jamo240

Hey guys...I'm stranded at the corner of Narre Warren north Rd and Thompsons Rd in Cranbourne....and my slave cylinder has died! Has anyone got one in the area I could borrow to get home?? Jamo.... 0425 786 388 Cheers!

I've got a 'tried and true' setup for sale if you're interested....see my post. A heck of a lot better than a stock 280ZX turbo too! Cheers Jamo

Hey all It's been a while since I've posted, but I'm moving out of my current house, and clearing out some stuff I no longer need. Here we have the complete L28 turbo engine and powertrain that I had in my '73 240Z before I put the RB25T in it. I am offering the complete setup here before I decide to part it out! There is the engine itself, which is around 400hp, with a T3/T4 turbo I built up when I was at Nissan Motor Sport in the 90's. The bottom end is an L28 N42 block, with 86.5mm RB30 pistons swinging on L24 rods, and an L28 crank. Cylinder head is a ported N42 with an A-grind cam from a 240Z. The block deck is fitted with 0.060" stainless steel O-rings that ensure no blown head gaskets due to inadequate gasket clamping. The inlet manifold is a customised 280ZX fuel injection manifold with a larger VS Commodore throttle body. Fuel injectors are from a Supercharged VS V6 Commodore engine. The exhaust manifold I made myself and is constructed of heavy wall steam pipe for very long life. It has a custom oil pan that I made along the lines we used to run on the HR31 Skylines at Nissan Motor Sport, complete with trap doors and 7 litre volume for high performance use. It has a lightened flywheel and R32 Skyline GTR clutch. It has crank triggered ignition along with a Motec M48 engine management system, fully calibrated for this package (that's $1,000+ worth of tuning right there!). The engine has probably done around 10,000km in it's life due to the occasional driving I use the car for, and has never been raced. It has had 50/50 coolant in it the whole time, so there is no corrosion in the aluminium components. The gearbox is one I imported from Canada from a 280Z. The FS5W71B transmission as fitted to non-turbo cars that North America got was different to Australia, and had more favorable ratios for a turbo engine, including 5th gear (0.745:1 compared with 0.864 for Australia). With a 3.7:1 rear axle this engine is at 2,500RPM when cruising at 100km/h. I changed all the bearings and seals in it when I put it in the car, and it's in excellent condition for a gearbox of this age...it has not done much work and makes no bearing or gear noises when driving. The car was calibrated at Amberley Autos and starts right up as well as making blistering torque and power from around 2,500RPM. The engine makes useable boost from around 2,000RPM. Even with 235/40R17 tyres, my car will break traction in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears.....it's a very capable package. All inlet ducting, custom made 3" mandrel exhaust system, sensors, fuel pressure regulator, boost control, wiring harness, ECU, radiator is offered. The only things required to support the engine installation into your car is an intercooler, electric fuel pump(s) and electric cooling fans should you choose to run them.....I even set the throttle up so it interfaces with the standard Z linkage setup for easy installation. The engine was removed from the car in 2010, and I would suggest a once-over including replacement of a few seals and gaskets may be in order. I have these parts, and can do it for you if needs be, or you can do it yourself if you'd prefer. Otherwise the engine was preserved when I removed it and will start right up with a minimum of effort. You will get a powertrain that turns a 240/260/280Z into a rocket ship, and all the hard work is done to fabricate things and get the whole lot working as a package, including the tuning which is no small thing with custom turbo charged engines. The whole lot is yours for $5,000, which is a fraction of what it took to set this powertrain up. Cheers! Jamo 0425 786 388

And.....don't confuse registration with insurance. Insurers are concerned with getting a premium out of you first, and paying out a distant second. Registration authorities are concerned with ensuring safe vehicles are on our roads, and are not governed by what insurers do or say. The age of a car does not preclude it from being safe in the event of modification. It's the modification that drives the scrutiny....they want to ensure you have modified it in an acceptable manner. Insurers don't especially care at the time they take your money...they apply the scrutiny at payout time.

