KatoKid

Can anyone confirm the wheels on the red 240/60 with the G nose....they look like stock steel hub caps but don't look like 14's? Better still, any contact details of the owner? Not to everyones taste but Ive been toying with the idea of replicating the stock hub caps but to fit a 15 or 16 " wheel. Any ideas? Thanks.

Benny's sugestion of a T56 or a TKO form Mal Wood http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.htm are a good option, still need to find someone who can do an adapter plate...my brother knows someone so will check with him. Flywheel will be tough, options would be to buy a blank for another application and have it machined for you crank, PCD and offsets or else a complete custom...or go a TH400 or 700 auto if ur that way inclined. Not my preference but....

Congrats Mark...this will slow your project down!

John, John, John.....were do I start! First off, I'm not the type to laugh at someone Else's misfortune...seriously that is a bummer. The more modern euro cars are nearly at a point where their interdependency on chassis inputs makes them just about impossible to transplant especially autos. Late 90's BMW's are about the last from Bavaria that can easily be swapped, most after this go to fly by wire and CANBUS with lots of chassis inputs. There is a great thread around from a guy who is an electrical engineer who tried to swap a E46 M3 and SMG into an early E30, he got it going but pretty well admitted defeat after a long time trying to make it work properly....as the DSC inputs were missing and the accelerometer couldn't be retrofitted.... this guy is a gun electrical engineer. You can buy a mechanical throttle conversion kit for these engines but from all reports they are still a poor compromise. Such is technology. While I agree on your strategy of aftermarket ECU and manual conversion you need to decide on a budget and then be prepared to spend a lot more. Buying a Motec, installing and dynoing to get a reasonable tune will be serious bucks. Gearboxes......I'm not using the 420G, decided to go with the ZF 5 speed from the earlier E36 M3 as they are smaller, lighter, and much nicer shifting and as a bonus they are exactly the right length to line up with the stock trans crossmember position, not that fabricating a new crossmember mount in the tunnel was an issue but its just one less thing for the engineers to pick on! Plus my car will be 450 kg lighter than the M3 so it wont stress the box as much. The 420G comes with other problems as well....while they are tough as they are pretty baulky to use and you cant buy parts for them from BMW, if they have synchro problems (which they do) you need to have a contact that can buy parts from Getrag in Germany. And there is more.... the bell housings are not interchangeable, the gearboxes are shimmed to suit each bell housing at the factory and require special tools to be made or bought to work on them...just too hard and they aren't cheap either, bank on at least $2000 as a start point if you can find one. Not being familiar with the Benz product I would be looking for commonality (if there is any) of families of Benz engines to see if there is a manual gearbox that will bolt up to your engine, wouldn't worry too much about torque rating for the box as the lighter weight will ease the stress and then you need to sort flywheel, clutch etc. None of this is impossible but certainly challenging. I know you have the desire and ability and I certainly don't want to put you off but think lots of research will be required to come up with a realistic solution.

Good job Scoota....should have stuck a Chev in it when the owner wasnt looking.

I had a bit to do with Larry Perkins through our Castrol sponsorship years and Larry swore by (as did Ian Tate) using a monograde diesel engine oil as a break in product, high detergency and low additive doses are a good combination for break in.....and its cheap compared to so called branded break in oils which really aren't anything special. Wouldn't recommend leaving any oil in there for more than the minimum required break in period though.

Amazing that someone would do this!!! Is this a pretence for things to come?

Nothing wrong with home made Mossy!

Hey Dimitri....isnt this guy your long lost cousin? Think he needs help convincing his wife to upgrade to R35, given you are his cousin you should have some influenece here!

Mmmmmm...fuel tank envy......me so sad.

Looking for the drivers side corner and top section of the radiator support panel. PO had glued foam to the top of the support panel to direct more air through the radiator....net result rusted support and bonnet. Not very clever. Thanks. David

Im sure McKinney motorsport used to do a JZ mount kit. http://mckinneymotorsports.com/index Cant see it on their web site but call them anyway.

Good job Gareth. Next time have a bit of sympathy for that poor little 1/4" drive ratchet, its not like youre a little guy who needs to prove hwo the boss is!!!!

Thanks Lurchos!

Hi all. My radiator http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-ROW-RADIATOR-SHROUD-1970-1975-DATSUN-240z-260z-/190531642379?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5c92240b#ht_7658wt_1139&clk_rvr_id=240499833289 arrived last week but I need to have the top and bottom hose inlets modified to a slightly larger size to match the BMW water pump and T/Stat outlet/hose sizes. Can anyone recommend a good radiator shop that does mods to aluminium radiators in the Eastern burbs of Melbourne? Thanks David

Happy Birthday Pete!

Im interested in just the CV shafts. Assume they are HR31, can you confirm 100% they are the same as Z31 turbo? David

+1 the Bronze look

John. What Mike says is correct, you have to provide the inputs the system requires otherwise its game over. This is the pin out for the EWS module, as you can some inputs from the body module, central locking and engine speed are not required but the everything else is a must have and cannot be replicated with a dummy signal as they are integral with sending code to and from the components (key, transmit/receive, EWS and ECU).

Unbelievable!

A few weeks.....I wish. I started researching what was required to run the engine with the factory ECU and security system before I even made the decision to buy the engine from the UK as going aftermarket ECU just wasn't going to be cost effective. I couldn't put a figure on how many hours Ive spent researching and pouring over the BMW wiring diagrams to get to a point where I understood how it all worked and was confident I knew what I was doing.

Thanks guys. John, this is my first YouTube effort so let me know if the sound is a problem, works on my wife's laptop fine? You need to hear the terrible sound at the first start! Was fairly sh..ting myself when I first heard it but had a good listen and was reasonably confident it wasn't a bottom end issue. Realised I wasn't going to be able to sleep until I proved it, hence the late night thrash......

Dave, probelm mate....steering wheels on the wrong side. You dont muck around...well done!

Momentous occasion for yours truly..... and I was inspired enough to post my first YouTube video. To say I was relieved when it started straight away is a massive understatement! Bit of pain along the way but lots of win in the end! Watch all about it...

And all this drove the decision I made...... No offence to anyone with multiple carbs but in my mind they are too much of a compromise for a dual purpose street/track car so I looked at doing a 6 x ITB L series or RB 25/30 and the numbers just didn't stack up. By the time you bought all the components and then added incidentals and dyno time it was getting out of control. The M3 engine, trans and everything to make it run will probably owe me $8 - 9k, will reliably make over 300 hp (crank) with an excellent torque curve and your grandmother could drive it to the shops. No doubt there are other current generation engines out there that can produce similar results (VQ35) at an attractive cost. David.