jamo240

Guys Years ago I modified the seat mounts (welded into the body) to fit a racing seat. I am now in the process of re-installing the original seat, and need to recreate the original seat mounts. While I could fabricate them, it would be easier to install some out of a scrapped body....sooo, does anyone have a set of the mounts (the ones that are welded to the floor) that could be cut out and then rewelded into my body?? CHeers Jamo 0425 786 388

Hey 53-681 I am finishing of an RB25DET installation in my 240Z, and I would say it is a substantial modification to put it in...not particularly difficult, but there is a fair bit to it. Specifically regarding the engine mounts, I just modified the RH side from a stock VL mount, but the LH side I made from scratch. That is required to put the engine in the correct location in all three axes. As for the rear mount, I used a shortened version of an R33 Skyline mount, and also had to remove the existing 'saddle' from the Z body (drill out the spot welds), then narrow it about 12mm, and move it back about 60mm and weld it back into the body. This is required to make room for the larger Skyline gearbox and pick up the mounting point where the gearbox isolator is. I also had to reconfigure the saddle to accomodate the Skyline trans mount, so it now has 4 x M12 bolts in the vertical plane holding it to the saddle/body, instead of the two horizontal clevis bolt arrangement in the standard 240 gearbox mount...finally, I recessed the LHS mounting point up into the tunnel as far as possible to make room for the exhaust pipe, as a 3.5"pipe ends up annoyingly low if you just make a straight trans mount. This way, I tuck the exhaust up in that area as high as possible, so not much hangs down below the horizontal plane of the chassis longitudinals, and I mount it to the gearbox in this area, so I keep as much structure-borne exhaust vibration out of the cabin as possible. Let me know if you need help. CHeers Jamo

Hey chaps I was talking to someone the other day on here about tall ratio gear sets for R200's (can't remember who though!), and said I would speak to Jeff at McNamara's about it. Well, I did, and he said that the R200 will take a Holden WB era Salisbury gear set as the hypoid geometry is effectively the same! In order to do it, you have to make a sleeve that picks up the (shorter) Holden spline location (which is now inside the diff case, ahead of the tapered pinion bearings, but behind the front ball bearing), and pokes out the front of the pinion oil seal to bolt the flange to. Jeff thinks he could do it, and the tallest ratio in that gear set is 2.6:1. If you're interested in a moon shot ratio, give Jeff at McNamara's a call (Levanswell Rd, Moorabin). CHeers Jamo

Great idea Ledge Not sure how to make all the connections, but I think it's a great idea to try to get cars and their original engines back together. I have kept mine for just that reason, even tho it hasn't been in the car in many years. Good luck! Jamo

I agree with Peter Mc and some of the others. I'm swapping out a 240Rwkw turbo L28 for a 330RWKW RB25, and I've spent over $12,000 on parts so far, and if you added the labour (200 hours and counting), you could add about that in labour. For those who are wondering, here's the rough budget: Engine/trans/Z32 AFM: $3,000 Freight to Melb: $400 Power FC ECU: $1,250 (S/Hand) GT35/40 Turbo: $2,000 Custom front facing inlet plenum: $300 CV joint rear driveshafts: $1,200 R33 R200 driveshaft flange $300 installed Clutch $400 850cc Nismo Injectors $850 3.5" exhaust components $300 Silicon and stainless inlet ducting pipes $200 Reconfigured radiator $350 Turbo cooling and lube pipe parts $150 Painting and plating of parts $500 Gaskets and seals $300 Cam belt, water pump and idler bearing kit $500 Custom sump $500 (i made my own, but it's got every bit of twice that value in it) Total $12,500 I was able to use the c/o front half of the driveshaft that came with the R33 front cut, so didn't need another one of those, but that was luck, based on where i located the engine in the car....otherwise you can add the cost of a new shaft. I also didn't need an intercooler as I already had one...that's another $500 or so. THen add the adapter kit, although I did all that myself, because I didn't like the ones available on the market...took about 50 hours to do the install, so would be about $3.5k in labour. Add wiring harnesses onto this too. Oh, and a bunch of other stuff I can't remember. I have done things very thoroughly, so maybe you could get away with a little less labour if you were paying for it, but I have 200 hours in the job, so that's another $12,000, based on $60/hr commercial rates. So, on the budget you're contemplating, stay with an L series. I'd sell you my old one, but a mate says he wants it. You can get great results with a mild turbo instal, but I would stay normally aspirated for simplicity, and put the other money into handling improvements. Z's don't need stacks of power to be a lot of fun...they're only ~1100kg. Exotic engines and big turbos are for when you're able to waste money at a more rapid rate. Cheers Jamo

