dat2kman

forged rods and slugs, and you can with a degree of safeness get that heavy crank down to approx 15kgs knife-edgeing and balancing the whole lot, while at it spend the money on a proper STEEL machined flywheel, and use decent ARP main cap studs, not the 30 year old overstrssed bolts in it now. I have driven one of the 3.3's it is a real truck of a thing, but pulls like a dormitory of schoolboys at a holiday camp. Raced John McKeons 3.1, same thing. ( BTW it is still for sale, posted on the f/s section)

Where bouts you is? I is Brisbane and have a pair of Toymota 4 pot calipers for sale have to check thier model designation, what o the numbers cast into them mean? "s12+8"

pzg302, dunno how Dave Pardey managed to fit a later B typpe 260 ext housing ( two piece box) to a B type 3 piece, unless some serous welding, and some even more serious alignment was done, and we both know DP isnt that good a welder!! 1600Dave, I have looked at the flange back end, and see no reason why you cannot run a slip yoke. The flange was done for Datsuns (early) so they could run a real complicated slip joint in the tailshaft on the live axle cars, The Dato 2000's run these, and the Fury 120Y runs one as well, it has a two piece tailshaft, with a short fixed first part to a bearing in a carrier that bolts to the fllor, then goes to a longer two pice slip joint shaft to the H190 5 link rear, odd and complicated, but it worked, biggest issue I suppose was ground clearance and not damaging a long one pice tailshaft with rocks etc. Factory 240RS had same setup, so i suppose it was copied whenthey built the Y The 71A box DOES have the nice ratios but, ( same as early 260Z B type box) Consider it, otherwise, a close ratio gearset from Kameari Japan will help heaps, inside a stock B box Yep had a bit of fun at EC on May1/2, in 20 Lap Group Sa/Sb enduro, I got into the lead, but went silly around Corporate hill and ran real wide, went rallycrossing!, recovered to finish third. The Sunday stuff was fun, scored a 5th and a 4th in the group Sc races ( 6 lap and a 15 lap). Brian Potts's Z does not look too good at all, very heavy front then drivers side hit, it'll buff out though! next time must catch up! You gonna come to Bathurst in 2011?

yep 44's ( my typo) and 38's in this one 3 angle cut, and later stellite steel seats so ok for unleaded. I just run avgas in the race engines it gives me a cleaner slower burn rate, more consistent, and the bit of lead helps soften impact of valve on seat. my current P90 with 4mm shaved is running 47/38 valves, breathes real nice.

looks like its gone, that was quick! Just confirming transport from a Brisb depot to a Melb depot. On a CHEP Pallet. Strapped wrapped and hogtied! it will prob be going in a couple of weeks or so, If anyone else wants something from Bris to Melb, and can arrange it between Shan and me, and is prepared to offer Shan a little something for transport costs, and can get whatever to me, maybe some joy and happiness all round!!

NOW SOLD Ex 280 Z Group S race bare head, no camshaft, cc'd and matched at 38.5 cc's. Rather heavy porting, so heavy that No 3 inlet has a tiny pinhole so it will require a weld up, hole cant be seen by eye! Ran 42/38mm valves. Was producing approx 270hp at flywheel at 7200 with stock stroke L28 crank and 87mm slugs in bottom end Sell price $150 Ph 0403 071 294

E88 head, no camshaft, ported ( mild) and shaved approx 20 thou, chambers cc'd / matched at 40.9cc. 42/38mm valves ( stock) Requires a clean up and ready to go Ex group S prod sports race car ( early 240Z) located The Gap Brisbane Price at $300 Ph 0403 071 294

Selling as above, located The Gap Brisbane, complete fan to clutch L28, flattops, 72 deg cam, f54 block stock bore, honed and new rings, and new bearings fitted, head shaved, mildly ported, cc'd. Done less than 6000 kms. Dyno sheets from when fresh in my road 260 (NOZ-260 -der -get it, no "260") 90kw/241n/m/499lb motive force, at the wheels. Not mindblowing but still pretty decent! Strong lowdown torquey unit ( pic from Qld raceway track day)) Has complete engine loom and ecu, mounts, came out of a 260 so ready to drop in to yours. $1200 firm . Engine crane avail to load into your trailer Can assist with engine drop in, to your rolling shell, at my place, but you do the work! ph 0403 071 294

Hmm, WTF am I doing wrong! I cant work out how to even look at the thing I sent in. I'm a bloody numpty fargen compooter of mine refuses to co-operate. It's gonna be hammers and screwdrivers soon!

