NZeder Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 Forgot to mention this in my last post.............. why ? I hope you keep posting and showing us the progress on this - some of us would be keen to see the car when complete + some might be keen to get a copy of that nose clip also Quote
reverendzed Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 it's OK Nzeder, John said "IN' not 'IS', he was just updating his last post. Rev. Quote
NZeder Posted February 10, 2010 Posted February 10, 2010 it's OK Nzeder, John said "IN' not 'IS', he was just updating his last post. Rev. lol that will teach me to ready a forum when you have done 14 hours at work lol I see it now....doh Quote
Sirpent Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 why ? I hope you keep posting and showing us the progress on this - some of us would be keen to see the car when complete + some might be keen to get a copy of that nose clip also I know the feeling regarding lack of sleep, Ive been balancing work, interstate travel, home life and the "Z" for the past 2 weeks and am read stuff on here that get lost in the ether up stairs half the time. With the nose, well Im tossing up how to go into production with it, but having seen the latest pics, Fraser at ALFA has been in contact and is pretty eager to put it into production. So if you or anyone else is interested, and I mean interested as in putting up your hand as a potential buyer start putting them up. Im having mine made out of Carbon Fiber, but glass wont b a problem once a robust female mold is made. Just some insight regarding what I intend doing with mine, the left hand and right hand ducts are in very versitile positions relative to the headlamp mount panels, so plumbing brake ducts for track wouldnt be a problem, but since mine will be more of a straightline cruiser, I intend building a plenum chamber for the triple 45's and running plumbing from each duct via the left hand and right hand air duct recesses in the rad support to create some positive intake pressure at speed. And dont worry, many more intricate details to come and be posted in the coming weeks. Cheers John Quote
NZeder Posted February 10, 2010 Posted February 10, 2010 If the headlight buckets are like stock G Noses and my headlight covers will work with this unit - I would be down for one even if the shipping will be high to get one to me here in NZ - I like what you have done So yes put my name down Cheers Mike Quote
Sirpent Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 Mike, I cant be 100% sure of the fit of original G nose covers, as I blended the ALFA buckets to the original Z buckets, but I would say it wouldnt be more than a few mm's diff at worst. Even so, with a bit of re-shaping of the completed nose using fiber or bondo, you could probably match them up exactly. Are yours originals with the chrome trim? I would love to get a set for myself, saw some on U.S. Ebay a few months ago for US$600.00 Cheers John Quote
NZeder Posted February 11, 2010 Posted February 11, 2010 Mike, I cant be 100% sure of the fit of original G nose covers, as I blended the ALFA buckets to the original Z buckets, but I would say it wouldnt be more than a few mm's diff at worst. Even so, with a bit of re-shaping of the completed nose using fiber or bondo, you could probably match them up exactly. Are yours originals with the chrome trim? I would love to get a set for myself, saw some on U.S. Ebay a few months ago for US$600.00 Cheers John Yes they are originals and I have 2 new sets and at $600 US they were a good price you should have jumped at that. The set that came with my original G-Nose parts were cracked and missing one of the chrome rings - I send the to a guy in the US in exchange for some other parts as he was going to make copies and sell - but I believe the tooling was too much, I did get a price locally here in NZ to have copies made also and again it was too much for the tooling like $5000 for the setup and then you would need to sell 100 sets to make it worth doing cost around $100 + the tooling cost + a small margin for your effort and upfront $$ and risk. I can't recall the exact cost but $15000 was about what I recall for the first batch here in NZD and that was without the chrome rings - I did talk to a sheet metal place also about replicating the rings - again tooling cost etc. So they both asked how much for new units from Japan - when I told them about $1000 NZD for a single set - they both said get a set and get a spare set and be done with it. So I did but they were a bit cheaper than that as I waited for the $ to yen to be good. Quote
Sirpent Posted February 11, 2010 Author Posted February 11, 2010 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM Think I might look up the seller as they didnt sell back then and see if I can do a deal. Thanks Mike Cheers John Quote
Sirpent Posted February 21, 2010 Author Posted February 21, 2010 Update............. Right Hand Side now rough mocked up ready for a very painful sanding session. Cheers John Quote
FLEXZED Posted February 21, 2010 Posted February 21, 2010 looking good mate your going to have arms like arnie sanding all that back ;D ;D ;D Loui Quote
garvice Posted February 21, 2010 Posted February 21, 2010 What are you using to ensure that the bumper is the same left to right. Just by eye? or are you using a gauge? Quote
Sirpent Posted February 21, 2010 Author Posted February 21, 2010 A bit of both, I did the let hand side first and have been lining the right hand side up to the same dimensions / measurements, but since this has been just a matter of working over already solid sections there isnt much to it. For instance the lower edge of the bottom of the wheel arch is lined up at 30 cm's below the guard mount point, the lip rise is set at 14 cm's from the same point and the bottom point is 108 cm's from the guard door edge, I remembered these when I was setting the right hand side this morning before fibro'ing in the void. The rest is just a matter of working over with a trusty flat piece of marine ply with 80 grit paper from here on in, after a while beaters tend to work shapes by hand with a high degree of accuracy, I think I still have the touch. Cheers John Quote
Sirpent Posted February 22, 2010 Author Posted February 22, 2010 What are you using to ensure that the bumper is the same left to right. Just by eye? or are you using a gauge? Im thinking more like this Sco......LOL Quote
Sirpent Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 Yadda Yadda Yadda, Update as usual, Right hand side almost done now, bottom lip work left, the wheel arch curviture on both sides followed by minor filling and finishing before it comes off the car. Cheers John. P.S. My arms ARE killing me..........LOL Quote
Sirpent Posted March 7, 2010 Author Posted March 7, 2010 Update, getting close now, LH Wheel Arch completed, more or less thats it for the left side apart from the lower lip which I will do once its off the car. The great thing about this nose is that the entire build is being held in place now from the head lamp bucket bolts since I removed all the temp brackets, once I bolt it up to the bar mount points there will be nothing else required to hold it in place. Cheers John Quote
garvice Posted March 7, 2010 Posted March 7, 2010 Have you thought anymore about the indentation of the original bumper on the quarter panel? Could the bumper fill in that hole as an extension/plug? Oh yeah, forgot to mention, looking good! I like the wheel arch flat spot that continues down to the bottom of the bumper, looks perfect Quote
Sirpent Posted March 7, 2010 Author Posted March 7, 2010 Thanks Gravice, Unfortunately the only option ppl will have if they decide they want one of these is to (A) Plug the bumper bar cavity in the bar (B) Use an indicator over it to replace the original guard indicator. Or © extend the nose section and create a false bar extension to hide the indent. In my case I will be welding in a plug so it all looks seemless, but if you wanted to do the same but save the feature for the future then fibro'ing it in would be the best option. The point where the guard meets the bar will use the original mounting holes that are used for the original park lamp panel to bolt this bar to the guard. Now that I have more or less finished this side I will make up some templates up tomorrow to make sure the right hand side matched exactly. Cheers John Quote
Sirpent Posted May 3, 2010 Author Posted May 3, 2010 Just a quick update as I havnt posted in so long. This wont be to everyones taste but this is the only way I could mount the bonnet so as to clear the new nose and provide a good solid no play platform which will allow me to intergrate hydraulic rams for the bonnet. These are pics of the set up at the point where I prep the bonnet to accept a new cross brace that the hinge cradle can mount to. Please leave question until I actually mount the bonnet and show its operation. Cheers john Quote
luvemfast Posted May 3, 2010 Posted May 3, 2010 Will be interesting to see how it ensd up Keep us posted Quote
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