zeds4ever

That 10* is advanced I think you will find or did you set it at 10* retarded .Jason or Lurch should be able to put you on the right track with this . Mine is set at 10* advanced on a 280ZX Ef with a mild cam , starts / idles / runs fine . Head should be re tensioned after 1000klms . Regards : Alan .

If its the S30 model look up page eight top part of "Electrical" section in Forum Technical section . NZeder posted it for me in 2012 . Regards : Alan .

Thanks for your input Roger. Regards : Alan .

Thanks Kato . Noticed that there is a spare port in the 280ZX Thermostat housing which is blanked off , thinking of drilling blanking plate out & installing a lower rated sender in the port which will be hooked up to the earth set up on the fan . This should allow the motor to warm up without fan functioning until the Sender closes & then activates the fan in turn , as the active will be a solid connection . Wonder if Is this will be OK ?. Regards : Alan .

The thermostat control unit that I have been using in the past has failed . Want to use a different set up , any suggestions other than a switch system would be appreciated . Regards : Alan

Plastic covers for seat mechanisms per chance ? . ( Both sides ). Regards : Alan .

Glad to be of assistance mate , you do a lot of work for the site so it's just a small window of opportunity for me to say thanks . By the way the bike spokes can be used for your retainers , all you have to do is get them threaded up on the opposite end you should be able to get the nuts for them at the stainless steel place in Victoria Rd Drummoyne . You can get thicker spokes from any major bike outlet . Good luck with your efforts . Regards : Alan.

Gav , down thru your way mon 25th Sept , will drop them off for you . Donation to the site . LOL . They have surface rust , but should clean up pretty good . Regards : Alan .

Afraid not Gav , I bought the last reasonable one he had & made my own one up from the different pieces I obtained over the years . You are welcome to the slats I have left mate . Regards : Alan .

Gav , I have several straight slats you can have that might solve your dilemma . Regards : Alan .

Thanks Gav , no hurry mate . Regards : Alan .

Wanted : Datsun emblem that fits into dash recess section on passengers side above the glove box . From memory the dash was from a 2+2 car . Regards : Alan .

It's not a ball bearing that I have encountered when pulling one apart & re-building it . To try & explain it it is more like a BB gun pellet shape which has a smooth exterior # hollowed out on the inside to accept a small pressure spring . From memory there are three of these in total . Try prizing the circlip off with a very small screw driver & a bit of patience Gav . Regards : Alan .

Peter is spot on , I rang Toyota Windsor NSW parts & quoted the parts # to the spare parts guy & asked him to order me a pair only to be told that they were $121.00 per box containing one lamp only , tried to tell him that there were two in a box . He checked with his manager who agreed with him so I didn't get them there , contacted Ryde Toyota spare parts man who also didn't know but checked it out & agreed that there were two per box & charged me $111.00 total , they were delivered that afternoon . Couldn't have asked for better service . Regards : Alan .

G'day Mick , finally caught up with Warren , have got a cntrl knob for you . PM me your postal address & I will post it to you mate . Small donation to site the total cost . Regards : Alan .

Posted today Jon . Regards : Alan .

What I have done to take the starter segment out of the equation is installed a press button starter switch wired directly from a spare active fuse position at the fuse box , then from the starter button to a relay & then wired directly to the starter motor . Apparently it is the starter section of the igntn switch that causes most of the trouble as when the starter switch is being engaged the active jumps across the internal points causing excessive heat in the internals of the switch . Always best to install a relay between starter switch & starter motor .IMO . Regards : Alan .

You don't need to remove the key unit to do what you intend to do . At the back of the igntn key barrel there is a white plastic unit which is secured to the barrel by means of two small phillips head screws , its a bit awkward to get to them but if you use a mirror at the rear of the key barrel it should assist you see them with a strong light . By the way from memory I think they are a sealed unit , but you can test them for continuity with a multimeter or a battery set up . Regards : Alan .

G'day Mick , I'm going up to Warren's AllZ for some parts this thursday , can try & get them for you if he has some spare . Regards : Alan.

Greg , might be able to help you out with some spare slats I have . Can post at your cost with donation to site for fee . Regards : Alan .

PM sent re width of flares please . Regards : Alan .

My heartfelt sympathies mate , after 13yrs of painstaking work on her you've spent too much time to give up .Hang in there . Regards: Alan .

PM sent re ducting pieces . Regards : Alan .

That's exactly what I made up for my dissy when I re built it & it works great might also point out that the ball bearings from the rear axle of a push bike are ideal for the spacer bearings . By the way how much did your replacement V/advance cost . Regards : Alan .

Hi Mick , glad you recvd the info on Vacm unit . Mate is it a 280 ZX ? or do you still have the 260Z points system in use. Check with the mechanic if he removed the vacuum unit from the dissy to see that it leaked , it's best to remove it & place a tube on the tube into the unit & suck on the end of said tube , if the diaphragm is stuffed you will be able to draw air thru it but if no air is forthcoming the unit should be OK from my experience with them . It would also be advisable to remove the top internals of the dissy & check the oscillating plate that is immediately under the fixed mounting plate , as NismoZ states this part is usually a problem being that it is only made of a type of plastic material & over a period of years of heat & cold becomes very brittle & eventually breaks apart so a new vacuum is of no use then !! .For the amount of money you will spend on getting your old dissy fixed I would highly recommend that you invest in a reconditioned 280ZX dissy you will get far better all round performance with less problems . Your water temp switch & relay? have no connection to your dissy so they have no bearing with your issue . Send a PM to Gavin as he may be able to direct you to someone in The states to get a recndnt 280ZX unit for you . Regards : Alan .