Try this, dump the gear oil, put in a mix of 1/3rd ATF auto trans fluid, with2/3rds 80/90 weight gear oil, run it for a couple of months, then dump it, then run straight gear oil. I like for road use Penrite 85/90, for race use, Redline light shockproof. The ATF/90 wiegt mix will deglaze the rings, and help shifting, and help bearings bed in and cut any glazing/burning. I had a fifth gear that screamed/howled, did this, and it bedded in, all good now. FWIW

Shaun, I got a few around, some with close ratio sets for that reduced rpm drop between gears! Some stockos too. if the ones you have lined up fall through ring me on 0403071294 I am off the Eastern Ck NSW next Wed, till Tuesday, historic meeting with the Sports 2000 Jason

Greg, add in there a P76 manifold, this is the twin butterfly ( one of them) I have had most of these run up on an airflow bench looking for problems ( found plenty) and then had them modified ( to reduce/eliminate problems) the only way to do it properly is to slice the manifold horizontally, then work on each runner and the inside of the log, them weld it all back up. Rules for my class racing say "internal is free, external must remain same dimension." I have charts listing the befores and afters of the airflow bench testing, I used Jim M's drag racing guy, he does the flow work for the 888 V8 team! Not cheap either Greenup was going down this path but wasn't too keen on the cost, 'sides he is just ramming air in, and his thing is totally different! I could sell you my p72 "after" manifold, to save a lot of hassle, lets talk! The N47 (pzg302) would seem to be the best of the lot, as a basis start, it then needs a lot of deep internal work, that even a longneck die grindar cannot get to. I would like to get one for myself to go to work on. Anyone got one lying around??? ( N47 inlet manifold that is)

Got two sets, located The Gap PMed ya

Only if Conrod Straight is in a sealed vacuum! Biggest issue above 250kmh is frontal aero drag. Gnose, lowered with no gaps under car, full undertray,side skirts, effective front splitter etc, and yes you may just see 280! Cochranes Supertaxis do 290, GT3 Porkers do 300 they got aero packages! Bonneville Salt flats USA have had a few Zeds on it, cant recall numbers but very fast. So lets get you entered for FOSC Bathurst 2011 and see how you go???

Worn synchros. After 30 odd years of use they do get a little worn out, especially if you have done a bit of highway use. One question has it been recently "rebuilt" 'cos if the rings are not put back exactly as they came out this could cause it.'The ramp angles on the rings are slightly different front to rear, something like a 4 degree difference in angle, and if installed in wrong place this can cause the synchco to"climb" out of gear instead of "push" or hold in gear. Similar thing can happen when say a box is on "trail" or backed off throttle, it can pop out of gear. Get it pulled apart and renewed, it'll be sweet and last another 30 plus years!!!

Man, I am loving this thread, see it has got you all thinking, which is absolutely fantastic! Diffs, Boxes, ratios, wheel sizes, power. Only thing to raise it's little head is the brick wall of aero and speed, and 260det is right on the money here. We are all running giant windsocks large end in front, even my little dato sports2000 really feels the wind, i know, cos my helmeted head is getting that much buffeting, my neck is sore for a week after, and I know from the gearcalc program that I am doing 240, and lapping at 2 min 43. That place is a real compromise, ie: fifht gear do you go .75 or .83? Tyre size? Diff 3.9/4.1.4.4 I was running a 610 mm diam tyre, and a 4.4 diff .83 fifth, and safe rpm at 7600 maybe 7700, I was in fifth well before hump down Connie, and just over hump on Mountain, it all worked for me! Excepting for Forests, all the important cornere are all UPHILL exits, and the setup should be aimed at this. If you have to ease off throttle down Connie, so be it. BTW i ran same set up 'cept for a 627mm tall tyre for phillip Island two weeks prior Won all four group S races and fastes was a 1.55 ( Bloody Datsuns, grumbles the pommy brigade!!!)

Looks like a stocko ( external) B type Datsun box ( late 260, 240K, early Skyline etc) Shame said Race Mechanic didnt throw some close ratio gears into it at the time, there would have been plenty lying around, ex Holinger too. What's the chaps name, some here may know him? The R32/VL commo/S14 gearsets are overall longer front to back and wont fit into a b type box extension, and fifth gear ratio is fantastic for freeway economy runs! It would seem that it has just had the synchros converted on the second mainshaft gear, is that right? I have a couple of early close ratio 2.9 Z boxes, as well as a couple of Option boxes for sale, all are A type, and am doing some development with the later C type's making em' fit into L bells ( rb/sr conversion), now those are well truly beefed up over the old Datsun boxes! GL with sale

