 600Z
Posted

Electric power assisted column is so much easier then hydraulic for many reasons.

 

- No change in steering geometry.

- No hydraulic pump needed for mounting and or chances of oil leaks.

- If it was to fail it is only as heavy as stock steering.

- Bolt in to all factory mountings, and wire up and your ready to go.

- No power taken from engine for the running apart from very minimal from alternator.

- Works without engine running as long as ignition is turned on to accessories.

- Slightly adjustable in sensitivity.

- For those who want to keep the car original no modifications needed and unless you look under the dash it can't be seen.

 

I guess this is why so many of the car manufacturers have gone to electric power assisted units over hydraulic and why I have too.

 

Just my two cents worth guys.

 

Justin.

 

Nice piece of kit there Justin, what do you reckon that cost you?

Posted

Hello Gurbachen,

 

The first one that I made was for my car and I'd hate to think if I had to add the cost of time in working out what parts and modifications I had to do along with getting the unit to operate electricity.

 

One of my mates has just done Targa in his car with one of the columns in it and all went well and I have a couple more that I have to make up, one for my wife's 260Z and another for a 240Z for one of the guys on here.

 

I have done a bit of a write up on the column somewhere in the form but in essence I will be making the up to sell from time to time though they are quite time consuming (not as much as the first one).

 

The column is supplied with everything you need to install it apart from the main 50amp fuse as I'm sure people will like to choose that depending where they want to mount it. So it includes the following:

 

- Converted electric power assist column (Exchange basis for your column)

- All wiring supplied.

- Weld NDT test certificate for the two welds that need to be done. This is needed if you want to have it legally passed and added as a conversion to be used on the street, otherwise as you know insurance's can be void.

- Fitting instructions but you have to choose where you can mount the two control boxes. ( I have the main large one in behind where you would have a radio as I don't have one lol, the other small control box in the glove box but can be mounted anywhere.)

 

Price I'm after for them is $1500 plus postage and your old column so I have one to replace it that I can convert.

 

I certainly know it's changed how my car drives now, no more fighting with caster, wandering, etc. Now it's one hand driving and able to change gears mid corner if needed lol.

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  • 10 months later...
Posted

I am new to the Z scene so excusee if this seems completly wrong but couldn't you just use a US 280Z LHD p/steering rack - and just turn it around? and not have to modify anything substantial? they are obsolete in the states but readily avaliable rebuilt. p/n 49001-P9001. possibly avaliable in Japan (haven't checked yet).

Posted

I think that if you flip the rack round and upside down to fit, the wheels would turn left when you turn the wheel right wouldn't they?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I did say the LHD Rack, which would already be opposite - so flipping it would make it the right way. I have one on the way now so i will let you know when it turns up.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am new to the Z scene so excusee if this seems completly wrong but couldn't you just use a US 280Z LHD p/steering rack - and just turn it around? and not have to modify anything substantial? they are obsolete in the states but readily avaliable rebuilt. p/n 49001-P9001. possibly avaliable in Japan (haven't checked yet).

I didn't think that the 280z had power steering. The 280zx did however the rack is rear mounted and is not suitable...

Posted

I am new to the Z scene so excusee if this seems completly wrong but couldn't you just use a US 280Z LHD p/steering rack - and just turn it around? and not have to modify anything substantial? they are obsolete in the states but readily avaliable rebuilt. p/n 49001-P9001. possibly avaliable in Japan (haven't checked yet).

 

I did say the LHD Rack, which would already be opposite - so flipping it would make it the right way. I have one on the way now so i will let you know when it turns up.

 

 

Well aren't you in for a surprise!

  • 3 months later...
Posted

600z - has anyone else on the forum had this installed? gotta say it look a better idea than the hydraulic units, unless the zx rack fits. which reading this thread it doesn't

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi Aircobra,

 

Paul Henshaw has fitted one to his time attack race car though hasn't had a chance to get it out on the race track as yet.

Another went into a mates targa car and it's done one targa series since with no issues at all.

 

As for any other members having one, no there aren't any members here who have fitted one sorry.

 

The unit is certainly not a generic one from either of those places or any other place, the main unit is from a particular vehicle just like theirs are but not from the same vehicle as theirs if that makes sense but from one that matches our zed columns very well and tucks up under the dash better then theirs.

 

I made my original unit up as I didn't like the ones that are available and I didn't want to use hydraulic for several reasons plus I wanted mine to be street legal which it is. That's not to say you can't get the others passed you would just have to get the welds tested and submit all the information to vehicle modifications and then checked, just as you have to do with hydraulic conversions if you want it to be legal and be covered by your insurance.

 

Cheers,

Justin

Edited by 600Z
  • 3 months later...
Posted

So I've racked up (pun intended) 800 km on my car now with this setup and can say that it it  is possibly nearly the best part of my car....it is such a pleasure to drive at any speed:

  • At low speed as in parking situations it has plenty of assist even with a small diameter steering wheel.
  • Driving around the burbs and on the open road it has absolutely no play, good feel on center and on turn in without feeling over assisted or nervous.
  • Has a good turning circle and very quick ratio.
  • Shortening the rack slightly means that there is no tyre rub on the front chassis rail on full lock with max size wheel/tyre combo's.

The VASS engineer wanted full details of the mods done to the rack especially maintaining the overall rack width to ensure bump steer is no worse than original! Luckily I had full documentation and photos from this thread which he accepted as proof.

 

The only caveat I would place on this is in regards to pumps: Craig used a Subaru pump, Jamo used an RB Nissan pump and of course mine was a BMW pump. Speaking with power steering specialist they don't believe that pumps will have much influence over performance as most operate in similar volume and pressure ranges. The rack is dumb.....all it needs is volume and pressure and you can buy valves to modulate these if you or the rack aren't happy. 

 

For conversions with an engine that doesn't come with an engine driven hydraulic pump then electric assist looks really good....or you could use a electric hydraulic pump over a normal hydraulic rack. Lots of ways to skin a cat !

  • 10 months later...

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