Sirpent Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 Left Seatle 2 days ago David, So 24 odd days to go now. Fingers crossed. Quote
RB30X Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 The ECU needs to know positions of both cams relative to the crank at all times. Wow that is awesome how you were able to diagnose the issue then replace the sensors and have the problem disappear. And I thought my ls1 had smart technology. can you buy an iPhone app or something to have similar access to the codes through your phone like your mates scan tool. You can get on for my engine but the plug itself is still a few hundred $$$. Are the teeth on the cam sensor wheels different, they look similarly spaced in the photo. As in, can the sensors tell where the position the cam is in or just that it is spinning? I guess if the chain was to fail they would pick it up and kill the ignition or something like a safety switch. Quote
MaygZ Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 Doesn't it make you miss carbies?? Will be amazing when running. MaygZ Quote
KatoKid Posted August 13, 2011 Author Posted August 13, 2011 Just had the member from the BMW forum come around with his scan tool. Cleared all the codes and ran the engine again and hey presto no cam position codes! Wow that is awesome how you were able to diagnose the issue then replace the sensors and have the problem disappear. And I thought my ls1 had smart technology. can you buy an iPhone app or something to have similar access to the codes through your phone like your mates scan tool. You can get on for my engine but the plug itself is still a few hundred $$$. Are the teeth on the cam sensor wheels different, they look similarly spaced in the photo. As in, can the sensors tell where the position the cam is in or just that it is spinning? I guess if the chain was to fail they would pick it up and kill the ignition or something like a safety switch. Tim, codes are read by this aftermarket tool http://www.peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm its a basic tool and no where near as refined or capable as the BMW factory diagnostic system but good enough for my needs. Teeth on the wheels are different yet they are similarly spaced, sensors tell what position of advance or retard the cams are in. On most BMW engines that use a single VANOS, the timing of the intake cam is only changed at two distinct rpm points, while on the double-VANOS system, the timing of the intake and exhaust cams are continuously variable throughout the majority of the rpm range. Double-VANOS improves low rpm power, flattens the torque curve, and widens the powerband for a given set of camshafts. Quote
RB30X Posted August 13, 2011 Posted August 13, 2011 Ahhhhhhh My cam opens my valves by pushing some sticks. Quote
C.A.R. Posted August 13, 2011 Posted August 13, 2011 Ahhhhhhh My cam opens my valves by pushing some sticks. Bogan. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 13, 2011 Moderators Posted August 13, 2011 As it was done around 50 years ago? thankfully we have moved on. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 7, 2011 Author Posted September 7, 2011 I'm a long way off needing wheels for this car but that's not to say I'm not looking or thinking about options continuously. Ive always loved the tough look that black wheels give and I had considered painting wheels that I liked or going for something already black, probably Wat's until I saw biscuitballs post these http://www.xxrwheels.com/sportmax_513.shtml for sale. As soon as I saw them I realised they ticked all the boxes for me....old school, tough and satin black.....giddy up. Picked them up from the freight depot yesterday and am in love with them...just need a car to hang them on and that's good motivation for me to spend more time in the shed. Quote
Riceburner Posted September 8, 2011 Posted September 8, 2011 Like the black too Dave, what's the offset on those? They appear to have a decent amount of dish Quote
KatoKid Posted September 8, 2011 Author Posted September 8, 2011 16 x 8 with 0 offset. Hope they fit. Quote
Sirpent Posted September 8, 2011 Posted September 8, 2011 Aggresive looking, and will look good against a lot of body colors David Quote
Riceburner Posted September 8, 2011 Posted September 8, 2011 16 x 8 with 0 offset. Hope they fit. They'll fit, I run the same size/offset. Had to roll rear guard lips to run 225 semi's but was ok with 215 road tyres Quote
KatoKid Posted September 8, 2011 Author Posted September 8, 2011 Thanks Gareth, Im going to roll front and rear anyway Quote
