jamo240

To my Northern (Qld) friends: does anyone know where I can pick up a Datsun or Datsun 240Z t shirt in Brisbane? Odd request I know, but any help appreciated chaps! Jamo

You know what I'm thinking Mick.... How can one man know so much.....? Jamo

Hi TBOWGN I run 17x8's on mine. 235/40R17 tyres. Suspension is King springs on shortened legs with Koni special D shocks. Adjustable spring perches which once set I have never adjusted again! I am happy with those tyres, although 225 would be ok too. I had to roll the guards to get them to fit too. I run Dunlop Direzza Z1's and they hook the RB up very well. I have about 450 BHP (not sure what that is in rear wheel kilopascals I am afraid). Cheers, Jamo

Hey chaps..yes, I am running the R200 diff. I will let you know what I find....I am comfortable there is an answer....uni joint driveshafts aren't rocket science. I am pretty sure it is just a front/rear joint angular conflict. The angle checks with the special tool will tell the story. I don't think it is related to load (ie diff angle changing due to torque reaction), as I can get the vibration even at light load/high vehicle speed, whereas full load at lower speeds creates no vibration. Dat240Z: Yes, that description of the vibration is similar in my car....you can get it under both load and trailing throttle, but the characteristic/sound/feel changes slightly....it is related to speed...for example I can go to say 120km/h down a hill and get completely out of the throttle and the vibration is still there...it is a function of the driveshaft speed, not the load. Cheer, Jamo

Thanks chaps....I love the color too...not original, but I reckon it works on the shape well. Cheers Jamo

Hey Lars Glad the thread has been some help. I have been very happy with the RB engine....it is a much nicer thing to drive, esp with power steering...that's the most 'feel-able' difference, but the RB engine is a fair bit smoother, and the transmission shift is a nicer thing too. Main issue I have had to track down is a driveline vibration. I have tracked it down to misaligned Uni's....I have maintained the same alignment as the L-series, which did not have vibration, but this setup has exhibited it. I have got onto a mate at Ford who works in their powertrain engineering and he has all the special tools to measure uni-joint angles... I will let you go what the solution turns out to be, but at this stage it's looking like the diff pinion needs to come down at the front a bit. Cheers Jamo

Hey fellas. I bought the entire interior 240Z kit from MSA....the trim is a pretty good approximation of the original trim, although the rear strut tower trims are cut a bit too small in my view...tricky to get the trim stretched properly to make sure the adjoining plastic trim covers it properly. The tunnel trim was a good fit though...you just have to put the cuts and holes in it yourself where things have to fit through. Cheers Jamo

The rack has a bracket that looks like an exhaust u-bolt clamp, but with a bump stop added to it that dictates the radial orientation of the rack...if you want to lay it back a bit, this is the part you adjust to get the angle where you want it. Jamo

It may be possible to re-orient them for more clearance too. The metal wings are essentially there to limit the travel of mount under extreme loads and to control movement in the event the rubber fails altogether. If the clearance can't be remedied by re-orienting, then you can trim the steel wing back to provide the required clearance and not compromise the performance or safety of the mount. Cheers Jamo

The photo is a bit hard to interpret, but, the standard Z mount does not have the steel U section from memory. If it's too close, either cut it off, or go with a replacement isolator that does not have it. With the right isolator, there is stacks of clearance to the steering shaft. Jamo

That's good to hear Mossy...rubber is better for a road car. I would still use the same method to R&R them though. Cheers Jamo

Here's my two cents worth.... If it's a road car, Z's have so much diff noise transmitted to the frame I would not replace rubber with urethane anyway...it will just transmit even more noise! I am contemplating double isolating mine (ie diff to moustache bar, then moustache bar to body) to shut it up. Voided rubber bushes all the way! But, if urethane is what you want to do, then why not cut the bottom part of the bush right thru (ie slice it off either top or bottom where it abuts the moustache bar), and then turn up a pilot that centres in the bolt hole and picks up the diameter of the bush casing and just press it out on a hydraulic press (often a socket will do this job if you have a good range of them too). Presto! a bit of setting up, but easy as pie once you've made up a tool Cheers Jamo

