KatoKid

Ha! Long way off paint yet. Struts cleaned, blasted and painted ready to go to MCA next week.

Thanks Gav for clarifying and Gong for the links. Me thinks I will try and paint around them.

Ok......wrong trim.......I'm talking about the trim that goes around the garnish panel (the 3 piece panel that goes right across the back of the car) not the tail light itself

Nah, 240's are stainless steel

Has anyone removed this so the rear tail light garnish can be prepped and painted properly? I've had a bit of a go but its not budging and don't want to damage it so looking for tips on how to get it off. Cheers. David

Well done Adam, I know nothing about these but they sure are cool. Assume you will be active on some Porschefile forum so please, please , please let us know so we can follow along!

SOMBODY BUY THIS.......and do this http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/datsun-411-mx5/

Hi George. The piston may be useable if the pitted area is outside of where the seal works. Measure where the groove for the seal is in the cylinder bore and then push the piston all the way in and confirm that the pitting doesn't go past the seal location when fully depressed.

Hi Jeff. Yep, got a spare pair of fronts. Guy selling them told me they were 260 struts....turns out they were 240 struts Just have to media blast them and they are off to MCA, probably next week.

With you Gav!

That looks very serious.....stuff the like button where is the salivation button!

Thanks guys for the kind words. R33 GTS-T front brake conversion is sorted http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13582-r33-gts-t-calipers-onto-a-240/ I really wanted to persevere with this conversion for a few reasons: The engineers like to see matching brakes from the donor car, I'm using R33 booster and MC as well. Will probably be using R31 on the back though. I like the NISSAN logo cast into the calipers...keeping it in the family. They are big arsed MOFO calipers and they are dirt cheap Bit of a trial but well worth it in my opinion as the calipers and discs are cheap ($200 all up), some dollars required at an engineering shop (another $300) and some labor of your own to make the dog bones so $500 should get you a pretty decent brake set up. Note: requires 240 hubs, wont work with 260 hubs unless you use a different height disc. Fits my 16 x 8 +0 XXR's and I reckon will fit over 15's as well, will check this out and report back.

Dog bones were pretty straight forward. 12mm x 65mm flat bar and they had to be spaced 7mm out to center the caliper on the disc. Obvious care had to be taken with patterns and being sure that holes were drilled exactly spot on but other than taking time it was pretty easy. The top caliper bolt is very close the strut tube (50mm 240 strut) and definitely wont clear the MCA struts that Im intending to use as they are 59mm diameter but a slightly countersunk allenhead bolt will do the job. Pretty happy with the outcome, just hope the engineer feels the same!

Been a while but I've finished this........haven't driven it obviously but happy with the way it came out and expect it to work well with R33 booster and master cylinder that I'm using. Found some second hand R33 discs for $60.00, they were in good nick and may use them yet but may also buy the you bewdy DBA ones. Like most brake conversions I had to have a shop bore the center of the disc and also re-drill for 4 holes to mount to the 240 hub.....two weeks waiting for that. Note: when you re-drill 4 holes over a 5 hole pattern you will always end up with one of the 4 pattern holes overlapping a 5th hole but they are not the same PCD so you can either elongate the overlapped hole or machine a bigger hole and press in a plug and re-drill, which is what the shop recommended. Got the disc mounted up to the hub and on the spindle and then slid the caliper over the disc and tried to position it where it needs to go......uh oh.....problem. The upper ear of the caliper mount cast into the Z spindle was interfering with the caliper.........I was determined to make this conversion work so the only alternative was to drill and tap a new upper caliper mounting hole and cut off the interfering SOB bit......but (its never easy) the casting just inboard of the original caliper mounting pad is ever so slightly lower than the original mounting pad so I had no choice but to have the shop mill about 0.7mm off the original upper mounting pad and mill further inboard to create a new mounting pad....which meant the lower mounting pad also need to have the same 0.7mm taken off it to keep the caliper aligned parallel with the disc....phew! Once the milling was done I drilled and tapped new holes 20 mm inboard and then cut off the old ears. Fitted the caliper up and all good....just need to make dog bones now!

Maybe I'm being picky.....but who does a "bare metal respray" and paints the nuts a washers on the front strut tops?

Tough as.......This is the sort of build I envisaged doing originally......how things change!

Play it safe and wait until you can measure in the car. Find who you want to do the job and then ask them what measurements they want......every driveshaft shop is different.

Gold!

Carless but there to perv

Thanks John sms sent

Thanks John. Please let me know

Panel shop isn't happy with the bar I supplied for fit up. Doesn't have to be pristine as long as its reasonably straight and OK to be reconditioned. Thanks. David

Would bang!

Starting the laborious task of reassembling everything for the final time and making sure I don't cut any corners in regards to prepping, cleaning and painting etc. WRX rack installed for the final time.....I hope!

Definitely not from a rattle can Gav......its a two part. Not too expensive though, was $80 for 1 litre of paint, thinners and activator: http://www.valsparindustrialmix.com/TDS/au/TDSIMU.TB543.pdf Yes, finish is excellent. Perfect satin and tough as.