jamo240

Ooops...spoke to soon....$280 I see. Sorry! Jamo

Hey Mossy How much do you want for the door? Cheers Jamo

Hey Batman Carbies don't REQUIRE fuel pressure as such to function (unlike fuel injection, which requires the pressure to push the fuel through the injectors as they open). With carburettors, the function of the pump is only to provide fuel to the carburettor at sufficient volume to support the flow rate at maximum power, but only at a pressure that won't overcome the needle and seat arrangement in the carburettor. The needle and seat works in conjunction with a float to maintain a constant fuel level inside the float bowl. The fuel then flows through jets and emulsion tubes at rates governed by the air flow going through the carburettor, which is in turn related to the throttle opening. If the fuel level in the float is too high, the engine will run rich. This happens if the needle and seat is defective, or if excessive fuel pressure is applied which will render the needle and seat ineffective. This will certainly be the case if you feed a carburettor with a fuel injection pump. Most carbies will not be too fussy about fuel pressure, as long as it's always there. I would go with 3-4 PSI on just about anything. If you can't afford a fuel pump to test the theory, put some fuel in a drum and hold it above the engine and simply gravity feed it to the carbie....that will enough to determine if that fixes your problem as low fuel flow rates. Finally, what's wrong with using a factory mechanical pump? I have a few here, and I am sure you can get one from guys in Qld. Cheers Jamo

Hey XNKE I used to work for Long Manufacturing...I was their Australian agent, so I know a bit about their products. The stacked plate cooler has the lowest performance of their product range. It's appeal for OEM's is its low manufacturing cost and relative robustness compared with fin and plate coolers. Fin and plate is higher performance however. The reason is that the limiting constraint of all air to oil coolers is the air side heat rejection....due to oil's higher density, it's relatively easy to get the heat from the oil into the aluminium, but much harder to get the heat from the aluminium into the air at the same rate. As fin and plate has a greater air-side surface area, it's performance is superior. The downside (for OEM's), is that they are more expensive and more prone to damage and fouling from insects etc. My personal preference is for oil-water heat exchangers. The appeal of this configuration is that both the fluids in question have higher density than air, hence heat exchanger efficiency (and therefore power density) is superior to air-oil. Additionally, the exchanger also warms the oil up which is good for the engine during starting and cold weather. Also, the exchanger does not require radiator packaging space (assuming you use a donut cooler or matrix cooler which you can locate wherever you want), and hence does not obstruct air flow to the radiator. Finally, as the oil cooler needs to do its best work at speed when the oil is hottest, you don't compromise radiator performance at lower speeds when air flow is limited due to vehicle speed, and when the speeds are high and the oil hottest, the radiator is working at its best. The design constraints you need to consider are choosing a water to oil exchanger that has an adequate rating to transfer the heat you need to reject, and of course configuring your radiator to reject the additional heat the oil will put into the engine coolant. If you get the design right, it works very well. Cheers Jamo

Well lads, I am back from Japan.... What a trip! Literally! It is a great place...the trains are out of this world. So much better than any of our systems it doesn't bear comparison. Anyway...I made it to Rocky Auto, and the owner (Yoshiya Watanabe) greeted us like royalty....sat us down and had green tea with us even though he can't speak any English and we couldn't communicate! I had a mate with me who is a National Geographic journalist, so he took a squillion pictures, some of which I will post when I get them. The metal on display was awesome. A number of those early GTR skylines with the L20 engines in the showroom, and an original 432 240Z. I sat in that one and drooled as I looked at the 10,000RPM (factory) tacho. I also got sat in the black one he has with the big flares and RB engine. The one he has with the yellow and carbon fibre black panelling and carburetted RB engine is a sweet ride too. He started that one for me and I have some video of me giving it a little rev....I will post that one too! All in all, a great day with a great bloke and lots of toys. There are plenty of things for sale there too. I asked the price on one of the early GT Skylines and it was $77,000. The GTR Skylines he had in the showroom were pricey too...the KGC-110 was $220,000. I didn't even ask how much on the 432 240Z! It turns out there are quite a few places around Nagoya that do this kind of thing, so you have more choices than just Rocky. If you choose to go there, it's pretty easy to get to. Just take the Shinkansen (fast) train to Nagoya, then the local Tokaido line to Okazaki station, and a taxi from there will cost you $8 and about 5 minutes. Anyway...I can highly recommend the car scene around Nagoya, and if you happen to be there at the right time of year (September), definitely consider the Auto Legends car show at Port Messe, Nagoya. It has all the Japanese stuff up to Keith Black Hemi powered top fuelers.