Age of the car is irrelevant, regardless of what an insurer might say. Registration authorities require a car to be roadworthy. Where the car is modified beyond certain basic limits, an engineer must inspect and approve the modifications before they can be determined to be roadworthy. The age of the car has no bearing on this requirement. If you put a big block Chev in a 1926 Model T Ford, you will need to have it engineered, and then roadworthied to register it.

Hi Gav I will give you an extreme example to try to visualise the concept.... Imagine that the base circle of the cam is ground with a radius of 20mm....that is, the base circle is 20mm from the centreline of the cam's axis of rotation. The rocker would then be 20mm + 0.012" away from the centreline of the cam. If the cam lobe was pointing away from the rocker, it would have to rotate quite some way in either direction (depending on the grind) until the shape of the cam ramp exceeded the 0.012" clearance and began to open the valve. Our total lift is a function of the difference in the distance of the lobe point to centreline ( let's say it is 30mm) vs base circle to centreline (in this case 20mm). Therefore total lift = 30 - 20 = 10mm. Now....assume we had a super duper mega throw down race grind, and ground all 20mm from the base circle, directly opposite the pointy bit of the cam lobe. We would essentially have a flat opposite the cam lobe, and the rocker would be very near the centreline of cam rotation, as we would have to raise the rocker by 20mm to retain our 0.012" rocker clearance. Now, if we rotated the cam in either direction, we would readily use up our 0.012" clearance and commence opening the valve... We would also have very high lift, as we have subtracted only from the base circle of the cam, but not the nose. So, total lift = 30 - 0mm = 30mm. That is why grinding from the base circle is necessary to, and results in a bigger cam without altering the profile side of the cam (although both are altered in reality). Hope that helps! Jamo

To work out the material to remove, you need to know the head you have, and hence the combustion chamber volume and shape. If the area you are going to machine is 'round', then you can calculate (via pi x r^2 x h) the material to remove via a comparison of volume at BDC vs TDC (look it up). Once you know the TDC volume at present, you can work out how much to remove via machining to achieve the CR you want. You can either figure out the chamber volume using a burette, or look up the chamber volume of your head based on the type that it is (cast in the side of it...eg P90, N42, E31) The CR the engine will tolerate without knocking is influenced by many factors other than the CR itself. Combustion chamber shape and the relationship with the piston are key, as is spark plug temperature. If you changed nothing else, I expect 98 RON would support 10:1, but guys with more experience in stock normally exasperated engines than me might have a more informed view (I'm a turbo guy!).

If it has a Wade 487 grind in it, it was probably a reground stock cam, so with a reduced base circle (look it up) would have had thicker lash pads installed to retain the correct rocker ratio/wipe pattern. I ran a 487X for a while (inlet/exhaust profiles reversed), which Wades claimed was a good turbo cam, but it was not...I digress. Anyway, it was ground on an L24 A grind, and needed thicker lash pads to keep the rocker geometry right... If you go a bigger cam, you will have to make sure this is right, or have someone else set it up for you. Also...I use Orgers for machining in Bayswater. They used to machine the RB26's in the GTR's, and there's not much they can't do out there. Besides...pressure testing/facing a head requires no special Datsun knowledge to do. Jamo

Don't reuse the mangled one. If you get stuck I have a few old tensioners with springs under the bench so I could send you one. Jamo

Hey Kodie You've got the idea...the concept of the synchro is the same as for brass ones. As you may be aware, synchros can be a bit like can openers....ones that do work look the same as ones that don't! I have had synchros that meet the wear test but still don't work so great. As it is usually the 2nd and 3rd gear synchros that wear, you can always swap with the ones on 1st and 4th. If when you compare the clearance (as you have shown in your pictures) you notice a marked difference in the engagement and obvious wear present in the synchro/gear cone combination, then put the best ones on 2nd and 3rd, and replace any that just aren't good enough to go back in. In the days when I rebuilt gearboxes for a job, I did see synchros that looked ok wear-wise, but still were prone to crunching...so there is more going on that just the physical wear...they seem to lose their condition or something, and don't create the same friction they did when new. Cheers Jamo

