George Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 Gav, I read somewhere that the first 50 cars got the valve covers. I'll see if I can dig up the source. The bolt in the middle of the license plate assembly was placed there as a hole filler. It did not reach the thread. I've no idea about the Koito stamp but would love to know. I doubt they are fixable and by he time I get them out they will be further damaged. The screws are not playing nice. Looks like Safari Gold is a popular colour. The SU's do have the 4 screws on the bell. I've not tried to confirm their originality just yet. Keen to hear from anyone that knows. Quote
HS30-H Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 I wonder if that 69 stamped on the back of the koito licence plate is a reference to year of manufacture? It's more to do with the year of manufacture of the injection mould that made them. It's actually a compliance code overseen by the Society of Automobile Engineers of Japan, and the '1969' part relates to the year the design was inspected and the compliance was passed. Koito would not have been able to include a manufacturing date code on each individual lens moulding without having a changeable 'pin' or core in the mould. Such a pin or core would leave a witness mark in the moulding, so you'd be able to identify such a function quite easily. In any case it would be an enormous faff to stop the moulds, take them apart and change a pin or core just to give a manufacturing date. That could easily be done with an ink stamp or label. You do see moulded-in dates on other injection moulded, compression moulded and die-cast parts on the cars, but not on the rear lamp lenses. Many year ago, I used to make injection mould tooling.... gav240z 1 Quote
Brabham Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 Sadly George I suspect that first snapped bolt will not be the last... Where I can get to the back of the bolts I hit it with WD-40 and give it 24 hours to soak in before undoing, however some bolts will never co-operate! The tail lights are too far gone, but there are rear slam panels aplenty! Safari Gold looks much better than matt black on a zed too Quote
lightmaster240z Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 Try my old Friend penetrrine? it works better than WD40 Quote
44014 Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 Gav, I read somewhere that the first 50 cars got the valve covers. I'll see if I can dig up the source. The bolt in the middle of the license plate assembly was placed there as a hole filler. It did not reach the thread. I've no idea about the Koito stamp but would love to know. I doubt they are fixable and by he time I get them out they will be further damaged. The screws are not playing nice. Looks like Safari Gold is a popular colour. The SU's do have the 4 screws on the bell. I've not tried to confirm their originality just yet. Keen to hear from anyone that knows. I use to own #160 and it had the 2400 valve cover.... I Believe maygz owns the car now ( along with the wheels that d3c0y sold with it that were not his to sell....) Quote
George Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 Sadly George I suspect that first snapped bolt will not be the last... Where I can get to the back of the bolts I hit it with WD-40 and give it 24 hours to soak in before undoing, however some bolts will never co-operate! The tail lights are too far gone, but there are rear slam panels aplenty! Safari Gold looks much better than matt black on a zed too I expected to have snapped many by now. Let's hope I can get away with only a handful. Am I right in thinking it's the ones attached to the body that will snap more than others? I have been using WD40 for now but not letting them soak for more than a few minutes. I also have some INOX. I agree, Safari Gold is a much better colour but I won't be painting it that, or the matte black. Try my old Friend penetrrine? it works better than WD40 Will check it out, thanks. Quote
d3c0y Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 I use to own #160 and it had the 2400 valve cover.... I Believe maygz owns the car now ( along with the wheels that d3c0y sold with it that were not his to sell....) I know it was only 7 years ago but: Build a bridge... Quote
C.A.R. Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 With the Zinc degrading on the bolts & the captive nut, they have simply rusted themselves in place. No amount of penetrating fluid with get them out. The CORRECT procedure to remove the broken bolts is to use a TIG welder to heat the stud up to extract it. (FWIW if you try & drill it out and use a EZY-Out, it will most likely break off which makes the job 10 times harder!) Quote
George Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 The CORRECT procedure to remove the broken bolts is to use a TIG welder to heat the stud up to extract it. (FWIW if you try & drill it out and use a EZY-Out, it will most likely break off which makes the job 10 times harder!) Thanks Lurch. Can't say I'm looking forward to learning this skill but it will be a useful one nonetheless. Quote
C.A.R. Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 It's VERY easy George - as long as you have a reasonably steady hand Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 2, 2014 Administrators Posted February 2, 2014 Lurch what about a propane torch to heat it up? Is there any reason you use a TIG welder? A youtube video demonstrating might help me visualise what you mean exactly? I've tried removing a broken bolt with a screw extractor set, it didn't work out so well.... Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 2, 2014 Administrators Posted February 2, 2014 Whilst on the subject of broken bolts, is there a recommend tap and die set for working with the Z and it's bolt sizes? Quote
George Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 I watched this video last night Gav. I like his channel, he posts some useful stuff. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 2, 2014 Administrators Posted February 2, 2014 @George - I was reading Wick Humble's book on restoring your Z last night and found that he mentioned Motorsport Auto was reproducing the Center Consoles for various years. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2401 It's just the bare console (no ash tray, coin holder, or choke / trim etc..) but I spent about $100 on materials fixing mine up (granted I have lots of left over stuff also). I guess if mine packs it in, I have this is as a back up? They also have the earlier style shift boot. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08e04/40-2502 I'm gonna ask good old mum if she can sew a new 1 for me with materials from spot light lol... $70 is a little high.. Quote
