I had the same advice on emissions, only thing they said they would like to see is Cats and even they were a nice to have not a must have.
+1 for the photos!
Wayne G
Yep, looked at lots of alternatives but all had too many compromises.
I had a similar set up like you mentioned from a Hiace van in my Mk I Cortina with BBC power.
I was still short a bit of MC piston travel once I had it bolted in the car but this was fixed by making a lower clutch pedal stop on the firewall. The original is tallish as its job is to stop the clutch pedal from hitting the accelerator rod that runs behind it, I will be using a cable set up so don’t need this. I also had to remove the LH bracket for the accelerator rod as it was in line with where the pressure line comes out of the MC. Once I had done this I had full travel and same pedal ratio as the BMW set up so I’m confident it will work and feel as good as possible.
The Z pedal only delivers a short stroke with standard geometry but is also considerably longer than the BMW pedals so I could lengthen the MC lever to get more stroke and still get the same BMW pedal ratio of 5.7:1. It worked out really well…….. 3 x 5mm plate spacers to mount the MC and some more 5mm plate to make a lever for the pivot shaft and then some juggling to get the geometry correct through the travel of the piston (same principal as rocker arm to valve stem geometry) and I had it all mocked up. The sides of the 240Z pedal box are parallel with the pedal which makes it easier ands everything is square and pushing in the correct line. I used the shouldered bolt used to attach the lever to the MC push rod from the E30 as it was an exact fit for the E36 MC pushrod.
Well all the firewall mounted clutch MC alternatives I looked out just won’t work. I actually only have 60mm clearance between the firewall and the rear of the cylinder head so the longest the MC could be is about 50mm to provide the 10mm clearance the engineers demand and as far as I can tell there is nothing on the market that is the ¾” bore that I need and is that short. The other issue is that the Z pedal delivers only a short 25mm stroke at the MC which isn’t enough
The under dash alternatives were either a bellcrank set up to turn it through 90 or 180 degrees or adapt something like the BMW set up on the side of the pedal box. I’ve done other conversions which were let down by excessive clutch pedal effort and or poor disengagement through lack of actuation so which ever solution I went with I’m determined to get this right and this means replicating the original BMW set up in regards to MC and slave cylinder sizes and stroke. The bellcrank route has potential for fitment, friction and geometry issues which aren’t attractive. I got master and slave cylinders from the wreckers in the UK so I know what I need to replicate.
The E36 pedal box has a very compact plastic MC and an elaborately shaped plastic pedal. The remote reservoir line runs through the firewall and is supplied from the brake master reservoir. The pressure line to the slave runs straight out the end of the MC and also through the firewall. The plastic MC is definitely useable but adapting the plastic pedal to the Z pedal box was not a realistic option and would not have worked asthetically.
I found an earlier E30 pedal box at the wreckers that had a much longer aluminium MC but with a conventional steel pedal with a separate lever to push the MC. The plastic pedal in the E36 is the same plane as the MC hence the fancy shape but in the E30 the MC is offset to allow the pedal to run over the side of the MC so it has the conventional look but needs the offset lever to push the MC. Some rough measurement convinced me that the E36 plastic MC would work with the Z pedal if I added the offset lever to push it with.
As I said, I was determined to get the correct piston stroke and pedal ratio to replicate the BMW set up. As they say pictures are worth a thousand words………
Deffinitly dont use it.
Would be adviseable to check with whoever you are going to get to vac and charge the system as compressor and seals need to be compatible with R134a gas and PAG oils.
Thanks Benny but Im going to do same as John and strip all the aluminium bits off and have them blasted. Need to give it a good clean and paint, new front and rear crank seals etc anyway.
Very exciting John.
Looks like you will have a similar issue as me.....all the aluminium parts on my engine were badly corroded from the salt they use on the roads. Is yours from up north were they get snow?
Make sure you get the tailshaft. Accelerator pedal as I assume its fly by wire? Power steering lines, auto lines, shifter, all mounts, air inlet tubes and airbox. Even stuff you make think you may not use.
Mmmm....interesting.
You gave me a heart attack John when I firsted started reading this. Just had a quick scan through and I'm Ok as in NA form on original 240 weight I can go to 4180cc.