Yes chaps....quite right....it's easier and more effective to clean the oil galleys if you remove the plugs. Go for it! Jamo

Right on Gareth! And I'll go you one better and confess all at once.... When I rebuilt the RB25DET in my car, I whipped a couple of rod caps off as it looked like there had been paint across the bearing journal from the factory. Sure enough, the bearing was pitted and damaged. So....I had another engine handy, took a couple of bearing shells out of it, checked em for thickness, radial clearance and crush (once installed), and they were fine. Put it all back together and it pushes out 500hp without any fuss. So...if your journals measure up within tolerance and bearing shells look ok you can even get away with putting em back in....I have rebuilt many engines this way without ill effect provided clearances are still in tolerance. Cheers Jamo

While there is no problem at all removing the oil gallery welch plugs and aluminium crankshaft plugs (and replace with threaded plugs), I wouldn't say it's necessary for road car engines either. That modification was really developed for racing engines that are revving hard a lot of the time. If you have a 30 year old engine that has not failed the factory plugs in that time, I'd argue those systems are proven and you're just as well to leave them alone.

Hey Jezza I had a look online, and it appears the WA Authorities apply the provisions of VSB14 for the purposes of assessing vehicle modifications. If you have a look, you will find that the regulation requires the emissions to be consistent with those applicable to the vehicle manufacture date, not the engine. Accordingly, you should be fine to fit a fuel injected engine in place of a carburetted one (it is generally accepted that even without the supporting systems such as charcoal cannisters, later model fuel injected engines will be at least as good as earlier engines....it is certainly an arguable case). http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/licensing/LBU_F_VS_ModificationLightVehicles.pdf http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf I installed an RB25DET in my 240Z (along with a heap of other mods) under VSB14 here in Victoria, and I got through the registration process no problem (after an engineer did all the inspections and tests etc and submitted the file to VicRoads). The provisions of VSB14 are actually pretty sensible, and not particularly restrictive if you think it through before you start. Good luck! Jamo

Why do people over tighten them....? INEXPERIENCE! If you can get at the plug, a hammer and cold chisel will work to remove. When you reinstall, apply neverseize to the threads and do NOT over tighten. Although we used to lockwire them in the Nissan race cars, I never saw them loosen and actually test the wire. Just nip them up and they will come straight out every time. Cheers

I have put it in the diary....I will bring my 240z.

A car like this is gold....fairly original complete condition with minimal rust, known history and evidently we'll cared for. As sure as night follows day, you will spend $30-40k, $500 at a time fixing up a clunker, or start with a solid car like this one? That's what I'd be doing if I wanted a 240 given that most of the donor cars that turn up are shagged.

Hey Jason. I turbod an L28 and ran it for many years on 16psi boost. I still have the engine actually. It has an F54 block and N42 head, with L24 rods and RB30 pistons. ECU is a Motec M48. It has no detonation problems and has lasted very well. Makes heaps of torque and about 240rwkw too. At 10psi I wouldn't get too fussy. Just make sure it's a solid engine and Bobs your uncle. If you can inter cool so much the better. Good luck. Jamo

Thanks Dave! Yes....slow to get it done but boy has it improved the ride to not feel speed constrained! The RB can just do it's thing now...

