KatoKid

Nice Scoota. Must be good to be able to buy all the repair sections....that last one would be a bastard to make!

What is it with dudes having -747 on their plates? Its a frickin airliner and far from the fastest thing in the air! Am I just old or am I missing something?

Damn...thats nice!

Youre a sick puppy Tim! Most freight companies will do a single pallet as long as nothing is hanging over the sides for less than $200.

Aidann. Jump on this! Jamo knows his stuff and from my dealings with him I would doubt he would misrepresent anything. This is CHEAP horsepower. Freight to Sydney should be max $200.

Thanks for the heads up PeteA. Can you provide details on removal tool? I haven't got or seen then ends from the Falcon but the BMW ends I have are just like a click on garden hose where you just pull back the collar and it releases the fitting...no tool required. Mike have you tried yours?

Thanks Mike. Aeroflow (Rocket Industries) also have the same. David

Also tidied up a few things while waiting for gauges and radiator..... Made a removeable bracket for the battery to sit on. Brazed the high and low pressure power steering hoses together to create a closed loop. Need to do this as the PS pump is run off the single serpentine belt that runs everything else so I need some fluid circulating. PS specialist says will be OK? bit worried about high pressure fluid running straight back to the reservoir without doing any work. Made a strap to mount the factory air filter....not really required but took 10 minutes so why not! Gauges this week...radiator??? still a couple I reckon. Getting anxious now....want to see if it runs OK.

NZeder also sourced the 4 pin plug for the pump and sender wiring on the top of the module...thanks again bro! The fuel lines (pressure and return) that run from the top of the module to the base are a really hard convoluted plastic, they don't run clamps of any kind and I'm guessing are installed with some heat at the manufacturing stage and when they cool they shrink onto the barbed fittings. They are bitch to get off the original pump but I used a heat gun and got it off Ok and was able to reuse with a clamp this time. For the test stand I'm using a 20 litre oil drum as a fuel tank. The plastic fuel module is attached to the the tank with 6 studs or bolts using a steel retaining ring, this cost me $29 from the local Ford stealer, ouch....could have made it but what the hey! Still need a gasket for proper installation so I got some 3mm nitrile (fuel proof) rubber sheet from Purple Pig and 5 minutes with a knife a had really good gasket...cut a hole in the top of the drum and a few self tappers had it screwed down nicely. Made a bracket to hold the drum on my test stand and then connected the EFI fuel hose. There are no barbs on the steel lines on the engine or on the plastic outlets on the fuel module as they both use clip on fittings which I didn't have so I just used good quality clamps so I could test it out. When the pump starts up you can see the hoses flex and move which is a bit scary....after all its pushing nearly 75 psi. The install in the car will be hard line and top quality (not plastic) clip on fittings, last thing I need is high pressure fuel spraying everywhere.

Got some more done during the week..... The M3 engine requires a 5 Bar (73 psi) pump when most EFI systems are only 3 Bar (43 psi). Fortunately this is a common upgrade for XR6 turbo owners who replace their factory pumps with Walbro 255 lph high pressure pumps either GSS341 or GSS340, difference is that the suction side of the 340 is twice the size of the factory or 341 inlet so most go this way...and so did I. As noted before, Mike (NZeder) has done all the research and so big thanks to him. GSS340 pump was $115 off eBay and the BA/BF wagon module (includes standard pump) was $99.00 also off eBay. Installing the 340 pump was a bit of a pain as the original pump is held in place by plastic clips that are part of the filter on the base of the pump and the filter for the 340 doesn't have these clips on the side so I had to make a bracket out of 1mm sheet and attach with a screw each side of the swirl pot above where the standard filter clips in. No biggie but chewed an hour or so to get it right. I reckon all the Ford boys don't go to this trouble and just let the pump and filter sit on the bottom of the swirl pot. The 340 filter has a plastic frame moulded into it and needed to be cut in the right places so it could be bent to fit inside the swirl pot. The black circle in the base of the swirl pot is a foot valve so the swirl pot is always full of fuel, I tested the set up when I had finished and even with only 40 - 50mm deep fuel in the drum the swirl pot was overflowing with fuel being returned from the FPR.

