KatoKid

http://www.extrudabody.com/servlet/the-257/Kit-cln--Datsun-L6-for/Detail These...don't know if they are any good but reasonably priced. Still need ECU, ignition, fuel system plus dyno time = $$$$$$

Buy these, 50mm ...bit over $300 probably by the time they are landed. If they dont work out little skin lost from nose and resell anyway. S54 stuff out of the US is very cheap now. Plenty of work to be done to mate to a two valve non crossflow head vs 4 valve crossflow but what the hey....good test of your willingness to learn http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-04-05-06-E46-BMW-M3-Individual-Throttle-Bodies-Body-ITBs-/271325736868

http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1458

Engine shop like Orgers??? I can get there tomorrow if you need.

Cant say if the booster is different between the two but I would doubt it. You say the brakes are "savage" I'm assuming they have little feel and apply very hard straight away? If so, given its had an auto to manual conversion I would suggest the rubber reaction disc has fallen out of the booster, it can happen very easily when doing things like removing pedal boxes. Pull the booster out and give it a shake, if it has fallen out you will be able to hear it rolling around inside the booster.

Looking good Adam!

Look after it Justin or you will make Tim cry!

Broken bones!!! What have you been doing?

Hi Mick. My brother has bought parts from these guys: http://www.360gearboxesdiffs.com.au/ and said they were pretty good to deal with. Cant vouch for their quality or prices but a good place to start. You could also try http://www.transdiff.com.au/Home.aspx Both are only a few minutes from my place and I would be happy to act as an agent for you and look over any work they do, also help with delivery if you need. These aren't recommendations so suggest you search the interwebs whatever you do I'm happy to help where I can. David

..and that is how it happens

Hey Joe... For you I think the electric system would be best, no need to worry about pumps, lines and fabrication. The WRX "system" or any other traditional engine driven hydraulic steering is something you would need to source as individual components from the wreckers and there is a fair bit of fabrication and thus time and $$$ involved. I would check with ez that there are no issues with RHD vs LHD as well.

Also kinda like these.....fugly but collectable already

You need one of these Scoota http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=92

Yay!!! another 920 car.....well done Vaughn. Keep the photos coming!

Hi Rudolf. The water pipe.....what material is it and how did you do the bends? Thanks David

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7174.0.html If you do, its not a straight forward swap. Requires a bit of fabrication, not too hard but takes some time. A few guys have done the WRX swap and it works very well.

On an autobahn where everyone knows what is expected, yes. On some toll way in Brazil that doesnt seem to have any rules or regulations.....no way!

Please explain!

Thanks Peter, good suggestion. Im not happy with way it looks......the more I look at it the more Im sure I will change it. That is great motivation!

Reality is that Ive always had one of these in mind but cost and fitment will present challenges! May end up going with an S bend tube that picks up air from under the radiator using a brake duct.

Thanks everyone for the compliments, certainly helps keep the motivation up. There was no way the factory BMW air filter assembly was going to fit so I had to find an alternative. Ended up with the only K&N filter in their range that had the required 92mm ID to match my MAF. Its pretty fugly and far from what I envisaged but it works and I'm constrained by the oil cooler lines that run underneath. There's a bracket which you cant see that supports the MAF and filter coming off the engine mount below. I thought of running a tube through the radiator support panel and having the filter out front in a set up like the standard 280 arrangement but the hole in the radiator support is way too small and I didn't want to cut it up.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67292655-1973-Datsun-240Z-JDM-Not-DTM

Was only joking about driving your car Mossy....wouldn't do that to you. Car must be there though, let me know if you need a hand (hahaha) to do anything to get it there......no pressure, much!

I drive to your place..... I drive you and your Z to BBQ... Reverse to get home. FIXED!

Hi Gareth. I just use a MIG but have experimented a lot to get the right settings. You need to use a higher power setting than you would expect so that you get good penetration and a weld that is relatively flat, too low power and the weld just sits on top, looks hideous and you need to do a lot of grinding....but this means you can blow through the weld very easily unless there is very little to no gap in the butt join, wire feed needs to be backed off too so you aren't supplying too much filler. Its all a balancing act and requires a lot of trial fitting to get the gaps to a minimum on the butt join before welding....... and you need to manage the heat and warping. Yep, shifter is rubber bonded. You can buy a bizillion different aftermarket shifters for BMW's for exactly that reason. Ive got the lever out of the Z3 which is the shortest throw factory setup, I will leave this standard for now and once its driving will make a call on which way to go but suggest I will probably do the same as yours. How did you "de-bond" yours without destroying it? David