OK chaps....after some time off the car, I finally got a hold of an angle cube to figure out my driveline vibration. I checked the Universal joint angles, and as I suspected, the diff pinion angle was sloping up toward the front, making the pinion and trans output shaft 2.5 degrees out of parallel. Maximum permissible angle for joint misalignment is 0.5 degrees (note this is NOT the angle the joints can run at, but the DIFFERENCE in angles they are running at as a pair). So, I dropped the gearbox crossmember 5mm, and the differential front cross member (the one that holds the front mount) 15mm. That got the parallelism to 0.25 degrees. I didn't worry about alignment in the lateral plane at this stage, only the vertical plane. Took it for a road test and all sorted...whereas the vibration reliably turned up at 100km/h and up before, this time I went to 160km/h and no sign of any vibration at all. So...I will call it sorted. It's a bit of mucking around to refashion the diff crossmember to drop the mount that far, and it also means the torque reaction strap mount has to be re-made to ensure it is applying a restraining force to the diff housing against torque reaction in the lowered location. Anyway....while it was never a problem when the L series was in the car, there certainly was misalignment present, that once corrected, eliminated the vibration....something to think about if you are having problems with your RB installation. In other breaking news, I found that the front bushes on my rear lower control arms were shagged (they are urethane that I washed in thinners, and that seems to have attacked and degraded the material). Soooo.....does anyone have a set of lower control arm front bushes, or a complete set of original rubber or urethane? Cheers boys n girls Jamo

Love the shed. Spans a few eras. 1980's chicks on the walls. Any decade...steadily building piles of junk that'll still be there when you've got grey hair. The purple wheels gotta go. How's that saying go....Purple and red should never be seen... White, grey, black, red yes. Purple, no. Cheers Jamo

I reckon it's great for people to try new things. There may indeed be other or better solutions. But, the Subie solution works. If you want a proven solution, use it. If not, pioneer something else. It's all cool. I don't think my Z needs power steering at speed....it doesn't. I run about a degree neg camber and a couple or so pos caster. Not crazy alignment by any stretch, but with 235/40R17 tyres, it is heavy to park. That was about the only problem I wanted to cure, as it made the car less fun at low speeds and parking...that's about it. The subie rack did the job I wanted done. Cheers boys....modifying cars is a bit like leggo...you can make whatever ya fink of! Jamo

Hey Retro Happy to share what I know of the installation, including part numbers and all that. Pics and such are in my build thread....see link below. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9281.30.html Check out page 3 or so. I will chase up the details on the Subie rack I used (it wasn't wrx...I didn't use that as it had too few turns lock to lock....I wanted a little less rapid turn in, as with the R spec tyres I had the car was too darty, and the subie (I think might have been a Leonie...will confirm), it ended up with the same turns lock to lock as the OEM 240Z rack)...when I changed to Dunlop Direzza tyres, it is spot on...good turn in without being darty.) Tie rod ends are factory Subaru (once again, will confirm), and the inner tie rod ends are off a Toyota Lexus (I will advise model). It all bolts together without any mods. The rack itself needs to be shortened about 13mm each end (Rob at Robco engineering does that), and I also cut the ears off the rotary valve housing and reindexed them to a more suitable position for the fluid lines, which you will see in the pics work out quite well. Rob also did that at Robco and I have had no problems with any of that. The mods to the cross member were pretty straight forward....you have to take care with dimensional control to ensure the rack is centered and at the right height to avoid bump steer, but if you're taking on a job like this and can't fabricate, you'd be better to pay someone else to do the fab part. I will post the answers above when I have the info together...any other questions just ask. Cheers Jamo

I have put thousands of miles on my Subaru power steering now and confirm it works great. It is absolutely silent....quieter than I had expected, and makes the car a much nicer thing to drive. My other half has a Porsche, and she loves it compared with her car! Looking at the photos, I think the fluid line in the middle of the rack would foul the harmonic balancer for straight 6 engines. It could be relocated, but another modification that the engineers don't like (welding, drilling, cutting of steering components). The Subaru rack is not inordinately difficult to fit, but does have the clearance issue with the RHS engine mount pedestal...if you are a half useful fabricator though, it's not hard to sort out. I also reindexed the rotary valve body on mine, which overcame routing of the fluid lines. It fits fine in my car, and uses the RB25 power steering pump. Most of all.....it WORKS! Cheers Jamo

Here's one that's coming up in Sydney on Monday March 17, 2014 via the Pickles prestige auction.. http://www.pickles.com.au/cars/item/-/details/CP-09-73--Datsun--240Z--Coupe--2-Seats--2-Doors/1103121173 Cheers Jamo