KatoKid

Bit!!!!!! Thanks Lurchos

Great and read and great outcome, you must be wrapped!!!! Can I ask what sort of $ premium from Shannons for the both the build stage and now?

Agree, but not for me.....pre 75 so no cannister or emissions to comply with! ....and dont need to worry about it leaning out....one of the benefits of having a NA engine!

What they dont know wont hurt them!

Bloody good idea I reckon. Assume this is for cars with a charcol canister and that this is the source of fumes that get vented to the canister. Only question would be what would the engineers expect in regards to venting?

Nice work Lurchos. Dogleg looks pretty good compared to most!

Would love to catch up Mike but going camping with the family that weekend.

......what Lurch said. Most likely the MC is bypassing due to picking up rust a crud during the long strokes of the bleed process. Either kit the MC if it looks alright or new one if not.

You like $2,000 challenge try 13's for $1,300 http://performanceforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?69-13s-for-1300

Hi all. Looks like I'm going to build my exhaust from scratch in stainless so Ive been looking at TIG welders. Like everything else there is so much choice and I know nothing about TIG so I'm looking for recommendations on which one to buy. Also keen to hear comments on foot control vs hand control. Will want to do alloy as well so will need to be AC/DC. Ive already got a good MIG so don't need MIG/TIG option. Cheers. David.

Dibbs on the battery tray if Scoota doesnt take it.

Hi Jamie. Being chassis #803 your car would have come with a flanged output shaft 71A gearbox and like most has probably been upgraded to a later 71B with a splined output shaft. The shifter on the 71B gearbox is slightly further forward hence the non factory look. While I love ZG flares and the wide stance I would think twice about cutting up an early 240 unless the guards are really shot. You can still fit 8" rims with good 225 tyres which really look good. Your car looks really clean and dare I say original IMHO adding ZG's will devalue it.

I like where this is going!

Understand.....but would be a killer sleeper with the Pintara badges on it!

Seriously Pete....needs more LS1

Wow $1,500 is a ripper price. You wouldnt bother with single plate for that price.

Dont get too excited guys....I doubt this will run in the car until after it comes back from the panel shop in final colour. Im just building it up to near driveable so I can do all the brackets and fabrication work that will need to be done to ensure no cutting, grinding, drilling or welding after it comes back in colour.

Mike, is that the track south of Auckland as you head for Hamilton? Last turn - start finish - first turn has a bit of Brands Hatch about it. Nice.

I cut up some 3mm alloy sheet to make a mounting board for the ECU, EWS bits and relays. Used the fan mounting points on the RHS and there is a single 5mm captive nut on the firewall (no idea what its used for) for the other side. Drilled and tapped two holes to mount the ECU and cut the original plastic relay mounts from the M3 fuse box and riveted that to the plate. The relays now just clip on. Its tight for space and the fuse box and the speed simulator will need to be mounted on the side kick panel. Still need to make all the connections from the ignition switch and the EWS box to the 12 pin connector but that can wait.

Would love to Benny but that would mean de-pining the whole lot so not going to happen. I ended up using cloth Tesa tape to bundle the loom up, its a bit lumpy and bumpy because there are so many grouped power and earth connections that come together in different places. The best solution would be to completely remake the whole harness but I'm not confident enough to do this and the reality is that it will mostly be hidden by the airbox so it can stay as is. I will still run the +ve and -ve cables in something like Pete suggested. I'm rapped with how well the grommet in the tunnel works. Still need to tape a bit further but otherwise all good. In the M3 The engine harness is connected to the body harness through a very large plug called the X20 connector. This connector is way to big to try and bring in through the hole in the tunnel so Ive replaced this with a generic 12 pin plug as I only need to bring 10 wires inside the cabin.

Thanks Brad, good to know. The pics on the MSA site make the hoses like quite different.

Thanks Benny. Can you check with your mate and confirm the tap?

Going to dredge this subject up again....NLA Nissan and no one (I can find) does aftermarket RHD versions. Seems the yanks (MSA) have hoses available but from the pics they are different to ours, they also have Taps but I cant tell if they are the same as ours. Can anyone provide alternatives for hoses and taps apart from the good old fall back of trying to match something up at Repco/Bursons? Thanks.

Oooooohhhh yeeaaaahh!

Lots of haters....but I love it.......