Cozza Posted September 9, 2011 Posted September 9, 2011 On holiday in Fiji and picked up the latest Performance Import mag for some entertainment, not a bad read and it even had a pic of Stivva wearing his crazy tiger hat sitting on his Z but, it had nothing on this thread. Dave your ingenuity and attention to detail is incredible. Also your write ups are detailed better than a Haynes manual. Reading this thread has been a highlight of my holiday, and the YouTube clip was the climax. Keep up the impressive work Mate, you're an inspiration. Mick Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Posted September 12, 2011 Aw shucks Mick, you're making me blush now! Thanks for the compliments. The shell is back on the rotisserie so I can finish the last few rust repairs that I'm happy to tackle before it goes to the media blasters. Don't know how the rear muffler is hung from the chassis rail at the factory but mine looks more like Swiss cheese due to self tappers pulling chunks from the rail. Cut out the dud bits and welded in some 1.6 plate with captive nuts....much gooder. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Posted September 12, 2011 Next was the reinforcement bracket at the bottom of the radiator support panel where it meets the chassis rail. Just a bit of rust evident but wasn't happy to leave it, took some effort to get off due to its location and I will make a new one once its blasted and I get to see how much good metal Ive got to work with. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Posted September 12, 2011 Been dreading the next job which was the battery tray and firewall area. Its reasonably solid with some bigger holes were I had to drill out the spot welds were the tray was attached but had lots of pin holes and the spot welds that held the skirt to the firewall were completely gone. The firewall itself looked OK on the inside until you had a good close look and there was plenty of small pin holes only covered by the paint so it was time to cut out the rusted firewall and battery tray sections. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Posted September 12, 2011 I had seen some of the tutorials by Peach and Tommasini on the Gasolene show on TV http://www.gasolene.tv/component/option,com_jvideodirect/Itemid,2/v,kUr5jJSAr7Gzr/ and they make it look so easy so I thought Id have a crack at fabricating the replacement section of the battery tray without just resorting to cutting sections out of the inside radius of the 90 degree lip which meets the firewall. This method entails putting a "pucker" in the radius section and then locking the pucker in with hammer strokes and then shrinking the metal which then pulls a curve into the lip. Hard to explain if you haven't seen it done and even harder to put into practice! In the end it took probably half to three quarters of an hour but the end result was pretty good. I then traced out the old section and spent ages getting the new piece to fit in place as there were compound curves which made it really interesting. Finally got it fitting well before tacking and final weld and finish. Quote
Sirpent Posted September 12, 2011 Posted September 12, 2011 Damn David, Talk about a Blitz Krieg of effort and updates ! Always a pleasure to see your work, well done ! Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 12, 2011 Posted September 12, 2011 Top stuff David! I've got the whole Peach and Tommasini DVD collection - Tom Peach is just increadable! What did you make your 'Puckering' tool out of? Quote
mossy Posted September 12, 2011 Posted September 12, 2011 David that work is just awesome, who needs a pro when you can do it just as good yourself. Quote
jamo240 Posted September 12, 2011 Posted September 12, 2011 Hey Dave...nice work...I did a similar job on the battery tray area/firewall a few years back...Datsun sure did a great job of designing in consistent failure modes for us to figure out all these years on. Interesting my car needed exactly the same repairs when it was just 13 years old! I will only use gel cell batteries now too...once that acid gets in, it's hard to get out. Your rear muffler hanger solution is the way to go...mine did exactly the same thing. The std Datsun has a single mount at the rear of the muffler (bracket fixed to the body via 2 spot welds) which fails as reliably as the battery tray area rusts! The fix I employed was to duplicate the muffler rear mount at the front end of the muffler (like you've done). I put that fix into service 15 years ago, and hung a custom made heavy muffler off it, with no failures in the time since the fix. Bottom line: support the muffler front and rear, and you won't fail the mounting system. CHeers mate. Jamo Quote
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