mossy Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 I was going to get the MSA console too but the shipping was over $300 with a couple of other very small items. Quote
George Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 @George - I was reading Wick Humble's book on restoring your Z last night and found that he mentioned Motorsport Auto was reproducing the Center Consoles for various years. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2401 It's just the bare console (no ash tray, coin holder, or choke / trim etc..) but I spent about $100 on materials fixing mine up (granted I have lots of left over stuff also). I guess if mine packs it in, I have this is as a back up? Gav, if it can be saved I believe it should be. I would rather have an original part with a bit of patina than a new shiny reproduction one. Having said that, there is a limit and if it is dangerous to use or it just looks bad, case in point my rear lights, then there is little choice but to replace it. To be honest I wouldn't hesitate buying one of those consoles to store away. The fibreglass units will only last so long. Mark, group buy! No doubt I'll be buying lots of bits and pieces from the states so I'll be looking to consolidate as much as possible. Quote
C.A.R. Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 I watched this video last night Gav. I like his channel, he posts some useful stuff. BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD! DO NOT do that!!! I could have gotten that broken stud out in 10mins with the Tig. I posted this on another forum: If I ever break a head off a bolt, or sheer a stud off, I simply Tig weld the end of the bolt/stud - getting it HOT & molten on the end - then letting it briefly cool before starting again this time adding filler rod, let cool slightly, then repeat so you build up a lump that is about 10 to 15mm tall. Quench with water till it's totally cool, then using vice grips, clamp onto the lump & start carefully rotating it backwards & forwards till you can fully undo the stud. This works EVERY time & eliminates the chance of breaking a Ezy-out in a drilled hole. It works on Ti, Stainless, Mild steel, Alum, brass, copper... etc My neighbor has a video camera, so I'll shoot some footage tonight showing the procedure. Quote
George Posted February 3, 2014 Author Posted February 3, 2014 My neighbor has a video camera, so I'll shoot some footage tonight showing the procedure. Thumbs up! Thanks. Quote
CroS13 Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 Lurch what about a propane torch to heat it up? Is there any reason you use a TIG welder? A youtube video demonstrating might help me visualise what you mean exactly? propane torch is no good, the flame would heat the panel along with the bolt, you cant target precicely the bolt only, as the flame front would also be hitting the panel, probably be prone to warping it also. Tig allows you to have the most control over where the heat goes, and more of a controlled weld opposed to a mig. when your welding the top of the bolt, your doing 2 things, heating it up and expanding it, hopefully to break/crack the thread/rust, and giving you something to grab onto with a pair of vice grips. If the bolts are tight, but might come out with penetrating fluid, id recommend Rost off, or even better, Rost off ICE, which apparently freezes to -30 degrees? (or so it says on the can). What that does is shrink the bolt, once again trying to crack and break the seized threads. Ive had great success with it in the past. Rudolf. Quote
mossy Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 Mark, group buy! No doubt I'll be buying lots of bits and pieces from the states so I'll be looking to consolidate as much as possible. Let me know George, if I haven't found one by then I'll be interested. Quote
C.A.R. Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 OK... I made this VERY rough, quick video this afternoon. It's not perfect, but I hope it shows the CORRECT way to extract a corroded bolt. (Thank fook I'm not a TV presenter!) Cheers! gav240z 1 Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted February 3, 2014 Moderators Posted February 3, 2014 Seen the master at work removing a heap of broken studs/bolts from my chassis rails and can verify..it works perfectly... Quote
George Posted February 3, 2014 Author Posted February 3, 2014 OK... I made this VERY rough, quick video this afternoon. It's not perfect, but I hope it shows the CORRECT way to extract a corroded bolt. (Thank fook I'm not a TV presenter!) Cheers! Very thorough. Now if only it were that easy for chumps like me. I bet you I'd end up welding the stud to the body! Many thanks. You make it look easy. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 3, 2014 Administrators Posted February 3, 2014 Let me know George, if I haven't found one by then I'll be interested. Just an FYI, this 'could' be what they look like... http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dsommer479/media/IMG_0130_zps7fc65e29.jpg.html http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dsommer479/media/IMG_0132_zpsb1a86ee4.jpg.html http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/dsommer479/media/IMG_0131_zps7bdc1b0c.jpg.html Found it here. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116293-head-light-buckes-spoiler-console-sun-visors-rad-shrouds/ In which case it's missing the coin holder hole and rear screw holes and I'm not sure how you would fix the choke/throttle to the console without modifying it quite a bit.. If it is the MSA reproduction then I'd be a bit disappointed with it to be honest, why bother doing it, if you're not going to do it properly. Surely it's not that much harder to create it properly? It would certainly go some way toward explaining why the originals (in shabby shape) are still getting decent money used. Don't throw anything out is all I'll say! Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 3, 2014 Administrators Posted February 3, 2014 George here is some fresh Safari Gold inspiration . I just love this colour the more I see it on Zeds. When we finish our projects we will have to do a similar photo yes? Quote
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