Jump to content

KatoKid

Donating Members
  • Posts

    2,236
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    137

Everything posted by KatoKid

  1. KatoKid

    Drive day

    Shouldn't be a problem for you Gordo, you could do both.....I heard you ride as fast as an old MG can be driven!
  2. Hi Mossy. Will come and check them out on the weekend if thats OK with you. David
  3. ....watching
  4. Scoota, not sure what you're meaning but have a look at the last page on my thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6400.375.html Ive left the plate on and just redrilled the holes so the column is all the way to one side. Assume you want to move it the opposite direction but either way will work.
  5. Is this the one G man? http://www.rhdjapan.com/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-muffler-s30-hs30-63314
  6. +1 ....I need same type of rear muffler but twin 57mm (2.25 inch) in and twin 57mm (2.25 inch) out as well as a single twin 57mm (2.25 inch) in and twin 57mm (2.25 inch) out resonator or 2 x seperate single 57mm (2.25 inch) in and out. All in stainless.
  7. Please explain......you going all Bosozoku on us?
  8. Too true MickieB, I was once in a role that got me very close to some franchises and I really detested what I saw. How they were taught to gouge everyone that came in the door, there was never any repeat business as they burnt eveyone on the first visit.
  9. Mine will be around $1,200. Each engineer is different, interprets the rules differently and will either make or break a conversion based on their own opinion. If you're tight for money then the decision is pretty well made for you........
  10. Beat me to it Scoota!
  11. singhy, have you actually read the NCOP VSB14 document or did someone just tell you that you can only have 20% more power? Here's a link to the engine section http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf Clause 1.2 only states that engines with greater than 20% more power need to be certified, it doesn't say you cant do it. I had a meeting with my engineer two weeks ago (Vic has been operating under VSB14 for nearly a year now) and he has no issues with me fitting an engine that is double the power of the original. 1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA CODES The following is a summary of modifications that may be performed under Section LA:  Fitting engines greater than 120% of original power and/or engine mass;  Fitting performance engines;  Fitting engines from non original equipment sources;  Installing a supercharger or turbocharger; and  Modifying the engine and engine components that results in an increase in engine power of more than 20% and/or affects exhaust emissions. Clause 2.13 is the key clause as this defines maximum engine capacity using a formula based on weight.
  12. peter t is a multiskilled legend, as proven by his build. Well done for putting your hand up pete, that's the viczcar way!
  13. Thanks Nic. Had a good chat with Mossy at the BBQ today and Im pretty set on a Giant XTC 29er 2 and Mossy might be able to hook me up through a mate. Cheers
  14. 6:00 pm and it just started pissing down....dogged a bullet as it was a perfect day at Gordo's....thanks for hosting once again mate! It really is a great venue with an ideal layout. Good company and great cars too. David
  15. Unfortunately the Brakes Plus / Midas style franchised workshops have notorious reputations for inflating bills and finding all sorts of work that doesn't need to be done. Pursue these pricks and make sure the car is delivered back to you with all repairs effected and running correctly. Best to try and a more reputable operator for future work or even pay someone local on this forum to help you do it yourself. Plenty of people on here can tell you where to source parts and how much to pay for them and then suggest how to go about it. I feel for you and good luck with getting it sorted.
  16. Wow! Thats a funky flexplate. Trust the krauts to make it complicated.
  17. Geeze Tom, your quick! A mate sent me the link to this story earlier today. I could say only in America but that wouldn't be fair because it could happen here (not a Z owner of course).
  18. Bienvenue à Henri. Temps est un atout précieux, utiliser à bon escient et vous réussirez. David
  19. Thanks guys for the advice. Gordo, will talk to you at the BBQ on Saturday. Mossy, you going to the BBQ? Would be good to talk bikes as well as cars!
  20. Thanks for the suggestion Dimitri. Undoing each connection on the engine just isn't an option for me.....there are too many and too hard to get to. I will only have the main ECU plug and one other which I will need to unplug and then pull them through the firewall so the whole engine harness will stay on the engine when I have to remove it.
  21. Thanks Pete. I saw those grommets in earlier model Commodores, they look to be about 30 -40mm thick and tapper to a smaller OD outside? Good to see that's where you ran yours through the tunnel as that was my plan as well, it will run nicely under the heater box/fan up to the ECU mounted vertically on the firewall between the fan and the kick panel.
  22. Thanks Benny. I considered something like the bluewire plug but seriously I have probably about 100 wires to go through as I have relays and diagnostic ports that I'm going to bring inside as well.
  23. The plug for my main engine wiring harness to the ECU is pretty big, around 150mm long and 50mm wide and I need to bring this through the firewall so I can mount the ECU in the cabin. Problem is that the plug is too big to push through a rubber grommet that will still seal on the wiring harness that will only be around 25mm in diameter. Ive been to pick- a- part and looked at all sorts of grommets but nothing fits the bill. Normally you would de-pin the plug, push the harness through the grommet then re-pin the plug but I don't want to do this as I have 88 pins which are very small and I don't want to damage the plug or pins in the process. I have found this on the internet http://www.sealsit.com/grommet_split.asp which would do the job but its $30 plus freight from the US. The alternative would be to use a grommet of the right size (50mm OD x 25mm ID), split it on one side and then glue it together with something after putting it over the harness. Not sure how well this would work and what sort of adhesive to use? Any suggestions appreciated. Also where to buy grommets rather than spending hours rooting through smashed cars? Cheers. David
  24. Custom nuts at Hollinger.....$$$$
  25. or take it to an engine shop and have them hot tank it. Proly $100.
×
×
  • Create New...