Ned's Z - 76 2+2

[OdinZ]

1976 260z 2+2 Manual

 

Not a lot to add here, but I figure I start something off here. This will most likely be a slow process, as most things that I am doing are new to me, even some of the simplest tasks for most. I have been around cars & motorsport for a bit, but other than stereo systems, & headlights, I have never really needed to touch anything on a car before. (What have I gotten myself into)

 

To date, I have installed a new speedo cable (removed and reinstalled tacho & speedo), got the choke cable attached on the rear Carbs. And bought new fuse panel cover, choke knob, trip reset knob. Small bits and pieces.

 

This weekend (I finally have a free weekend, shhhh, dont tell the wife) I plan remove the heater valve/c0ck as it is leaking coolant into the foot well and see if I can fix that myself, as these seem to be really hard to find brand new, or cost over $200. I have seen Sirpent rebuilt his, so I will give that a shot. And based on the recommendations of a few people, might as well get my Heater core re-cored at the same time. Probably go to Dandy Radiators.

 

 

 

Any advice on removing this valve? I am hoping I dont have to pull the dash out (I know do not need to pull the dash out to remove the heater core). 

Edited January 24, 2020 by OdinZ

[OdinZ]

So as planned, i was going to attempt to pull the heater valve & core out by myself, luckily for me a certain tall, knowledgeable, well known, and handsome member of the forum had offered his expertise for an afternoon to help me with this. And I tell you what, thank the God of Thunder he did! I most likely would have been bashing my head trying to get these out, then spent a whole day, or two, trying to do this. 

Removing the core & valve without removing the day was attempted, and not so successful, it seemed more time consuming than what it was worth.

The fan blower unit came out, then the dash, condenser unit, valve & heater core.

The heater valve seems to have decent enough sealing, but the diaphragm seals will most likely need replacing, as there is evidence of some leaking from this valve.

The heater core looks quite corroded, so I will look for a new one, or decent enough second hand one, and get that re-cored.

Seeing as the dash is out, I will look at getting this down to the dash doctor to get reskinned, and get LED globes for the dash gauges.

Also, clean up the inside, replace the grommets, and maybe even put some sound deadening down in the front. And sort out the carpet, I have a new set of dark green carpet (came with the car), anyone want to swap for black carpets? HA

Edited December 17, 2017 by OdinZ

[GongZ]

...Seeing as the dash is out, I will look at getting this down to the dash doctor to get reskinned, and get LED globes for the dash gauges...

 

Be aware that if you fit LED dash lighting - that the dimmer control will not work. I hope to convert to LEDs one day too, and I found this solution;

http://www.protizmo.com/Product-Info/AILD-1/

It dims the LEDs using pulse width modulation. If you fit PWM - all the bulbs to be dimmed need to be LED, because incandescent bulbs don't like being 'pulsed'.

 

To choose the correct model you need to know the maximum resistance of the rheostat. I would like to know what your rheostat measures if you get a chance while the dash is out.

[OdinZ]

Be aware that if you fit LED dash lighting - that the dimmer control will not work. I hope to convert to LEDs one day too, and I found this solution;

http://www.protizmo.com/Product-Info/AILD-1/

It dims the LEDs using pulse width modulation. If you fit PWM - all the bulbs to be dimmed need to be LED, because incandescent bulbs don't like being 'pulsed'.

 

To choose the correct model you need to know the maximum resistance of the rheostat. I would like to know what your rheostat measures if you get a chance while the dash is out.

Interesting. I am glad I posted that, because I would have just installed the LEDs, and then probably cracked it because I couldnt dim them. This actually reminds me when the old man first put in LED downlights globes at his house, and we couldnt dim them at the time, but with technology changes, we got new lights & transformers, and were able to dim them again. 

Yeah on advice, I figure I would change all of the globes. I assume they are all on the same circuit.

 

I will try too test it out this week, but will let you know either way. 

[C.A.R.]

The Z dash lights - even with LED BA9 globes - will not be bright enough to require dimming.

 

When I converted a customers Z to LED globes, we bypasses dimmer switch completely and the owner never complained - if anything he said they could be brighter!

[GongZ]

The Z dash lights - even with LED BA9 globes - will not be bright enough to require dimming.

 

When I converted a customers Z to LED globes, we bypasses dimmer switch completely and the owner never complained - if anything he said they could be brighter!

 

There are several different types of BA9 LED globes available - what kind did you use?

[GongZ]

...

Yeah on advice, I figure I would change all of the globes. I assume they are all on the same circuit.

...

 

The instrument illumination globes are on the same circuit and have the dimmer control.

 

The blinker, high beam, brake and charge (260Z) indicators are connected to their relevant circuits and not to the dimmer.

[OdinZ]

There are several different types of BA9 LED globes available - what kind did you use?

Which ones do you suggest. I noticed different options for the whites here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

 

have you done this on your z?

 

 

The instrument illumination globes are on the same circuit and have the dimmer control.

 

The blinker, high beam, brake and charge (260Z) indicators are connected to their relevant circuits and not to the dimmer.

Good to know, also another lot of globes I should also change while the dash is out. Thanks

[GongZ]

Which ones do you suggest. I noticed different options for the whites here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

 

have you done this on your z?

...

 

No, but I have a 260Z clock and a 260Z fuel/volt gauge which I have experimented with using different LEDs.

 

I will drag them out and try to take some photos.