The GM and Ford modules are pretty well the same except the Ford mounts with studs rather than the retainer ring of the GM....I reckon this makes the Ford option more attractive. The wagon module also has the fuel sender incorporated so its easy to use an aftermarket fuel gauge.

younggi. Have a look at what NZeder has done doing , I reckon its FAB and have gone the same way. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=3490.105 Brand new BF/BF Falcon modules $99 !!! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-WAGON-6CYL-4-0L-FUEL-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-/190492873154?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5a4291c2 In tank solution, built in swirl pot, with sender, quiet and can upgared top better pump easily.

Come on all you RB guys.......normally money cant buy these things anymore!

Walbro pump has arrived, just need to adapt it to the BA/BF wagon fuel module (thanks Mike!), also the female plug for the fuel module (thanks again Mike!) Gauges left the US yesterday. Radiator.....mmm will be the hold up, I reckon a couple of weeks yet. Picked up the standard VY SS Commondore exhaust from my brother on the weekend (thanks bro) and all I had to do was cut off the first few inches off where the engine pipes would normally join the cats and then weld to the first two feet of the BMW front section that I received with the engines from the UK. Very easy! Should be nice and quiet so I can get a good listen to the engine Vanos system.

Thanks Dimitri, let me know!

I need to get some new doors as mine are badly rusted, new skins don't interest me so I'm looking at some "rust free" from the US. Freight will be a killer but I think its the only option. Before I go ahead I need to confirm if there are any differences in doors and lock/latch mechanisms on 240's? Mine is a 4/71 and OP's doors are from a 71 or 72? Thanks.

Excellent Gareth....Will look the goods!

Wiring is done......its a bit rudimentary but will suffice for the purpose, the in car installation will be much tidier. I could start it now if I had all the other bits I need! Should have planned ahead better as I'm still waiting on: Speedhut gauges Walbro GSS340 pump Radiator - same as the one FuFu has just got. My brother has donated his old exhaust off his SS Commondore to be used on the test stand, will cut and shut to my needs. Need to build a fuel tank (20 litre oil drum), plumb the fuel feed and return hoses. Install radiator, fans and hoses. Should see it ready to run. Any wonder BMW's are so heavy, the left over body harness would weigh easily 20kg. Waiting , waiting!

Happy Birthday Lurchos. My daughter asked my why I call you Lurch so I showed her the Addams family intro clip and she said "I see"! Have greta day. Suggest Jane cooks you youre favourite dinner for dishing out that tough love!

Nice Jamo!

Congrats Dimitri!

Geeze Hayden...talk about deja vu. Thought I was looking at my car for the first dozen or so shots, then I started to feel better! Great work....what was the timeframe to get to this point?

Hi mate! Welcome abaoard, they are a great bunch with the exception of a few! What part of the US are you from? Im looking for a couple of rust free early 240 doors, wont be cheap to freight but Im prepared to pay for the right doors. Thanks.

Mike. Agree EWS is a PITA but is worth persevering with to enable the use of the factory ECU. I spoke with Autronic and others and they all said that after market ECU's will produce good peak HP but will never replicate the excellent factory driveability. The dual Vanos is infinitely variable and the mapping time for this alone would take days to get half right and then every time you make a change there you need to revisit fuel and ign mapping as well as they are all interdependent. Too much dyno time and cost (plus the ECU purchase) for something that will not be as good as factory. The factory ECU can be reflashed for higher top end HP but I'm told this compromises mid range....all compromises.

Great stuff guys....never ceases to amaze me how coherent and willing to help out this group is. Would have loved to be there but burnt all my Brownie points2 weeks ago on a 4 day ride in the high country! Well done to all who contributed.