Ha! Nice limb climbing MaygZ, but yes, you're right, they work cumulatively, and completely independently of each other. So yes, once you've got full centrifugal advance in, and then get off the throttle at speed, you'll get full manifold vacuum, and hence maximum ign advance....fortunately, under those conditions you need about 1.27hp to keep things turning over, and there is so little in the cylinders, that stacks of spark can't do any damage! Jamo

Thanks Mick How did you get the displacement of the needle to work right...ie get the angular displacement to represent the correct rpm...did it just work out lucky, or did you have to customise the displacement to work with the layout of the std Z tach fascia? Cheers Jamo

Thanks Wayne The pin you're talking about is pin 7 on the ECU. I don't believe this will drive a Z tach, but feel free to have a go. I think the Z tach's are driven from the +ve side of the coil, and this is quite an unusual approach by current standards. I would say that the output from the R33 ECU is a processed signal that the tach would 'read'and then display as the engine speed. The Z signal is just a raw unprocessed output from the coil. Anyway, could be worth a go. Let's see if anyone else has already faced and overcome this (potential) problem. Cheers Jamo

OK...I think I may be wrong with the Z tach being driven off the ground side of the coil....seems like it is off the +ve side...there is also a common feed to all six coils on the RB25, so is there a consensus that this may be the spot to look??? Cheers

Hey team A bit of theory on distributors for anyone who might be wondering. The ability of the breaker plate (the plate the ign points are screwed onto) to move relative to the distributor housing via the vacuum servo is how the dizzy modulates ign timing wrt engine LOAD. The ability of the cam that opens and closes the ignition points to move relative to the dizzy drive shaft is how the dizzy modulates ign timing wrt engine SPEED. The load side of the timing 'map' is there to advance timing when the cylinders are not filling as efficiently, which is when we're cruising at highway speeds, with lots of manifold vacuum (ie only part throttle opening)...this is essential to achieving good fuel consumption. The speed side of the timing map is there to advance timing as the engine speed increases, and there is less time for the fuel charge to burn...this is essential to increasing power as the engine speed increases, so that maximum cylinder pressure is being achieved throughout the power stroke. To disable the load side of the dizzy will mostly affect everyday driveability and especially fuel consumption. To disable the speed side of the dizzy will mostly affect driveability and power. While you can fiddle around with a timing light in your back yard and all that, it is impossible to set a dizzy up properly in a car without a dyno to load up the engine, and effectively superimpose the effects of load and speed on the distributor to understand what the timing is across the engine operating range. This is a job best done by an auto electrician/engine man who has a distributor test bench...they mount the dizzy on the bench, which can run through the full speed range while applying vacuum as well, and therefore work up the whole picture for you. They will mess around with spring tensions, advance weights to get not only the total advance where you want it, but also develop the curve between the setting at idle thru to full power. This is driven by compression settings, cam timing/profile, exhaust and carburettion etc. The very best set up is to go to someone who has a chassis dyno and a dizzy bench, and they will get the whole thing setup to give max power thru the rev range, good driveability and good cruise/fuel consumption as well. You can then decide which of these you want to compromise on depending on what you're using the car for. CHeers Jamo

Hey guys Does anyone have knowledge on how to drive a Z tach with an RB ignition system? As we know, the Z tach is driven off the ground side of the (single coil). The RB engine uses an igniter (a power transistor) that grounds each of the six coils in turn to fire the cylinder. The ECM controls the igniter transistors (ie switches current on and off in the coil primary cct thru the igniter), and I guess it uses this information to feed the engine speed through to the R33 Skyline tach. Each transistor in the igniter appears to ground the primary side of the coils through a common ground, so that may be the spot to hit to find a signal which would replicate the ground side of a standard single Z coil??? From what I've heard, the standard signal from the ECM will not drive a Z tach, so it seems either you have to amplify that signal into something the Z tach understands, or use the igniter ground for the six coils to pick up a signal the Z tach will respond to. Any comments? Has anyone already overcome this issue already?? CHeers Jamo

No Problem...I know he does adaptations of all kinds of gear sets into other diffs and all that, so he's familiar with it. I will see what he can do to put a moonshot ratio in an R200. Sounds like your going for a dry lake setup! Jamo