Thanks Stivva...dollars coming your way. Cheers Jamo

Hey Oldmate. Don't be scared of the engineering approval process. While there is a little bit of creativity you need to apply (eg referring to make of caliper not car it came off), the process is in place because a lot of very dodgy cars were being produced via modifications that were dangerous (my engineer recently refused to test a Corvette that had been presented for brake testing with a tek screw holding the ADR compliant seat belt retractor into the fibreglass body). It really does happen. Provided you do your mods properly, and they actually work (for example, my engineer was not obsessed with which parts I used in the brake system, he just reviewed the work had been done properly, and then tested it to ensure it could meet the fade test and max G requirements, and all was well). It's worth getting it done in this day and age of litigation. If God forbid you are involved in a serious accident, your insurance may be void and you leave yourself open to being sued as well as charges being laid. It's a false economy to try to save money in this area. Plan it properly, execute it properly, and the engineering process is no problem. Cheers Jamo

Mate you are in luck....I have one in the shed from years ago when I used to build manifolds at Mahnkens Autotune in Melbourne. Let me know if your Tassie supplier doesn't work out and I will get it over to you. Cheers Jamo

Josh I did an RB swap in my 240z along with a bunch of other mods incl brakes and power steering. Talk to Paul Bottomley at Roaring Forties... He is a registered VASS agent. He is a good guy...very experienced and practical. If you do it properly engineering is no problem. Cheers Jamo

I would like a 240z one if you still have some. I got an msa one but it cracked where they fold over in a matter of months. Cheers Jamo

Hey zzed I have a pod filter on my RB25DET, along with a Z32 AFM and Apexi ProFC fuel controller. Idles perfectly when stone cold and doesn't miss a beat driving it cold either. So from my experience, there is no reason design-wise why RB's don't run well cold with non-standard air filters.

A Z31 is 300ZX isn't it? Jamo

Am pretty sure I got a set of these....they had the embroidered Z on them and all! They actually arrived from Karachi (Pakistan), so I guess they have a vendor there making them. I didn't mind, as they have made sports balls for years over there so know the job! Anyway, they are a tight fit, and I also fitted new seat squab foams, so they were a bit tighter as a result. They ended up fitting well with minimal 'loose' spots (where the fabric isn't stretched properly). They don't have as good a tie system at the bottom compared with the factory trims (wire cable), but it doesnt really matter, and I don't think you could tension it effectively without special tools, so you just clip the trim into the factory steel tags and that works pretty good. Fitment tip: Turn the seat backs inside out and start at the top and work down. For the bottoms, align at the front and work your way toward the back.

I fitted 235/40R17 Z1's on the 240, and the were $300 each fitted at Stuckeys. A very reasonable price for such a good tyre that is not available at normal Dunlop retailers. Cheers Jamo

Hey fellas....I have got the direzza Z1's on my 240Z. They are absolutely fantastic! I replaced the Yokohama AO32R's with the Dunlop's, and they are chalk and cheese. The Dunlops are far less darty on the road (much better lateral stability), and much better when cold....the Yokie's only worked any good when they were hot, which was hardly ever on the road. I am sure the Z2's are good too, but I am very happy with the Z1's. Put em on, you won't regret it! Jamo

Hey Dave...yes, that's the place! I haven't personally had one made by them, but I did visit to have a look at what they could do and cost one for my car. The work I saw looked good, so I was happy to let them have a go. As it turned out, I decided to go with a factory 3.5" straight through muffler that has worked just fine. It's not that complicated though, so I was happy enough that they would have been able to do the job. Cheers Jamo

Hey Dave....that Audi racing place across the road from Purple Pig in Bayswater will make you a custom muffler. Not unreasonably priced, and they do beautiful work. Cheers Jamo

Lads...sorry for the slow response, I haven't been on for a while. NZeder: I would aim for about a 5kW heat exchanger (HXr). A large 'donut' cooler can go close, or a 'matrix' style cooler certainly can. You can buy one already done that may suit, but if not, you can make one up from the HXr that's in many diesel engines (Cummins have a beautiful one made in stainless steel), that can be enclosed in a casing so the oil goes inside the matrix, and the coolant flows through the casing you made for it. You can locate it anywhere, and just plumb the oil and coolant to it. That way you use the radiator to cool the coolant that cools ALL the engine fluids, rather than using separate radiators for each fluid, and run into all the packaging problems that result. Dave: I am not really a fan of the plate type cooler....as I said in an earlier post, they are relatively low performance, and are exist because they are cheap to make and work ok for many OEM applications, where low performance is acceptable. If you must go air-oil, then go tube/fin...easily the highest performance out there. Setrab do make good HXr's. Cheers Jamo