Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Nah, As long as it doesn't rub on anything cant see it being a problem. I dint think the engine mount rubbers would move that far. My RB is about 50mm away and i would have liked it a bit closer. Cheers Paul Quote
luvemfast Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 It was engineered that way, so it should be fine. You want it as far back as possible anyway. Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 it was enginered in vic. I am not sure it would be any different in oz Quote
Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 The car is registered here in SA with that engine in it tho isnt it Mick Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 not yet it isnt. It had an l28 in it when i bought it Quote
Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 So what was enginered in Vic, the car that the engine came from? Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 yes this engine was engineered in Benny old 240z in vic. I bought the complete package from him I think i would have to call doug pots and ask him to check it out for me Quote
Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 You have done brake mods to haven't you. Definitely call Doug, I cant see it being a problem but best to dot your I's and cross your T's, I would maybe hold of doing to much wiring etc to you get a requirement list of what you need to comply to. Cheers Paul Quote
jamo240 Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Hey Mick I am almost finished wiring my RB into my 240Z, so can help you with the wiring if you need it. I also consider 10mm clearance to the firewall is a bit tight for a road car. I aim for 20mm minimum where possible...not saying it WILL touch, but that is very close. Cheers Jamo Quote
BobsYourUncle Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 I can weigh in here - this setup was mod plated in QLD in a 240z (that I now own), not Victoria. I'm not sure, but they might be more lenient up here - it still had stock brakes front and rear when it was mod plated... Quote
Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 As far as i know SA is the toughest state for doing stuff like this. That being said it can be done sometimes it just involves a few burning hoops to jump thru Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 thanx jamo. I will keep you in mind. I have the lome that came from bennys/ Now bobs carso it shouldnt be to hard. Its the wireing of the fuel pumps and relays that is worrying me the most. thanx bob. I think i remeber benny saying something about queensland now Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 As far as i know SA is the toughest state for doing stuff like this. That being said it can be done sometimes it just involves a few burning hoops to jump thru yeh I am not looking forward to it. I will put it off for as long as possible Quote
Ledge Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Don't worry to much about it Mick it can be done. We have fitted a supercharged 1uz Toyota V8 into an MGB with full custom A arms and adapted the Soarer diff and rear arms in as well as brembo brakes and that got fully engineered so fitting an RB into a Z is not going to be a problem. But i would recommend getting Doug up asap to tell you what you have to do or you may need to pull stuff out and redo. Definitely don't lower your spring perches yet either. If you are running Willwoods you may have some grief as they don't have dust seals. You will probably need to do lane change and brake fade tests. Regards Paul Quote
jamo240 Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Hey Mick The fuel pump and ECU wiring is very straight forward...I can help you with that when you're ready. I'll take some pic's of mine to help show you how I did it. Cheers Jamo Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 Don't worry to much about it Mick it can be done. We have fitted a supercharged 1uz Toyota V8 into an MGB with full custom A arms and adapted the Soarer diff and rear arms in as well as brembo brakes and that got fully engineered so fitting an RB into a Z is not going to be a problem. But i would recommend getting Doug up asap to tell you what you have to do or you may need to pull stuff out and redo. Definitely don't lower your spring perches yet either. If you are running Willwoods you may have some grief as they don't have dust seals. You will probably need to do lane change and brake fade tests. Regards Paul I spoke to doug about the willwoods some time ago before i bought them. he said he would be happy to engineer them with out the dust seals because they are designed to not need them. But i will be getting in contact with him again soon to talk more about it. I know i have to change my fuel filler neck to unleaded. hope he can engineer the wheels or i will have to buy a smaller set for regency Quote
zzzzed Posted June 11, 2012 Author Posted June 11, 2012 Hey Mick The fuel pump and ECU wiring is very straight forward...I can help you with that when you're ready. I'll take some pic's of mine to help show you how I did it. Cheers Jamo thanx jamo ill let you know how i go Quote
Corsa224 Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 Hey Mick, Do you still have the old rims from my 260Z for regency inspections or did they get sold with the wagon Quote
benny Posted June 11, 2012 Posted June 11, 2012 pretty sure 14" wont clear the wilwoods. May have to borrow some 16x7/8 Quote
RBZ 260 Posted June 12, 2012 Posted June 12, 2012 Mick, regarding legalities. with mods you have shouldn't be a problem at all. there is few hoops u got to jump through anyway. the list of things that needed to be done when I had my 260z with RB20DET. 1.Stock engine with stock ECU and all Pollution gear present and working as per manufacturer requirement. (NO MODS what so ever) 2. Any custom made brackets need to be checked and approved by engineer. Makes no diff where its previously engineered. your engineer make the call. 3. Braking system equivalent to the car where the engine is used or any other approved by engineer. 4. Unleaded nozzle reduction for fuel filler (i know its stupid as we don't have leaded but it is a requirement. maybe stops retards filling it up with diesel) 5. Than anything and everything on the car has to pass roadworthy. ie demister working, lights, indicators,seatbelts, brakes etc.... now not sure if things have been more stringent since but i doubt it. but check anyway. you will have to go to rego and request an approval for mods prior to attempting mods. so keep it hush that you allready done it. your enquiring and planning to do so. regarding wiring. its not that hard. get the factory engine loom and ecu the rest is easy.fuel pumps etc is also piece of piss. hardest is making the brackets and mounting the suckers. You got my number so if you stuck give me a buzz and I make it a trip there and get the sucker running (need lots of notice btw) . Just make sure you get all the bits first without too much mutilation. looking good. 10mm is enough room to firewall. you want it nice and close. may be pain for some hose replacement down the track but oh well. Quote
zzzzed Posted June 12, 2012 Author Posted June 12, 2012 Thanx for the I do John. That shall help lots. Chris thee they won't fit over the brakes Quote
zzzzed Posted September 9, 2012 Author Posted September 9, 2012 I pu the fuel tank in today and did a quick video blog. Quote
Fairlady Z Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 hurry up get it going . so what else you need to get it moving again. ecu wiring ,what else shouldn't take that long. Quote
zzzzed Posted September 10, 2012 Author Posted September 10, 2012 It's all there. I just need to put it all back in. But first I have to Finnish Chris's 2+2 Quote
lightmaster240z Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 Thank Mick for tomorrow lunch time viewing Quote
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