Hey chaps I have had some of my interior trim panels plastic welded...it works pretty well, and although not perfect, after it's painted, does not show up the repair very much at all. Worth a try, that's for sure. Jamo

Hey Zexy I am almost through with my RB installation, so happy to share a few thoughts with you if you want. Cheers Jamo

Mate that is one of the best looking sheds I have ever seen. A credit to you, even if it is full of Ford memorabilia. I was with Nissan Motor Sport in the early 90's, when on a quiet day you could hear the head gaskets letting go on DJ's sierra as he tried to catch the Skylines. Looking forward to the 260 taking shape old mate. Jamo

Hey young fella. One other piece of advice the other chaps have missed. Don't get married until you've got your Z...she'll never understand. And, make sure you've got a pre-nup that protects it. I managed to hang on to my 240Z when I got divorced, but only on the highly technical legal argument that I can sleep in my Z, but I can't do laps in my house. I don't think that defense works anymore though..... so my current future ex wife understands the situation .... I can keep the car provided I give her my semi-vital internal organs. Jamo

Thanks Alan...looks like I will be the first then! I was an NDSOC member years ago, so warm up a chair for me, cos I am coming back! Cheers Jamo

Hi Brabham I was down there today. He has a 3.7 and 3.54 on the shelf. He has a bunch of new gear sets for R180's, so if you don't have to have an R200, that's a chance. If anyone could make of modify a gear set, it's McNamaras. They have gear hobbing machines and all the stuff required all over the place, and 50 years of experience. Let me know exactly what you want and I'll ask him if he can do it...I'll be back down there mid next week. Cheers Jamo

Thanks Alan Looks like I fall into the engineers cert category...does the NDSOC have one they prefer to deal with on Z's? Cheers Jamo

Hey Brabham Noticed you're searching for an R200. I am having mine set up down at Jack McNamara's in Moorabin (here in Melbourne), and noticed he had a few gear sets on the shelf, as well as some housings there, so he could set you up with one if you're struggling to find one. Cheers Jamo

No probs HUW. I actually have a 15/16 280ZX MC in front of my standard 240Z booster, and it all works pretty well....has done for years. I have Porsche GT3 Brembo calipers up front, and 45mm VT commodore calipers at the back, with an adjustable proportioning valve front/rear. It seems to provide enough hydraulic force at the wheels without bending the steering wheel, and has good modulation too.

Welcome Charlie...we were all once where you are now! While the 240Z could be argued to be the 'original and best'(Disclosure: I own one!), I think the 280ZX may be more practical for you. When I bought mine in 1987, the situation was the other way around...240Z's were relatively cheap compared with 280's, and were easier to work on...280's had fuel injection and more buttons and stuff to go cack. Nowadays the 240's are collector cars, and any cheap ones will need a zillion dollars spent to fix them up. All good ones are dear. A 280ZX on the other hand is relatively cheap to procure, and provided it's not stuffed, could be made nice and kept going for less than a 240. You should understand that at the age 240's are now, just about everything is worn out on them, and all those little bushes, grommets, rubbers, brackets and things add up to lots of $$ to find and make your car nice. Finally, the 280ZX will have more room for your mates than a 240. If the Z bug bites, you'll probably find yourself in a 240 or 260 at some stage, but they're probably better to suited for when you're a touch older and have the money to do it right. Happy to help you look at cars when the time comes. Cheers Jamo

Hey HUW I have an R33 booster and master cylinder here if you still need one...I got it off a half cut I used to get an R33 engine/trans, and I don't need the booster and MC, so let me know if you still need one. Cheers Jamo

Hi Guys Can anyone fill me in on CH registration for my 240Z. I heard that the law has changed, and you can now drive the car 90 days a year, provided you keep a log book. That's heaps for me, so happy to move away from the expense of normal rego. Anyone got a view about this, and knowledge on how to get CH rego? Cheers Jamo

I use a dash (5%) methanol in a tank of Shell Ultra for a margin of safety against knock in my turbo engine. I have a slightly richer injection calibration (Motec M48 Pro) for it, as the stoic ratio is different to straight petrol. While the calorific value of methanol is lower than petrol, the increase in effective octane ratio is impressive, and I can put 5 PSI more into the engine with no knock. I also buy the methanol in 20l drums from CSR, and this way you can avoid paying fuel excises...it's quite cheap this way! Toluene is spposed to be pretty good too, but I've never used it. Cheers