[OdinZ]

Well this is long overdue, but after 12 months of sitting in my garage, and the car not moving (at all!), and the only progress was getting the dash re-skinned by the Dashboard Doctor, and getting my heater core re-cored, and poorly rebuilding the vacuum heater core, it was time to employ the help of a gentle giant just after Christmas last year........well that turned out to be a small waste of time due to the heater core not sitting in the box correctly with the "end tanks" sitting slightly higher. And as I did not have the tools or space for us to modify the metal holder bracket, this project was shelved again for a couple of months due. So we decided that my small single garage was not the place to get this project re-started!

Finally, one Saturday morning in March, with a lot of struggle we loaded the car up on the trailer and got it down to my mates place to get the dash and everything back in, with a view to start getting the car ready for the road.


After a long day, we managed to get the dash, with most things working....

So after getting the dash in, we thought we should try and start car (after 16 months without being started, and the old fuel still in the tank)....a little spray of start ya bastard and.....

 

Edited January 24, 2020 by OdinZ

[OdinZ]

As mentioned above, we had really struggled to load the car onto the trailer, and it also didn't roll easily in the shop, turns out front brake calipers & rear wheel cylinders were seized. Also all of the suspension bushes needed replacing & the tie rod ends, as well as one of the rear wheel bearings.

Of course, what would a Datsun be without some rust, some great work by CAF with the repairs, I am very happy!

Edited May 13, 2019 by OdinZ

[OdinZ]

Next up was the was the vacuum heater valve, I had attempted at rebuilding it, but the o-rings I was given for it were undersized, so Lachlan rebuilt it again, but now I think I have a leak somewhere else when I run the heater, FFS!

[OdinZ]

Next on the menu was to get the gearbox rebuilt, because you know, just some worn syncros

I had also sourced a later 280z donor box for some parts & to use the bell housing for the reverse lockout. 

Lachlan's updates on all of the work he did were great!

I have driven the car a couple of times since I have picked it up, and the gearbox & short shift kit feel great!

 

[OdinZ]

CAF had also sent my centre console off to be restored by a local legend, it looks amazing!!!

[OdinZ]

I have already picked the car up, drove it home on UVP. Of course, it had to rain that day, but atleast I got to wash off any dust left on it and dried it when i got home. 

[OdinZ]

Last couple of things I needed to do before it went for it's road worthy check was install the centre console & change out my shitty 260z steering wheel and replace it with my 240z wheel

and also install the borrow air box from a mate as his had already been modified to sit on round top carbs

[gav240z]

Looking good, but don't throw out your "shitty" 260z steering wheel. You can get them restored and I reckon they look good!

[OdinZ]

1 hour ago, gav240z said:

Looking good, but don't throw out your "shitty" 260z steering wheel. You can get them restored and I reckon they look good!

Thanks Gav! Haha, if I have learnt one thing from you, it's hoard! I mean don't throw things away. I probably won't ever restore it though, as you know I have a comp repro wheel hiding somewhere

[OdinZ]

Bit of a small update after having the Z sit in my garage most of winter and making the odd drive to work, I figured it was time to start getting the car somewhat ready to make the drive to Challenge Bathurst (not racing), so I got the car towed using my road side assist cover down to CAF as I knew it would be there for at least a week, and the Z wasn't running the best the week before. After a compression test, checked the plugs, 3x fouled (& replaced), filing the points & adjusting the points gap, Lachlan got the engine running smoothly again, we as smooth as can be for a tired old motor. Also found the radiator had a puncture, so that was sent off to be repaired & a few leaking welsh plugs replaced. 

As I had be talking about replacing/upgrading my suspension, Lachlan was a bit curious about whether I had the original "wet-legs" still on the car.....



So he had a look while we were waiting for the RH rear wheel bearing to arrive.........and the answer was yes they are! We will come back to these later...

During the week, while Lachlan was waiting for parts, he pulled the driver's side door off to remove the door hinges, pull them apart, machine the new hinge pins & re-fit the door


The door now swings a lot better!

Edited October 25, 2019 by OdinZ

[OdinZ]

So the weekend came along, and as I wanted do some work on the car too, well actually learn a few things, I went down for the day. We pulled the front suspension off and disassembled the wet-legs. 

There was only one wrench for this job!

From the looks, and smell of things, the wet-legs had the original fluid inside of them! Yummy....
   

So we cleaned the tubes up as best we could, and put in some new ATF, and then put the second hand king springs on the fronts.

We had to wait for the new rear springs & RH rear wheel bearing to come in, and they have now been installed.

 

[AndBir]

1 hour ago, OdinZ said:

curious about whether I had the original "wet-legs" still on the car.

I am sure mine still does, may have to look at doing an oil change as well :-)

[lightmaster240z]

Looking better on the ground 

 

[OdinZ]

4 hours ago, AndBir said:

I am sure mine still does, may have to look at doing an oil change as well :-)

I am yet to drive it, but Lachlan says it rides well!

6 minutes ago, lightmaster240z said:

Looking better on the ground 

Ha.....just a little better. Thanks Bruce! 

[scotta]

Where did you source the door hinge pins from. I’ve seen some on eBay but quite expensive. 

[KatoKid]

You can buy pins a bushes from Nissan Aus. They aren't specifically for a Z but are the same dimensions from some other model. Its in my build thread somewhere with part numbers.

Found it!

Edited October 25, 2019 by KatoKid