Hey Doom I imported a 280ZX box from Canada a few years back that has the super duper low ratio 5th gearset (~0.746:1 from memory) which gives you 2500RPM at 100km/h with a 3.7 final drive. The aussie ratio is more like 0.86x, and is too low imho for useful street driving. How much do you want to spend for said gearbox?! Jamo

Mossy: Where is MOS burger? Retro: I haven't really identified anything I need at the moment parts-wise, but I will give it some thought. Any parts anyone desperately wants me to look for while i am there? Jamo

Hey guys...thanks for all the great information...still digesting it. We are gonna start in Tokyo for a couple of days, and then make our way to Shizuoka to check out the Unryu Onsen. Then onto Nagoya/Kyoto...just trying to decide which, and how best to spend the time to see a car place or two. Check out what there is around Kyoto (may not be just car stuff), and then on to Hiroshima and a night at Miyajima Island. Then we are gonna get the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. So, with all that in mind, happy to take your suggestions on what could be cool to do. We aren't intending to get a car, but could if it made sense to. Cheers Jamo

Hey DeCoy I know it's an old thread, but I am heading up to Japan in early June, and am going through Nagoya. Do you think a visit to Rocky Auto is worth the time? If so, do you know which train to take? Also, are there any other auto places worth visiting? I was thinking of the Toyota museum... Cheers Jamo

Late call for a simple part!! Hey lads...has anyone got one of the screws that holds the seat back mechanism to the seat back? It is an M8 phillips head countersunk screw. I am short one, and would appreciate if anyone has got one to bring it on a trip to PI!! See you soon gents.... Cheers Jamo

Well boys, I just got back from VicRoads, and the two fitty is now registered with the RB25 engine...final piece of the puzzle. The guy at VicRoads didn't know what it was, but loved it! Something I wasn't aware of that you may want to know. When you turn up at VicRoads to have the engine number inspection done, along with your VASS, you also need to have a receipt for the engine. I did have one, but it didn't have an engine number on it, so while I got away with it, if you haven't got a receipt at all, you need to fill out a Stat Dec to get them to accept the change. Cheers Jamo

Very well....can't put an old head on young shoulders....we should have this discussion again when you are 40! Jamo

i bought my 73 240Z in 1987. At that time, they were still pretty hard to find. Obviously there were more than now, but they were never common. This was before the internet, and the trading post or classifieds in the Age is where you found them. I looked at quite a few 2 seaters back then, and many had rust in those days when they were just 14 or so years old. I paid $3,700 for mine in 1987, and it needed rust repairs then (fuel tank filler, battery area of firewall and rear hatch striker panel). Fortunately it did not need dogleg work...that was all good. At that time, I was an apprentice mechanic and I earned $113/week less tax. So, that was a LOT of money back then for a first car, but I spent it to get what i wanted. 25 years have passed since then. You cannot expect to get an even half alright 2 seater for 7-8k unless someone very naive is selling it. If you can find a cheap 2 seater, you will spend a motza on panel repairs if you want to do them properly, unless you're a good panel man, in which case you better have plenty of free weekends available to you. My advice as an older fart who has done this a time or two: Save for longer, and spend what you need to spend to get the best body you can find....the mechanical work is relatively straight forward compared with the body work. PAY THE $$ TO GET A CAR WITH A GOOD BODY IF AT ALL HUMANLY POSSIBLE! Jamo

I had both my L28 turbo and now RB25DET (435HP at the flywheel) plumbed like this: - Lift pump draws fuel from standard 5/16 tank pickup and feeds into a 1 litre surge tank. - Main Bosch 044 pressure pump picks up from surge tank via a 5/8 inlet to pump - Feed to the engine goes through a new 3/8 feed line (reduce to standard RB 5/16 feed at the fuel rail) - Return to tank goes through original 5/16 feed line (now a return line) This setup works fine and I have never experienced fuel starvation or problems returnining the fuel to the tank via the 5/16 return. Cheers Jamo

I may be a starter too. Cranny works ok. Cheers Jamo

Hey Scoota....I'll be invoking the secret Auszcar handshake....works every time.

Thanks Agno....while they are never done, I am pretty happy with where it is now at. Cheers Jamo

And anothery...

OK lads...here are a few pics of the two fitty now that it's about done....for now at least.....

Well it seems different people have had different experiences indicating it may be possible to get a RWO treated the same as an undamaged car from an insurance and rego perspective...that's good...perhaps there is still some common sense happening. Approach with caution however, and make absolutely sure you can get what you need before you hand over the bikkies. Cheers Jamo

See you there Gareth...should be a great few days provided the weather holds out... Jamo

Yes there were dodge David! About as grippy as railway wheels!!! Oh, I had a new prop-shaft built too, and that got rid of the high frequency buzz above 70mph...little by little I am getting the bugs out of it! Jamo

It's all too hard! I'm gonna do the nancy boy thing and just come and watch you blokes fang around or go do the nav run. Or, perhaps just have a few beers down at the beach! All this rooting around for a few laps at PI is more than I can justify... For clarity though, do you actually need a roll cage to run, or can you run without one? Cheers Jamo

I almost bought one of these and decided not to. It was a NSW registered Mitsubishi Triton probably $15k under the normal value for one of these, and it all looked like a good thing as you couldn't tell it had ever even been damaged. However, I talked to the previous owner and he filled me in on a couple of things. First was that dealers won't touch them, and he had a very hard time selling it and more-or-less had to give it away, and perhaps most importantly, no insurer would cover it because it was a repairable write-off, so basically it was a paddock basher. I decided it was no longer cheap, and did not go with it. I would treat repairable write off's as parts cars. Cheers Jamo

Lots of helpful tips from the peanut gallery! There are very few dodgy roadworthy's now...they are required to retain photographic evidence these days, and so they can be easily caught out. Particularly in the case of selling, you would be very lucky to find anyone who will help you there. You can always sell the car WITHOUT RWC, and leave it for the new owner to get it. Obviously the price you get on the car will be lower, but if the new owner feels they can do the repairs cheaper than you, it is one way out of it. Cheers Jamo