Back on track/topic Update on the Easter Bathurst event, sorry to say but Porsche Cars Australia have taken over the naming rights and are fronting with close to 200 Porkers for the what was supposed to be 6 hour relay for all, that has now become for the rest of us, a bit of a cruise around on the Monday arvo from 1.30 pm till 4.30 pm, and same for Tuesday arvo, and we have paid top dollar for this, it was promoted as a 6hour relay event with teams of all sorts, on the Tuesday and we had all day Monday for practice and set up. As well, the events scheduled for three days of Friday/Saturday and Sunday have now been cut short till 12 noon on Sunday cos the Porkers all want to have a bit of extra practice so they can show their supremacy to all, so that means those that paid the big bucks for THREE days will be cut short, Will you get a refund? fat chance, cos it is very costly to run events for fancy cars, like them. If you were entering the Fri/Sat and Sun, try asking the question "Why arn't I getting the three days you promoted in the supp regs?" Wait till you get the answer to that, I did, and if i persue it, I am liable to be kicked out! If you are entering the Monday/Tuesday, ask the question, " will I get what I was promised in the supp regs, and if it is changed, will I be refunded?" "Trade practices" got quoted to them and they have gotten a bit upset with some entrants in NSW asking similar questions.

But, and there will be a but, if you build a full race motor with forged internals and well clearanced for reduced frictions etc, and little tiny gaps for the black liquid will ooze out quicker, hence you need more vol and pressure, and oil filters that dont have the silly 8psi relief bypass, ( just need to ensure good warm up before giving it a bootfull) My L28 at 290hp at fly is "clearanced" for race, it wont last too long, but that is what I want, same goes for my FJ24 four cylinder, at 295hp at fly. both are stripped/lifed at approx 80 hours. My U20 motor is more criticla it is lifed and stripped at 50 hours race use. Oil and its movement and ability to move in these situations is fairly critical. In fairly normal, with some enhancements done, road going motors, this is nowhere near as critical, but these oil pumps do help heaps.

Man up you are getting a shed. Fill it, if too full, BUILD IT BIGGER eneways I can store your shotgun for a while! Dont think, just do it. Only unregisterd road unusable race cars are real toys, tell her that, I do, and ATM you only have one, you have to keep up with the rest of us now!

Someone from Perth WA should buy this, and keep it away from us here on the Eastern side of Australia PZG302 will be happy then. i dont car, I only race in prod sports/Group S !!

Nah, a hijack should be a help to you, if you want stock volume flow and oil pressure just stick with what you got, ie hot engine, and low flow at idle of just above 10 or so PSI. These are taller in the impeller body, ie more volume, and with a couple of washers behind the spring higher pressure bypass settin, to give slighlty higher pressure into motor. much better! They are standard fitment to USA 280 ZX turbo engines. All L series oil pumps will bolt onto L series engines. You can simply try the washer trick with your stock as fitted now unit, it is the big 21mm? short bolt at the bottom of your oilpump, just undo, and the spring falls out, keep the plunger in there, and place washer(s) say 3 or 4 mm thick inside the hollowed out end of the short bolt, then put spring back in, and bolt up. It is highly recommended that engine NOT be running in this process, otherewise have a video camare running, it is fun to see!!!!! You will notice a slight increase in oil pressure only, ( no better volume) as you have stiffened the relief bypass valve spring tension. This is an very old Stew Wilkins/Datsun rally engine mod!

Galderdi, just make sure that HUUUGE Shovel nose spoiler is well bolted on, at 200 kmh plus! down Conrod, you dont want it to come off, and with that shape, you will get plenty heapd downforce on the front end too. Well done! Lets hope team member Dave Healey gets his ITB 260 Coupe fixed after a slight "off" on the way home from Warwick Sprints last weekend!!!

Warwick had over 100 cars at the HRCC test day on Saturday and 80 cars competing in the Sunday Sprints, plenty of old school muscle cars, Japanese, English, Italian, and Aussie classics too ( sorry no pics, was racing ) The dark blue Datsun 280z got third outright fastest for the day, behind a open wheeler formula 2 car, and a group C Commodore. The car show was the pits area, heaps to see, and no rain. Next one is scheduled for July 24/25, same bat-place, same bat-channell. keep ya's all posted!

If any in Brisbane are chasing one, I have a couple avail. Yes the impeller and stator ( rotating pump parts) are taller, hence more volume, and it was quite common to put small washers say 3 or 4 mm behind the single spring to increase pressure, but keep eye on spring coil surface, they wear thin then break, better option is the double spring arrangement with no washers.