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Posted (edited)

I'm surprised you went to all that trouble with the ebay rear spoiler. As Gavin has pointed out, the OEM ones had six mounting studs moulded into them and were the proper shape underneath. The inner pair of mounting studs lined up with access holes in the underside of the tailgate, which were put there for that very purpose...

 

Here's a manky one as another example. This is the 'second' type, as fitted to the UK and Euro models and it is made from a very dense pressure-moulded white ABS type material (the 'first'/432-R ribbed type was a classic hand-laid fibreglass roving and resin job) and it has the raised section on the RH side for emblem mounting:

 

HQBJm0.jpg

 

These mounting studs had rubber washers between the stud base and the tailgate skin (missing here):
HoWLOe.jpg

 

Note the raised area for the emblems:
R5h2DE.jpg

 

Note also the 'step' in the bottom surface at both ends where the spoiler hangs over the tailgate. This is where the rubber seal fitted.

Edited by HS30-H
Posted

All good. It’s just the fact these parts are like a Tasmanian orgy in that they have been moulded and copied off that many times no one knows who is who but they are all from the same family. Two headed spoilers you know.

Posted

The one Alan showed is correct as the trailing edge returns further down to cover the rear edge of the hatch.

Posted

I'm surprised you went to all that trouble with the ebay rear spoiler. As Gavin has pointed out, the OEM ones had six mounting studs moulded into them and were the proper shape underneath. The inner pair of mounting studs lined up with access holes in the underside of the tailgate, which were put there for that very purpose...

 

Here's a manky one as another example. This is the 'second' type, as fitted to the UK and Euro models and it is made from a very dense pressure-moulded white ABS type material (the 'first'/432-R ribbed type was a classic hand-laid fibreglass roving and resin job) and it has the raised section on the RH side for emblem mounting:

 

HQBJm0.jpg

 

These mounting studs had rubber washers between the stud base and the tailgate skin (missing here):

HoWLOe.jpg

 

Note the raised area for the emblems:

R5h2DE.jpg

 

Note also the 'step' in the bottom surface at both ends where the spoiler hangs over the tailgate. This is where the rubber seal fitted.

I looked at using those mounting holes, but one of the issues with my particular wing, is that the fibreglass was quite thick and the captive nuts would have prevented the wing to sit flat when I was trying to mount it (if you get my meaning). I also only thought it necessary for mine to have 3 bolts (I had no idea how many the original had) and those holes you point out were too far inward for my liking. I see the original has outer bolts in similar location to where I placed mine as well.

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Posted

That looks much better than the junk I got, although it is interesting that the ends are still open.

Bit of a moot point now, but I was looking at the "BRE" version of this rear wing that they offer.

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

 

But I was looking for a vertical "rib" spoiler (which is the early Z432-R spoiler) and wanted something that was high quality with appropriate mounting points etc..

 

Alternative version here:

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020b06&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

 

However even though they insist they are good quality I have still not ordered 1. I am thinking of going guinea pig and ordering 1, then maybe bringing in a bunch as I'm sure there is demand for a quality unit here.

Posted

I think some did have closed ends.

 

Apologies to Gav, with the wear from the circa 1974 OEM rear spoiler on my cars rear quarter panels it looked like the ends were solid, they are not.

 

post-105219-0-04965400-1519211772_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi Jeff, rather than trying to sand the panels for prep, you should consider getting them bead blasted as this will remove all the rust. The blaster can also epoxy prime them. Bit late now for the Z but something to consider for future panels.

Posted

Hi Jeff, rather than trying to sand the panels for prep, you should consider getting them bead blasted as this will remove all the rust. The blaster can also epoxy prime them. Bit late now for the Z but something to consider for future panels.

I am already looking ahead to that Alfa, I that will be getting dipped.

Posted

I have just painted the internal parts with a zinc based primer at this stage, but I plan on adding some sort of extra protection in there as well. Not sure if I am going to try the spray wax or something like that. I have to do some more research.

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Posted

Now you know why the Guru has a sore back.. porting is back breaking work. It's also why it's expensive, so much time invested.

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Posted

Jeff my reproduction bonnet had the same gap at the rear near the passenger side of windscreen between cowl and inspection flap. I think I'll have to wooden block it and bend it down like you did.

 

Re: opening bonnet and the stay being on the wrong side. If you fit the torsion bars the bonnet will stay up to give you time to go around and put the stay in place. Without the torsion bars the hood will fall back down.

 

Also the torsion bars will change the play in the front hinges(will eliminate some of it), but also may again alter how the bonnet sits... Been there done that..

 

Have fun. I've given up for now and plan to measure up how square mine is, but also will use my white 240z or #51 as a reference since both cars haven't had a front end hit and will serve as best template for measurements.

 

If I get down to see the white car I'll try and take some measurements and share them.

Posted

Re: opening bonnet and the stay being on the wrong side. If you fit the torsion bars the bonnet will stay up to give you time to go around and put the stay in place.

 

It's really simple. Pull the bonnet release handle, walk around the car so that you are no longer in the road, stick your right hand under the bonnet to release the safety catch and raise the bonnet. Reach down, raise and engage the stay. Job done. 

 

It's safer to do that at kerb side. My neighbour insists on unloading their kid(s), the car seat(s) and all the other unbelievably complex kit that seems to be required when moving modern kinds around (wtf IS all that stuff?), on the road side of the car. Doors wide open, arse out in the traffic. Not looking. Crazy.

 

Agreed about the torsion bars. Makes a big difference to adjustment/sit/fit, as well as not actually needing the stay half the time...

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