jamo240

Hi Simon...I will do that (intro and pics), as soon as I figure out how! I must make a correction to my post on the ARP question...I meant HEAD bolts, not rod bolts. The standard rod bolts have been fine in my application. It's the head bolts and main cap bolts that are right on the edge of yielding at factory torque settings. Stretching is good in head and main cap bolts, as that's what keeps them tight, and maintains the clamping pressure. But if they yield too much, they're stuffed, and you gotta throw em away.

Hi Craig. The subi rack and Xmem you saw at Rob's is mine. I have a 73 240Z with a turbo L28. The wife got the shyts with the heavy steering, so I am putting pwr steering in it, along with a 550HP RB25DET. So it's out with the old and in with the new. I finished the cross member tonight, and am doing things a little different to you guys. I didn't want the fittings pointing at the xmem, so I am re-welding the rotary valve mounting lugs to position the rack feeds each side of the bellows, the pump lines kinda point at the block, but have plenty of clearance. My Xmem is redrilled to fix the bump steer (move the LCA pivot points out and up), so I only machined 10mm off the rack to retain the original steering lock. I also went with the Subaru Liberty rack, as it has a slower ratio than the WRX. My car has 245/40R17's on it, and is too darty now, so I wanted to slow the gain down a bit, and give it more progressive turn-in, not just faster. I will have to come to a Z event one day and show you...i've been outta the scene for many years now, but decided to give the old girl a new lease on life, so we'll be ready to go this summer.

I have a turbocharged L28 in my 240, (400HP at the crank), and it runs standard L24 rods on RB30 pistons. The engine has been around for 10 years, and has never missed a beat. It is rev limited to 7,000, but rarely sees it, being a turbo. I o-ringed the block using 0.060" stainless wire, and use a standard head gasket. The standard rod bolts are pretty stretchy, but are ok if you can get em up to standard torque and they don't go 'soft' (you will feel them if they do...they kinda keep turning and never reach the required torque, and if you pull em out and measure em, you will find they have necked down, as they stretch). THe main cap bolts tend to do the same thing. I find you need about 2 sets to get one good lot. So...ARP studs are a good thing if you're running high cylinder pressures (ie turbocharged), otherwise, provided you don't over-stretch em, they work fine. Otherwise, all the standard bits are fine. Cheers