Hiroshima Screama

[gav240z]

Wowwow wee wahhhh I like it a very much.

We need a new car on our homepage can we do a write up on it and use these awesome pics? I'm away at the moment but will start when I get back?

[Sirpent]

Looks great Buddy, Im bias as mine was originally a similar cooler back in the 80's but without the flairs, think there is a pic of it in my thread.

 

Well done

[Stivva]

We'll see Gav, more photos will be taken before then and I still have a few things to get done on it this week. But I sure that will be done before you return.

[Stivva]

 

Engine bay is the next target for Renavation. I will do doing some wire hiding and reprinting and polishing and I would like to replace the radiator with an alloy one at some stage.

[MaygZ]

WOW.  That's all I can say.

[tbscobraZ]

Did you boot mount your battery? Or am I blind. Looks stunning.

[Stivva]

Yeah, the battery is in the hatch area behind the passenger seat. I want to put an oil catch can in the bay where the battery used to reside.

 

I have a couple more photos taken by other people too.

 

 

[zeds4ever]

  Hey steve,she's really come up a treat . Great choice of colour but those wheels mate did your missus buy them for you.Just kidding pal I'm jelous.Will get stuck into the dissy for you next week it should work ok will give you a ring as soon as it's finished but you will need to get a coil , make sure it suits elctrnc set up.

 

                                                                                        Regards: Alan. 

[Stivva]

Thanks Alan!

 

I am working on the cabin at the moment. I have just pulled the cloth roof lining out to replace it with a vinyl one like factory spec I guess. The black vinyl was $15 for the meter which was plenty. And I used a Shelly's petroleum glue paste (not spray) to stick to the foam. Looks a treat.

[Stivva]

Hey guys, between the choke and demister lights in the center console what should be there? Is it a blank plate or a switche of some kind??

[sydney mike]

The previous owner of my 260z put the flashing alarm light there so I'll assume it was a blank, also the owner's manual diagram shows nothing there. Looking good btw!

[Tj]

Quick question. Are you now running wheels spacers?

The reason I ask is looking over your older photos prior to you running flares and they're tucked in really neatly and then later with the flares and cut arches they fill those up nicely too. 

 

What black magic be at play here? 

 

And then...

[Stivva]

Yes I am! Keen eye you have there! I bought the spacers after I bolted the flares on so I was able to measure up a perfect fit.

 

I have a bit of a problem with my headlights. Maybe somebody will be able to help me out here.

My headlights suddenly stopped working. My dash and taillights work no problems, but nothing up front.

I ran a bypass switch that allowed me to turn on the high beams so they are working up the front end (power and earth are making it to the beams.

The bypass actually bypassed the indicator switch. So I bought a new indicator switch thinking that would solve the problem. No luck I am afraid. The new switch ha the same result; tail lights and dash lights but no headlights. However the new switch turned on the highbeams when then indicator stalk was toggled left or right to indicate (killing my indicators).

 

Any ideas? Why has my headlight disappeared? And why would the new switch turn on the highbeams rather that the indicators?

[Tj]

Awesome, now I know (roughly) what size and offset to look for when I start chasing wheels 

 

I had a similar problem with headlights where I melted the innards of the hi/lo beam toggle switch. Theres a rocker type switch that pivots on a big brass pin (kinda looks like a short little centre-punch) the higher current I was unknowingly pulling through the switch melted the plastic pushing the brass bit further into the plastic making the rocker contacts just float around rather than make.. er.. contact. I bodgied it so I have headlights but have to hold the pass button for highbeam  :-\ It works so I haven't bothered replacing it. I'm lazy.

[Stivva]

Good suggestion, however I just out a new switch in today and all it did was turn my indicators into a high beam toggle WTF?!?!?!

[PZG302]

If you are not running relays at your lights and have upgraded them to something that will put out decent light, eg a 100W high beam, you may have fried the new switch when you flicked on the high beams.

 

The standard lights were only 55W high beam, giving you roughly 10amps through the circuit. The switch should cope with that. If you have upgraded lights to say 100W then the combined 200W will be putting about 20amps throughg the switch which it probably won't like. Especially with 40 year old wiring.

 

On any old car I have owned, pre 2000, I generally upgrade the lighting circuit with relays so that the only current going through the switch is to flick the relays on and off. I also upgrade the wiring from battery, through relays and to the lights to handle whatever power I need, and have used multiple relays for switching depending on the lights. My old ZG fairlane had two relays to run the standard 4 light set up, though those lights were 90/140W low high beam and 100W aircraft landing lights, so on high beam a total of 480W with a current draw of 40amps, enough to fry most headlight circuits and require a alternator upgrade to keep up with them. The big advantage, I could see about 2km down the road when doing a late night/early morning brisbane Sydney run at a touch over the speed limit.

[Stivva]

Ok, so I will buy some new globes and replace the headlight switch and see what happens

[PZG302]

have you fitted relays for the light circuit?

 

If not, chances are you will keep blowing the switch up, they don't like putting up with high current loads over a period of time.

[wildy55]

Hey

Been trawling the 'Bay and found these

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280775061241?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1931wt_1067

LED headlight bulbs. You can get them to the equivalent of 100w, but being LED they'll demand less power. I reckon that means you can have the brightness without the power draw, hence not needing to add the relays. But I may be wrong... Anyone like to pump/deflate my tyres on this?

[Stivva]

I actually bought a set of those a few months back, but they didn't work on high beam, just low beam.

I have not fitted a relay..... I would know the first thing about that

[MaygZ]

I actually bought a set of those a few months back, but they didn't work on high beam, just low beam.

I have not fitted a relay..... I would know the first thing about that

 

OK, now I'll put myself out there to be burned:

 

A relay is effectively a switch.  You put it in your current light circuit but earth out the other side.  That is to say you run power from your switch (unless our light switch is the earth??) and then earth the other side.  Your light switch simply needs to complete a circuit through the relay.

 

The relay has 4 pins.  To the another pin you run a high power wire (direct battery feed if you like) and then the last pin supplies current to the lights in place of the original wire.  You can run a larger wire here (4-5mm).

 

In this way you original switch is only running a low current that then only operates another switch (relay) that then carries the higher current to your lights.

 

Relays, like anything have their limit, but almost any that you buy at supercheap/autobarn/repco/Moorabbin Auto Spares will be fine for the amount of current you will be able to run.  It's about the size of a matchbox and can be fitted in the beautiful engine bay you have of stuffed up under the dash out of sight.  Up to you.

 

There is a wiring diagram on the bottom of the relay itself to show you which pin does what.  Considering the level of work you have done on the screamer so far, you will find a relay a piece of pi$$

 

Let the flaming begin!!!!

[wildy55]

Nor did I but look on the net and they're explained easy. Basically you wire up the lights independently of the factory wiring. Then you use the relay as a switch to operate them via the car's normal light switch. It's like two circuits with the lights drawing off the new wiring and hence not burning out the original wires.

[Linton]

here you go, I should say the wire colours will be different

[MaygZ]

Good diagram. Just missing power to he switch.  There you go Stivva.  Easy done.

 

MaygZ

[Stivva]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. But I will be putting it off for a week.

I blew my head gasket yesterday, and will now be working on that over the weekend. I was hoping to drive down to Bright over christmas, but that is looking a little doubtful right now